Thread size for wallet interiors

[Fraulein]

What size thread is everybody using for wallet interiors? The smallest I have on hand is 138 so that's what I've always used, but it looks/feels pretty bulky to me, so I'm getting ready to buy a smaller size and wanted to know what everybody else is using.

[MtlBiker]

29 minutes ago, Fraulein said:

What size thread is everybody using for wallet interiors? The smallest I have on hand is 138 so that's what I've always used, but it looks/feels pretty bulky to me, so I'm getting ready to buy a smaller size and wanted to know what everybody else is using.

Part of the decision will be personal taste... what look are you after.  Also depends on what material you're sewing... is the interior leather or something else?  Will there be a different stitch/thread to attach the interior to the exterior?  I think the answer to your question is that you need to try small samples of stitching with different threads and find out what you like.  Your post sort of sounds like the only thread you have is 138... if so, I find it surprising.  I most often use v92, but keep on hand v138 and even v69 for when needed.  And anything less than v69, I switch to one of my domestic machines.  Picking the right thread and machine for what is needed, plus what I like.

I don't know if you've heard the expression... "If all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail."  If all you have is 138, you certainly can use it, but it would probably be wiser to make tests on your material with v69 and v92 also.

Show us your wallets when you're done!

 

[JLSleather]

I have used 42, 69.  

[PeterinID]

I use 69 for interiors and 138 for sewing back to interior

[Dwight]

I recently bought a Singer 6800C heavy duty sewing machine that will sew a total of about 9 oz leather . . . maybe not quite that much.

But it really likes this thread . .  . will sew up to 6 SPI  . . . and I don't know one man alive who can rip these stitches.

I've sewn down to about 10 maybe 12 SPI with it . . . all sorts of colors . . . sews as easy as regular thread used for curtains and dresses.

I really like it.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Burkhardt]

I kind of go by the hide the knot measure. It looks a little off depending what you're going to sew the exterior with. I have been using 92 on the interior and 207 on the exterior. Ideally it would be nice to have only one size difference between the interior and exterior thread but depending on the thickness to hide the knot can dictate that. I just ordered 138 last night to use for exteriors because the overall thickness was getting borderline on hiding the 207. Having matching colored thread can hide the size difference better than a contrasting thread will look.

[MtlBiker]

9 hours ago, Dwight said:

I recently bought a Singer 6800C heavy duty sewing machine that will sew a total of about 9 oz leather . . . maybe not quite that much.

But it really likes this thread . .  . will sew up to 6 SPI  . . . and I don't know one man alive who can rip these stitches.

I've sewn down to about 10 maybe 12 SPI with it . . . all sorts of colors . . . sews as easy as regular thread used for curtains and dresses.

I really like it.

May God bless,

Dwight

Just FYI, that's TEX70 (v69) thread.  I've used it when I just needed a really small bit of a color.  Otherwise I use bonded polyester, usually v92.

 

[Fraulein]

15 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

Part of the decision will be personal taste... what look are you after.  Also depends on what material you're sewing... is the interior leather or something else?  Will there be a different stitch/thread to attach the interior to the exterior?  I think the answer to your question is that you need to try small samples of stitching with different threads and find out what you like.  Your post sort of sounds like the only thread you have is 138... if so, I find it surprising.  I most often use v92, but keep on hand v138 and even v69 for when needed.  And anything less than v69, I switch to one of my domestic machines.  Picking the right thread and machine for what is needed, plus what I like.

I don't know if you've heard the expression... "If all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail."  If all you have is 138, you certainly can use it, but it would probably be wiser to make tests on your material with v69 and v92 also.

Show us your wallets when you're done!

 

Thanks for the detailed answer. Get ready to be surprised, but the smallest thread I have is 138 (I do have bigger sizes too) as most of my projects to date have been heavier duty items, and it has been O.K. for very simple interiors with not much stitching to them, but I've started to try some more detailed interiors and realized that 138 is just too big for it. That's why I posted here to see what everybody else was using before I go buying. 

14 hours ago, JLSleather said:

I have used 42, 69.  

 

14 hours ago, PeterinID said:

I use 69 for interiors and 138 for sewing back to interior

 

10 hours ago, Dwight said:

I recently bought a Singer 6800C heavy duty sewing machine that will sew a total of about 9 oz leather . . . maybe not quite that much.

But it really likes this thread . .  . will sew up to 6 SPI  . . . and I don't know one man alive who can rip these stitches.

I've sewn down to about 10 maybe 12 SPI with it . . . all sorts of colors . . . sews as easy as regular thread used for curtains and dresses.

I really like it.

