Members MainiacMatt Posted March 18, 2023 Author Members Report Posted March 18, 2023 (edited) Backed off Bobbin tension another 1/4 turn and dialed in top tension firm, but not crazy tight… stitching is much better… top Bottom still shredding thread whenever I back stitch Edited March 18, 2023 by MainiacMatt Quote
Members LeatherLegion Posted March 18, 2023 Members Report Posted March 18, 2023 Can you please post a more clear picture of the tension discs with the thread ran through? Quote
Members shoepatcher Posted March 18, 2023 Members Report Posted March 18, 2023 (edited) Ok change to #19 or #21 needle. Take thread out of machine and check the entire thread path for burrs or slots worn into thread guides. Carefully rethread machine. Take bobbin out and gentle pull on the thread in it so see how much tension is on the bobbin . Check the bobbin tension spring for grooves worn in it. Sew a few trial stiches on scrap and lets see what you got. Once we get it sewing good forward, then we will work on the back stitch. Also, check the hook distance from the new needle and the timing on the hook to the needle. glenn Edited March 18, 2023 by shoepatcher Quote
kgg Posted March 19, 2023 Report Posted March 19, 2023 17 hours ago, MainiacMatt said: I’m pretty sure I’m threading correctly In your very first photo their is blurred image of your main spool which appears to have some form of thread banding around the cone in the center in the center of the spool. Could you please post a photo of the main thread spool and how you have threaded the thread through the thread post guide. Is this a recent problem that started to happen when you changed spools of thread. The thread appears to be a Chinese brand of thread which I have found to create weird problems caused by poor manufacturing. I would also. i) Check all surfaces where the thread passes through or around for sharp edges or grooves and ensure the needle isn't slightly twisted towards the front or back of the machine. ii) Change the needle to a #21 as the thread maybe sized different then what it is labeled as. iii) Change to a Schmetz brand of needle. I have had better success with their needles iv) Change spools of thread as it maybe a bad spool. v) Remove the banding around the center of the spool of thread as this maybe causing inconsistent thread tension. vi) Make sure you have a distance from the top of the spool of thread to the thread stand guide hole that is twice the height of the spool thread kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members MainiacMatt Posted March 19, 2023 Author Members Report Posted March 19, 2023 (edited) Thanks for all the replies.... The spool with the blue painters tape on it is not feeding the machine, I'm just storing it on the thread stand. I purchased the 92 bonded nylon thread off ebay for $7/4oz. spool, so I'm sure I can do better. I used Coats and Clark on the leather cushions I made long ago (not this machine) but I don't think they make anything this heavy. What brands/suppliers are recommended? Prices on Superiorthreads.com are $20/lb. for 92 Bonded Nylon, but no brand name is listed. thethreadexchange.com has Amann and A&E for double that price. Sailrite has Sunstop brand at $20/4oz spool. I have no idea what brands are considered to be better, or who the best retailers are. The only sharp edges I could identify were on the clearance v-cut in the front of the needle bar. So I dusted them with a tiny grinding wheel on a Dremel tool. The gap in the needle bar thread guide has a sharp corner on it, so I fiddled with that and a diamond hone, but managed to break it. I ordered parts on Amazon, but won't see them until Tuesday. So I won't be able to do anything further until then. Edited March 19, 2023 by MainiacMatt Quote
kgg Posted March 20, 2023 Report Posted March 20, 2023 13 hours ago, MainiacMatt said: I have no idea what brands are considered to be better, or who the best retailers are. Personally like the A&E Anefil Thread which is a Bonded Nylon. I have never had problems A&E threads, their threads are made in both the Canada and the US and you can, at least in Canada, buy direct from them. The Sunstop from Sailrite is also an A&E thread a Bonded Polyester. Bonded Nylon is ever so slightly thicker then bonded polyester so the breaking strength of bonded nylon is slightly higher. Bonded Polyester handles UV and bleach exposure better then Bonded Nylon. My experience is the price difference between Brand name threads and the unbranded stuff can be substantial. The main problem is the consistency and quality of the no name threads typically Chinese stuff can be all over the board. Avoid the frustration and spend the extra for a brand name thread. The thread and needle are the inexpensive parts of completing any of your projects so it's better to start off with good quality. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members MainiacMatt Posted March 20, 2023 Author Members Report Posted March 20, 2023 Ordered thread from Superior. We'll see how that goes. Quote
Members Metalhorseman Posted March 23, 2023 Members Report Posted March 23, 2023 (edited) Matt ,, I found a place called “Wawak.com” , they sell all good thread . Amann , A&E , Gutterman.. better prices than most I’ve found..Matt also put your magnifying glasses on and use a headlamp when your looking over all the parts the other guys were saying to look .. They Help me ! This site is Great ! check it out !!! Edited March 23, 2023 by Metalhorseman Quote
Members MainiacMatt Posted April 3, 2023 Author Members Report Posted April 3, 2023 (edited) progress report.... I received the new needle bar thread guides I ordered on Amazon. They are stamped metal and when installed don't center properly on the needle. After wasting a lot of time attempting to bend one to align correctly, I went back to the OEM part which I had damaged. This appears to be a MIM (metal injection molded) piece and it's much harder and precisely shaped. That explains why it snapped when I held it in pliars attempting to file a sharp edge off at the gap. I reinstalled the OEM part and found it would still guide the thread under most circumstances, so I'll continue with it until I can find a source for a OEM replacement. I received a spool of 92 weight thread from Superior and was able to get the tensions dialed in to get a good (centered) stitch on two layers of 4 oz. chrome tan (both with the original ebay thread and the new Superior thread). I sped up, did tight curves, and didn't break the thread. The top thread (regardless of brand) breaks when I attempt to back tack with the reverse lever. The top thread (regardless of brand) breaks when I attempt to sew four layers of my leather. After several hours of fussing around, I got frustrated and called it a day. My conclusions: It's not the thread It's not the tension settings It's not sharp or burred edges (at least not above the deck) The only adjustments I haven't checked above the deck are the thread control spring range and tension, the presser foot height, and the presser foot movement distance. I suspect the problem is being caused below the deck. My hook timing appears to be spot on and the clearance between the hook and the needle at the scarf is with one sheet of paper ( ~.003" to .004"), where .02mm to .1mm ( or .0007: to .004") is the spec. I have yet to look at the thread release finger clearance. Edited April 3, 2023 by MainiacMatt Quote
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