Quality of Blanchard Pricking Irons and Beginner Purchase List

[frankly]

I've spent the last week researching everything I could find to inform what I should purchase for my foray into leathercrafting. One consistent piece of advice is to buy quality irons and to purchase the best you can afford. While I would like to follow this advice, I would also like to be pragmatic about where my money is spent. Do Blanchard pricking irons perform better, last longer, etc than other options such as the ones sold by Rocky Mountain? I am having a hard time finding any reliable reviews and am getting different opinions from other communities. What are your thoughts on Blanchard irons?

I would also really appreciate any feedback you have on the preliminary list of items I plan to purchase for my kit. I plan on making mostly medium sized goods (bags, totes, boxes) working with 4oz-11oz leathers. Are there things I am overlooking? Are there other brands I should consider versus what is on my list? Am I spending too much on this kit before even having made my first stitch or cut? Any general advice or words of wisdom would also be greatly appreciated.

I decided to leave off adding a stitch groover, a skiver, and punches to my list for now as I don't see an immediate use for those tools. I have also left off burnishing compounds and thread until I can get some practice with material that I already have on hand. I do need a stitching pony but am having a hard time narrowing down the many options so any recommendations here would be helpful.

Blanchard #7 (3.85mm) - 02 Pricking Iron

Blanchard #7 (3.85mm) - 05 Pricking Iron

Blanchard #10 (2.7mm) - 02 Pricking Iron

Blanchard #10 (2.7mm) - 05 Pricking Iron

Blanchard Scratch Compass No 8

Palosanto Edge Beveler Set (0.4mm - 1.5mm)

Jerome David 2mm awl

Jerome David 2.5mm awl

C.S. Osborne Scratch Awl 2pack

Barry King  24oz Tapered Maul

Alvin 24"x36" Cutting Mat

SDI Utility Knife

SDI Replacement Blades (100ct)

Vinca Carpenter L Frame Steel Square 8"x12"

Vinca Carpenter L Frame Steel Square 16"x24"

Barge Cement

Glue Applicator / Spreader

Wutu Edge Burnisher / Slicker

John James Saddlers Harness Needles

[chuck123wapati]

You are buying the best of the best in brand names my friend you can get just as good much cheaper. Sorry but paying 140 bucks to punch a  hole in leather is just dumb when there are plenty of good alternatives so I guess my answer is no they don't perform better that cheaper alternatives. I will say i have never used a Blanchard but i will also say i have never needed one my cheaper ones are fine. I use craft tool pro series diamond chisels and they work well for what they do.

if your making bags totes and boxes you will need punches. The punches are for cutting  inside corners, Card slot ends, strap slots and such.   As well you will need a stitching clam or all that hand sewing will be really sucky to do. You might also get rivets or snaps and a setter.

Strap cutting tool is also helpful. 

[frankly]

4 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

You are buying the best of the best in brand names my friend you can get just as good much cheaper. Sorry but paying 140 bucks to punch a  hole in leather is just dumb when there are plenty of good alternatives so I guess my answer is no they don't perform better that cheaper alternatives. I will say i have never used a Blanchard but i will also say i have never needed one my cheaper ones are fine. I use craft tool pro series diamond chisels and they work well for what they do.

if your making bags totes and boxes you will need punches. The punches are for cutting  inside corners, Card slot ends, strap slots and such.   As well you will need a stitching clam or all that hand sewing will be really sucky to do. You might also get rivets or snaps and a setter.

Strap cutting tool is also helpful. 

Thanks Chuck! I would love to save some money on the irons. What are other notable brands of Euro style irons? Blanchard and Amy Roke are the only two I have come across with good reviews.

And good call on the punches, rivets, setters, and strap cutter. I do know I will need those down the road but I am holding off on purchasing punches until I can get some practice in and template out the projects that will need them. I'll make sure these items are on my list for the future.

On the stitching clam, I am in the process of searching for one to add to my list. Any recommendations?

 

[Northmount]

1 hour ago, frankly said:

consistent piece of advice is to buy quality irons and to purchase the best you can afford

 

[SUP]

You and some others might not agree with what I have to say but I will say it anyway. 

You say you have not even cut a piece of leather or stitched a single stitch. Then how do you know you will like leatherworking  or enjoy it enough to keep at it consistently?

I know people say 'Buy the best you can afford" but that, to me, is only once one is sure of of staying in leatherworking and knowing what one will be making. 

I would suggest, get a simple leatherworking kit from Amazon. Should be no more than $100.00 or so. They usually have everything you need to make things like bags and boxes. Get some not too expensive leather from Tandy or elsewhere. Work with both. Wanting to make specific items is one thing; enjoying it enough to keep at it consistently is quite another. Once you are sure of your interest and direction of interest, look for and purchase the 'best' tools. 

