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I’ve switched to Fiebings oil based pro dye and I am having trouble with Fiebings Pro resist. I’m using it on undyed vegitan and the resist is not resisting the dye, it’s absorbing it?

What  am I doing wrong?

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I may be wrong but resist is used to resist antique from getting into the dyed parts of your work. dye is usually put on before the resist. Don Gonzales and Joe Meling have videos of how to use resist. Hope this helps.

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8 minutes ago, Hags said:

I may be wrong but resist is used to resist antique from getting into the dyed parts of your work. dye is usually put on before the resist. Don Gonzales and Joe Meling have videos of how to use resist. Hope this helps.

Thanks! I had successfully used the resist with acrylic dyes, but I got tired of the inconsistency of acrylic dyes and the inconsistency of the availability of them as well. 

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5 hours ago, hylander said:

Thanks! I had successfully used the resist with acrylic dyes, but I got tired of the inconsistency of acrylic dyes and the inconsistency of the availability of them as well. 

Yes, acrylic dye is like paint.  and resist is usually acrylic, so it would work with that.  Pro dyes are alcohol/solvent based, and would tend to penetrate the acrylic resist pretty easily.  There is a paint on/peel off type resist for dye, but I've never used it.  Search this site you might find some info on it including the name.

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21 hours ago, hylander said:

Thanks! I had successfully used the resist with acrylic dyes, but I got tired of the inconsistency of acrylic dyes and the inconsistency of the availability of them as well. 

I've never heard of 'acrylic dye'. Acrylics are paint. Paint is not meant to be used with resist.
Resist CAN and IS used to block both Fiebings dye and Pro dye. Do a search in the DYE section of the differences and you'll get a bunch of info on it.
I use resist all the time. I don't the the Fiebings resist, but I've used both Resolene and Acrylic floor as resists successfully. Now, if you are applying your dye with a dauber, sponge or other wipe-on method, it usually works well. With dip dye methods, results are not as pronounced as a rule, because the immersion in the vat of dye saturates it. Also, if you do a wipe of the item after dipping, you an get smear in all directions, as you will be rubbing the dye onto the resist aggresively and resist onto the dye..
I do most of my stuff via dip, and if I need to remove some dye, I blot it off with a cotton cloth, quickly.
Just understand that the blocking effect can be suble.
Is you want a total blockout, the only thing that I've found is a liquid Latex that you have to paint on. It's a little pricey unless you will use it a lot, and it stinks like ammonia.
Good luck
 

100_3211.JPG

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I had to do some googling to look up what an acrylic dye is.  "What is acrylic leather dye?   Fiebing's Acrylic Dye is a long lasting, strongly covering leather paint for redyeing already dyed leathers. It allows you to dye dark leathers a lighter shade. It can also be used for painting patterns on smooth leather.     I think that since its closer to a paint, its sitting more on the surface of the leather which is why a resist might have stronger results, than when you are using oil based dyes..  

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Tandy Eco-Flo dyes are acrylic based leather dyes, which I had used for several years. But the quality and availability has declined so I moved the the Fiebings, which are much better dyes overall. The pic is an example of the Eco-Flo dye over the resist painted over the tooled Lion Rampant. 

 

 

 

IMG_3291.thumb.jpeg.b707261a446f83d1eb46ab96ac5e1019.jpeg

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10 hours ago, hylander said:

Tandy Eco-Flo dye

Water based is a better description than acrylic.  The resist is able to block water based dyes (and of course acrylic paints).  The solvents in pro dyes and other alcohol based dissolve the resist.  I have found they even penetrate lacquer based finishes to some extent.

From Tandy's site:

Eco-Flo Leather Dye is a water based, low V.O.C., penetrating leather dye for use on natural veg-tanned tooling leather. It's great for overall solid color dyeing or background dyeing.

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So I guess the answer is there is no good resist to the Fiebings Pro dyes. 

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12 minutes ago, hylander said:

So I guess the answer is there is no good resist to the Fiebings Pro dyes. 

No, The liquid latex that I mentioned will block all of the dyes. You may need a coat or two, but it will work.
One caveat is that if you are using it on things like stamps letter, such as in my photo, you need to make sure that it gets down into the grooves around the stamping.
I haven't used these brands and my local store no longer carries the one I used, but either these or similar ones should work.
Just do some research and experiments would tell you.

https://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/HX-LIQUID FRISKET.pdf

https://www.michaels.com/product/lq-acry-maskng-fluid-118mlus-10648713?cm_mmc=PLASearch-_-google-_-MICH_Shopping_US_N_Art+Supplies_N_PMAX_BOPIS_N-_-&Kenshoo_ida=&kpid=go_cmp-18514199888_adg-_ad-__dev-c_ext-_prd-10648713&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr82iBhCuARIsAO0EAZwjrxgSAiYqkkbRnIc14WS2qm2aH5Uq3lDSGbgKO9aNLxDJD4Q0xroaAvjSEALw_wcB
 

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Thanks Tom! I’ve used both of those for other art projects, I didn’t think about using those on leather.  I’ll try these out.

Edited by hylander

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@TomG does it prevent bleeding of Eco-flo dyes as well? I can find a color that I want only in Eco-FLo but it bleeds heavily the moment it comes in contact with water. Still trying on scrap, luckily. If not, will have to compromise and move to something else. 

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3 minutes ago, SUP said:

@TomG does it prevent bleeding of Eco-flo dyes as well? I can find a color that I want only in Eco-FLo but it bleeds heavily the moment it comes in contact with water. Still trying on scrap, luckily. If not, will have to compromise and move to something else. 

I really don't know. I have only used Eco-Flo once, that I can recall, and it was not on an item that I needed anything blocked out. But, considering that it is basically a rubber coating, I would assume that it would.
Now, I only used it on stamped lettering and can tell you that you do need to get it down into the depressions around the letters. Otherwise, the dye can seep in at the edges and stain the letters. It IS tedious on longer lettering strings.

 

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@TomGEco-flo bleeds so easily, I think I will just compromise on the color and try something else.

Thank you. It saves me continuous trials when I have a million other things to learn about leatherworking.

Edited by SUP

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