Sewing machine suggestions

[Spicytacoman]

So with that being said I can get the 1206rb-1 for $1550 shipped. Would there be any other recommendations or this is as good as im going to get for what I can spend right now?

 

New that is. I dont think I want to go used and end up with something I font know how to fix just yet and have to waste time learning instead of stitching right away after assembly.

[kgg]

43 minutes ago, Spicytacoman said:

So with that being said I can get the 1206rb-1 for $1550 shipped. Would there be any other recommendations or this is as good as im going to get for what I can spend right now?

I would suggest you reconsider the Consew 206RB-5 rather then the 1206rb-1. The reason I am suggesting this is the 206RB-5 has a safety clutch system so when you jam up the hook/ shuttle you don't cause damage to internal parts. I think most people have at some point jammed a machine up. With a safety clutch you clear the jam, reset the clutch and you are back sewing. One simple jam on a machine without a safety clutch could and probably will cost you more then what you are saving on the initial price.

Don't buy a machine based on price alone. Buy the best machine for what you are planning on sewing. There is nothing worst then buying a machine, irregardless of price, that is not capable of doing what you want. Once you buy a machine you are typically stuck with it. I think most of us have been down that road. Those machines are soon replaced usually at a dollar loss.

kgg

 

 

[Spicytacoman]

4 hours ago, kgg said:

I would suggest you reconsider the Consew 206RB-5 rather then the 1206rb-1. The reason I am suggesting this is the 206RB-5 has a safety clutch system so when you jam up the hook/ shuttle you don't cause damage to internal parts. I think most people have at some point jammed a machine up. With a safety clutch you clear the jam, reset the clutch and you are back sewing. One simple jam on a machine without a safety clutch could and probably will cost you more then what you are saving on the initial price.

Don't buy a machine based on price alone. Buy the best machine for what you are planning on sewing. There is nothing worst then buying a machine, irregardless of price, that is not capable of doing what you want. Once you buy a machine you are typically stuck with it. I think most of us have been down that road. Those machines are soon replaced usually at a dollar loss.

kgg

 

 

Hey man, I appreciate your knowledge but you also need to consider that not everyone want or likes the idea of spending $2000 on a sewing machine especially when it might now pay off for them, I appreciate your feedback but you comment really isn't aligning with what "I" need. 

I'm already at a point where i don't want to spend this money and I'm being suggested things over my budget. It is really unsettling. and I get it but it isn't helping my situation.

Do you think that medium temper chrome tan at 14 oz is going to cause a jam? I don't sew veg tan that thick at the moment either.. I'm just curious. I'm an audiophile and have been down many rabbit holes of the next best but I've also tested things for less price that I would reconsider my opinion on things and would really like not to just splurge because a certain machine has so much headroom you can't mess up.

I also spoke with a couple repair shops that said the safety clutch can be a pain as it isn't so simple to reset after it engages and a lot of customers opt to take it out. Have you heard anything on that?

 

Edited April 14, 2023 by Spicytacoman

[AlZilla]

I've been following this and appreciate your situation. I understand completely the cash out of pocket situation and not wanting to buy a used machine. I've been quiet because the sewing machine sages here have all the information you need and I'm a rank amateur.

That said, I think you'll regret going with a flatbed over a cylinder arm. Maybe consider a Cowboy Outllaw. Manual and not as sexy as some of the other options, but it fits your budget and sews the size thread you need.  Maybe those totes and clutches could be a little thin, you'd have to investigate.

[Spicytacoman]

1 hour ago, AlZilla said:

I've been following this and appreciate your situation. I understand completely the cash out of pocket situation and not wanting to buy a used machine. I've been quiet because the sewing machine sages here have all the information you need and I'm a rank amateur.

That said, I think you'll regret going with a flatbed over a cylinder arm. Maybe consider a Cowboy Outllaw. Manual and not as sexy as some of the other options, but it fits your budget and sews the size thread you need.  Maybe those totes and clutches could be a little thin, you'd have to investigate.

I appreciate it. I want suggestions and if I can have a machine for my budget I'd rather someone say "hey you're not going to be happy with a machine for your work because xyz..." we can always spend more money but I find it really hard to believe I have to spend 2k... When I first started looking I was considering the Janome 3500h because everyone said it was an actual heavy duty as opposed to the singer/brothers. But I know that wasn't enough because the motor will give like my last Brother machine I paid $250 for.. live and learn.
 

But is the gap from $350 realistically $2000? I had a Chinese shoe patcher for about a week before I sent it back, Kept getting out of time and left mark all over the leather even after I sanded the foot down and it was supposed to be for shoes! Maybe my expectations are just unrealistic?

I want to do more without feeling like I have to work for $10/hr hand sewing to compete and keep doing what I enjoy. I love making leather stuff but the time on labor is really hitting me. 