By then, you will also have an idea of what you need - some of the items in the kits are fine. Others will need to be replaced. A tool does not have to have a high end name attached to be of good quality. Not today, with so many players in the manufacturing field. You will then look for the specific items you actually need rather than what you think you need.

Just a suggestion. 

 

 

Edited May 9, 2023 by SUP

[dikman]

I agree with SUP. While the quality of some of the bits in those kits may not be "first grade" they will be more than adequate to start with. As you get a feel for leatherwork and a better understanding of what's involved you will also learn which tools need to be upgraded. I still use cheap punches off ebay (I have better ones but the cheapies still work) and a set of cheap stamps as well as better quality ones. I bought one of those cheap wooden strap cutters and it works fine, same with strap-end cutters, they're pretty rough in their finish but they cut just fine.

Mauls I made myself, stitching pony I made myself and as for knives - I have a somewhat eclectic assortment including re-shaped kitchen knives! If money is no object then by all means buy the items you have listed (there's something to be said for owning quality equipment) but few can do that and usually start off on the cheap end of the scale.

[frankly]

1 hour ago, Northmount said:

Thank you! I may switch to Amy Rokes. 

41 minutes ago, SUP said:

You and some others might not agree with what I have to say but I will say it anyway. 

You say you have not even cut a piece of leather or stitched a single stitch. Then how do you know you will like leatherworking  or enjoy it enough to keep at it consistently?

I know people say 'Buy the best you can afford" but that, to me, is only once one is sure of of staying in leatherworking and knowing what one will be making. 

I would suggest, get a simple leatherworking kit from Amazon. Should be no more than $100.00 or so. They usually have everything you need to make things like bags and boxes. Get some not too expensive leather from Tandy or elsewhere. Work with both. Wanting to make specific items is one thing; enjoying it enough to keep at it consistently is quite another. Once you are sure of your interest and direction of interest, look for and purchase the 'best' tools. 

By then, you will also have an idea of what you need - some of the items in the kits are fine. Others will need to be replaced. A tool does not have to have a high end name attached to be of good quality. Not today, with so many players in the manufacturing field. You will then look for the specific items you actually need rather than what you think you need.

Just a suggestion. 

 

 

This is relevant and sound advice. Remaining consistent in the hobby is certainly something I've thought long and hard about with this level of investment. It would be arrogant of me to say that I for sure would remain consistent without having practiced it at all so I have to concede that there is a chance passions would dwindle over time. My justification for spending more to start (besides the obvious benefits of efficacy) is that more recognized brands would also be easier to sell in order to recuperate my investment if I do end up deciding to leave the hobby. Now, I may be wrong in this assumption, but that was the justification I made to myself. 

I will continue to think on what you've said and consider it before I make these purchases. Thank you!

 

[mike02130]

2 hours ago, frankly said:

Blanchard #7 (3.85mm) - 02 Pricking Iron

Blanchard #7 (3.85mm) - 05 Pricking Iron

Blanchard #10 (2.7mm) - 02 Pricking Iron

Blanchard #10 (2.7mm) - 05 Pricking Iron

Blanchard Scratch Compass No 8

Palosanto Edge Beveler Set (0.4mm - 1.5mm)

Jerome David 2mm awl

Jerome David 2.5mm awl

C.S. Osborne Scratch Awl 2pack

Barry King  24oz Tapered Maul

Alvin 24"x36" Cutting Mat

SDI Utility Knife

SDI Replacement Blades (100ct)

Vinca Carpenter L Frame Steel Square 8"x12"

Vinca Carpenter L Frame Steel Square 16"x24"

Barge Cement

Glue Applicator / Spreader

Wutu Edge Burnisher / Slicker

John James Saddlers Harness Needles

I'd say that you're putting the cart before the horse--especially if you've never made anything yet.  Blanchard's are a bit old fashioned and they are "pricking irons" and not as good as they used to be.  They are used to prick, or mark the stitching holes which need to be followed up with an awl to complete the hole.  Now days, irons are a hybrid design where as they mark and punch the holes all in one shot.  With thicker leather you may also need an awl to finish the hole.  I don't know if there's any agreed upon nomenclature regarding irons/chisels but here's my short take on them.  "Stitching chisels" or better known as Japanese diamond chisels are diamond shape and make a larger diamond shaped hole than the typical "French stitching irons", which are thinner with flat teeth set at a 45 degree angle.  The latter are most commonly used for finer leather goods and thinner threads.  Both of these types are used to make the holes through the leather.  I like and own KS Blades' irons.  Sinabroks, Crimson Hides and Kevin Lee are some good brands to look at.  I've heard good things about the Rocky Mountain ones.  I use 2.7s for watch straps, 3.0 for wallets and card holders and 3.38s for purses.  For the occasional large bag I'll use 3.85s.  You say you want to make "medium sized goods" so the 3.85s may be right for you.  If you're going to make wallets, too, then maybe the 3.38s would be a better choice for both goods(?).   Personally I dig nice tools and have a hole in my wallet to prove it.  I wasted money in the beginning buying crap I thought I needed but never used.  Pull back on the reins and figure things out before you go broke.