May God bless,

Dwight

 

10 hours ago, Burkhardt said:

I kind of go by the hide the knot measure. It looks a little off depending what you're going to sew the exterior with. I have been using 92 on the interior and 207 on the exterior. Ideally it would be nice to have only one size difference between the interior and exterior thread but depending on the thickness to hide the knot can dictate that. I just ordered 138 last night to use for exteriors because the overall thickness was getting borderline on hiding the 207. Having matching colored thread can hide the size difference better than a contrasting thread will look.

Thanks so much for the replies everybody! Really appreciate everybody sharing their methods! Helps a lot to know what everyone else is using when figuring out what I want to use

[MtlBiker]

@Fraulein - You are sewing with a machine, right?  If so, and you say the smallest thread you use is 138 and that you have larger threads, it must be quite a beast of a machine you have.  You may have trouble using a thinner thread in such a machine.  Or do you have other machines available?

[Fraulein]

 

7 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

@Fraulein - You are sewing with a machine, right?  If so, and you say the smallest thread you use is 138 and that you have larger threads, it must be quite a beast of a machine you have.  You may have trouble using a thinner thread in such a machine.  Or do you have other ma

I've got a cobra class 26, which is supposed to be able to handle thread from 277(only on the top strand) all the way down to 69.

[Fraulein]

On 4/19/2023 at 5:29 PM, MtlBiker said:

Show us your wallets when you're done!

Just finished this, the wallet I was working on when I started to have issues with the 138 thread. Went ahead and finished it with 138 because I was on an extreme time crunch to get it done. I appreciate everybody's replies so I can do better on my next ones!

Edited April 24, 2023 by Fraulein

[Wild Bill46]

Nifty, nifty, nifty.   I like the mexican braid and stitching to macth as yours does.

However I think your right, it does seem a bit heavy or clunky, and # 69 or smaller would bring the interior to a visual triumph.

No other contridictions or critique necessary , in short, I like your project !

[Fraulein]

2 hours ago, Wild Bill46 said:

Nifty, nifty, nifty.   I like the mexican braid and stitching to macth as yours does.

However I think your right, it does seem a bit heavy or clunky, and # 69 or smaller would bring the interior to a visual triumph.

No other contridictions or critique necessary , in short, I like your project !

Thanks! Much appreciated!

[DonInReno]

I like the look of heavier thread so 138 doesn’t bother me on functional items.   For someone else I’d probably drop to 92.    You will find a wide variation in thread thicknesses between brands - it seems most higher quality thread is a bit thicker and keeps its roundness, while some less expensive 138 won’t be much thicker than 92.

[JLSleather]

Think these were both done with 69 thread.  I stopped short of the edges so i could use slightly heavier thread to attach to the wallet back.  The clutch wallet liner was sewn together with 69 thread prior to assembly with calf lacing.

 

[JLSleather]

maybe its just the angle? Or maybe a splice?  Your lacing looks quite nice, good n tight, but was wonderin' bout this bit?

Edited April 27, 2023 by Northmount
Removed political pic

[Fraulein]

15 hours ago, JLSleather said:

maybe its just the angle? Or maybe a splice?  Your lacing looks quite nice, good n tight, but was wonderin' bout this bit?

Good eye! I spotted that right after I finished it and I was on such a time crunch I couldn't fix it. It's gonna haunt me for the rest of my life 

Beautiful clutch you did! Thanks for posting! Helps to actually see what different sizes look like on a project

[Fraulein]

3 hours ago, DonInReno said:

I like the look of heavier thread so 138 doesn’t bother me on functional items.   For someone else I’d probably drop to 92.    You will find a wide variation in thread thicknesses between brands - it seems most higher quality thread is a bit thicker and keeps its roundness, while some less expensive 138 won’t be much thicker than 92.

Thanks for the input! I agree with you I like the look of 138 too, but it's starts to get in the way when I do detailed interiors 

[Wizcrafts]

Make sure you stock up on needles in sizes 18, 19 and 20 for use with thread sizes 69 and 92. The #20 won't get as much use, but may come in handy if the leather is really tough, or is deflecting the needle.

[Wyowally]

I use that Coats thread that was posted with a price earlier. That's about twice or more what I pay, BTW. $3.79 a spool if I buy 3.

[Fraulein]

8 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Make sure you stock up on needles in sizes 18, 19 and 20 for use with thread sizes 69 and 92. The #20 won't get as much use, but may come in handy if the leather is really tough, or is deflecting the needle.

Good point about the needles! (Pun intended) Thank you!

56 minutes ago, Wyowally said:

I use that Coats thread that was posted with a price earlier. That's about twice or more what I pay, BTW. $3.79 a spool if I buy 3.

Thanks for the tip! I appreciate it!