[Wizcrafts]

On 4/11/2023 at 7:20 PM, Spicytacoman said:

Looking for recommendations for best bang for the buck under $1500. Im currently making leather goods no thicker than 1/4 mostly wallets at 3/16-1/4. Making totes and clutches not nearly as thick. 

I am currently looking at the consew 206rb-5 and the consew 1206rb-1.

Leaning towards the 1206rb-1 since it is cheaper and has the servo motor already. This is my first "real" sewing machine and going without the servo may be too fast for me.

Also, if there are any recommendations that are cheaper that are highly recommended for my work criteria I would be happy to take a look too!.

Please no recommendations over $1500 that is almost uncomfortable already for me

 

I think the P-1206RB will work for you. I have a room full of sewing machines, but only 2 have safety clutches. I do get thread jams from time to time and stop as soon as I sense that something sounds or feels wrong. I cut the threads from the project, then fish the top thread out of the shuttle. Then I resume and am more careful about holding the top thread AND bottom thread back. BUT, sometimes that's not possible. If I can't hold back the bottom thread, I at least push it back so it is out of the way of the needle on the first few stitches. Holding back the starting threads AND not crossing over a loose bottom thread goes a long way to avoiding a thread jam.

If you can't afford a new walking foot machine, look for a good used machine in local ads. If there is an upholstery shop nearby, ask them if they have a used walking foot machine for sale. I did that during the Covid shutdown, when my machines were locked up in a building that hosted our shop. But, I had customers wanting things sewn despite the stay home order. Rather than try to get together with the owner's husband multiple times, I asked a boat upholstery shop about used machines and he just happened to have a used, but not abused Singer 211G156, which has reverse. I took it home to sew at home for customers who still needed work done. It later ended up in the shop and routinely sews thick leather jackets and chaps that need zippers, or things needing hemming, where reverse is handy to lock in the stitches without spinning the work around 180 degrees ("Poor Man's Reverse"). I paid $800 cash for it, with its clutch motor. Later, I upgraded to a servo motor and am perfectly happy with it. I use #69, 92 or 138 thread, top and bottom, according the the thickness and forces trying to pull the layers apart.

That $800 used machine was probably worth $2000 or more when new.

[Spicytacoman]

@Wizcrafts

I seen a guy post a 206rb5 on facebook marketplace an hour away from me for $900 5 hours ago. I messaged him hopefully I can get it. Anything I should look for when inspecting it?

Edited April 15, 2023 by Spicytacoman

[Wizcrafts]

14 hours ago, Spicytacoman said:

@Wizcrafts

I seen a guy post a 206rb5 on facebook marketplace an hour away from me for $900 5 hours ago. I messaged him hopefully I can get it. Anything I should look for when inspecting it?

Just ask the seller if they can show you that it sews These are solid machines. It would be wonderful if he could give you some pointers to get you going. Ask if he has some thread and needles for it and some extra bobbins and some oil. This is the machine you were after! If you turn the hand wheel, always turn it towards you from the top, in a counterclockwise direction. Doing so while holding onto the top and bottom thread should result in the top thread picking up the bobbin thread and overlapping it. If there is material under the feet, a stitch should be formed. If it can be plugged in, ask to see it in action. If it has a servo motor you won't have as long of a learning curve to control the speed.

A complete machine and table will have an unwarped table mounted on a steel K-Legs frame. There will be a motor hanging down and a rod connecting the control arm to a foot pedal. There will be another smaller pedal that lifts the feet, which releases the top thread tension. There should be a drawer with accessories. On top there should be a bobbin winder, unless there is one built into the machine head. Also, there should be a thread stand with platforms for 2 or 4 spools of thread and some kind of flexible work light. There should be a switch box under the right front end of the table to turn the motor on and off. It'll probably have pushbuttons, or a rocker switch. Make sure the power and motor all work.

Good luck in advance!

[chrisash]

Industrial machines are built for heavy use, and few have problems that cannot be repaired by the home user with assistance for YouTube posts like Uwe, so why not consider a used model, you can always send your one leather for them to send back stitched to prove as much as possible that they work 100%, all my machines were brought of eBay and no problems, after all many cars are brought secondhand with no problems at far higher cost

The second point is that hand sewn means nothing to the average person unless you explain that the two threads are independent of each other and if one breaks- gets worn or cut the item is still usable, Don't assume the potential customer understand what is common knowledge to experts, they need to be told fully in your marketing and sales

[Handstitched]

1 hour ago, chrisash said:

The second point is that hand sewn means nothing to the average person unless you explain that the two threads are independent of each other and if one breaks- gets worn or cut the item is still usable, Don't assume the potential customer understand what is common knowledge to experts, they need to be told fully in your marketing and sales

This is a discussion that we've all  had before, but you're absolutely  right . I won't go any further as it will very quickly go off topic     

@Spicytacoman  good luck finding your ideal machine . Its not an easy choice . 

HS