Palosanto makes fine edge bevelers but so does Barry King and Ron's tools.  For medium goods you most likely only need one--maybe 2 rather than a set of 4.  A Barry King 24oz tapered maul is an excellent choice.  Match the awl size to the irons.  I use a Palosanto flat awl.  Alvin makes a damn good cutting mat.  You could go with Weldwood contact cement rather than Barge, it's cheaper and sold at any hardware store.  John James 004 needles work well.  For a few bucks you can make your own stitching pony.

My recommendation first-off is to buy an inexpensive set of diamond chisels, a wing divider and cheap mallet, a utility knife and glue and needles and thread.  Get some leather and make something first before investing in fancy tools.  The Amazon kits are tempting but I think there's just too much filler crap in them that you may never use.  The first thing you need to learn is how to  saddle stitch using your new pony that you made yourself.  Good luck, have fun and spend wisely.

 

[frankly]

4 minutes ago, mike02130 said:

I'd say that you're putting the cart before the horse--especially if you've never made anything yet.  Blanchard's are a bit old fashioned and they are "pricking irons" and not as good as they used to be.  They are used to prick, or mark the stitching holes which need to be followed up with an awl to complete the hole.  Now days, irons are a hybrid design where as they mark and punch the holes all in one shot.  With thicker leather you may also need an awl to finish the hole.  I don't know if there's any agreed upon nomenclature regarding irons/chisels but here's my short take on them.  "Stitching chisels" or better known as Japanese diamond chisels are diamond shape and make a larger diamond shaped hole than the typical "French stitching irons", which are thinner with flat teeth set at a 45 degree angle.  The latter are most commonly used for finer leather goods and thinner threads.  Both of these types are used to make the holes through the leather.  I like and own KS Blades' irons.  Sinabroks, Crimson Hides and Kevin Lee are some good brands to look at.  I've heard good things about the Rocky Mountain ones.  I use 2.7s for watch straps, 3.0 for wallets and card holders and 3.38s for purses.  For the occasional large bag I'll use 3.85s.  You say you want to make "medium sized goods" so the 3.85s may be right for you.  If you're going to make wallets, too, then maybe the 3.38s would be a better choice for both goods(?).   Personally I dig nice tools and have a hole in my wallet to prove it.  I wasted money in the beginning buying crap I thought I needed but never used.  Pull back on the reins and figure things out before you go broke.

Palosanto makes fine edge bevelers but so does Barry King and Ron's tools.  For medium goods you most likely only need one--maybe 2 rather than a set of 4.  A Barry King 24oz tapered maul is an excellent choice.  Match the awl size to the irons.  I use a Palosanto flat awl.  Alvin makes a damn good cutting mat.  You could go with Weldwood contact cement rather than Barge, it's cheaper and sold at any hardware store.  John James 004 needles work well.  For a few bucks you can make your own stitching pony.

My recommendation first-off is to buy an inexpensive set of diamond chisels, a wing divider and cheap mallet, a utility knife and glue and needles and thread.  Get some leather and make something first before investing in fancy tools.  The Amazon kits are tempting but I think there's just too much filler crap in them that you may never use.  The first thing you need to learn is how to  saddle stitch using your new pony that you made yourself.  Good luck, have fun and spend wisely.

 

Thank you for your feedback Mike, you gave me lots to think about and very specific advice on my list. I appreciate it! 

I was under the impression that Euro style pricking irons + awl left a finer opening than using stitching irons that punch all the way through. Based on what you know, am I misunderstanding? This is the primary reason I looked at the traditional pricking irons like Blanchard/Amy Roke rather than the Japanese style diamond chisels.

I may be misclassifying "medium goods" the pattern I am working on for one of my first projects is using 8oz leather and panels of 27"x17"x17" triangle cut leather. I was planning on 3.85mm irons for this project and others of similar size. What do you think?

 

[mike02130]

16 minutes ago, frankly said:

I was under the impression that Euro style pricking irons + awl left a finer opening than using stitching irons that punch all the way through. Based on what you know, am I misunderstanding? This is the primary reason I looked at the traditional pricking irons like Blanchard/Amy Roke rather than the Japanese style diamond chisels.

I may be misclassifying "medium goods" the pattern I am working on for one of my first projects is using 8oz leather and panels of 27"x17"x17" triangle cut leather. I was planning on 3.85mm irons for this project and others of similar size. What do you think?

As far as hole size, I've never experimented so I won't bet big money on it but I believe they're the same.  But that may be the case with thicker leathers(?).  The newer irons are hybrids and thin.  No bigger than the awl you would use with the Blanchard's.  Keep in mind, the Blanchard's are for pricking only, the euros may be used for pricking and going all the way through.  Yes, the 3.85s will be good for that size.  If you had 4mm ones, it makes it easier to draw patterns by dividing or multiplying distances by a whole number rather than 3.85.

[TomE]

Vergez Blanchard is not the Blanchard of old.  I purchased one of their pricking irons that looked like a high school shop project - very rough and unfinished.  After hours of carefully smoothing and polishing the tines, it is useable.  Similarly, I ended up reshaping their screw crease until I was happy with it but not as happy with it as with older Gomph and Osborne creases.  Finally, I played around for 6 months with their plough gauge knife, changing the taper and adding a small bevel to the backside to prevent the plough gauge from pinching the strap so hard that it would hang up.  Vergez Blanchard did not respond to my emails asking about the plough gauge knife.  All of these tools were expensive and I am now satisfied with how they perform but it required some work.

I do a lot of hand sewing of 9-20 oz leather - bridles, reins, halters - and I commend you for your plans to learn how to use a sewing awl.  Using a correctly sized, sharp awl produces smaller holes that close around your thread and look neater IMO.  An awl will produce a hole in thick leather that is about the same size on the front and the back.  Using a sewing awl is also more versatile than pre-punching holes in dealing with unusual shapes, tight spaces, multiple layers, angling holes when stitching under a loop, etc.   I greatly prefer the Rocky Mountain European pricking irons over the Blanchard iron I purchased.  I mainly use the 2.7 mm spacing (9 SPI) and I rarely use the 2 prong iron - I just tip the wider iron on edge and lighten up on my maul when turning a corner.  You could consider a pricking iron for your common hole spacing and an inexpensive set of overstitch wheels to cover other hole spacings.  My awls are all Osborne awls.  I bought one expensive awl that was a piece of junk.  No reason to spend a lot on a fancy awl haft.  Find one that fits your hand and focus on learning to sharpen the awl.  Al Stohlman's book and Nigel Armitage's videos will show the method.  As you sharpen an awl repeatedly it gets smaller and more suited for fine stitching.  So having several inexpensive, sharp awls that are in various stages of wear will give you a range of sizes.

I would buy a quality stitching horse or clam.  I modified a Weaver stitching horse with notched out aluminum plates, based on a plywood version shown in a Stohlman book, and this is handy for working with straps and buckles.

  

   

Edited May 10, 2023 by TomE

[Klara]

7 hours ago, mike02130 said:

The first thing you need to learn is how to  saddle stitch using your new pony that you made yourself. 

Yep. If you have some experience working with wood and a few tools and scraps lying around, a stitching pony is easy enough to make. 

If you work with an awl (following Al Stohlman's technique - the instructions in The Art of Handstitching Leather can't be beat), any cheap stitching iron will do (or a wheel, which should be much faster) because you are only marking where you will poke the awl. 

Top brand names may be easier to sell second hand, but probably not for the price you paid for them. And the difference may well be the amount you'd pay for a cheap set from Amazon or Aliexpress (which you could keep lying around unused just in case you need to make or repair something someday). The difficulty with these sets is finding one that does not contain too much stuff that's unnecessary or unusable (I am pretty sure that the threads would be pretty crappy, for example. There I pay for brand names.  Same for needles - John James it is. )

We've recently had a similar topic - I still stand by my list of minimum tools (on page 2):

 

Though for your bags you will probably some way to close them, which might need another tool (set).

 

[Burkhardt]

20 hours ago, Klara said:

Yep. If you have some experience working with wood and a few tools and scraps lying around, a stitching pony is easy enough to make. 

If you work with an awl (following Al Stohlman's technique - the instructions in The Art of Handstitching Leather can't be beat), any cheap stitching iron will do (or a wheel, which should be much faster) because you are only marking where you will poke the awl. 

Top brand names may be easier to sell second hand, but probably not for the price you paid for them. And the difference may well be the amount you'd pay for a cheap set from Amazon or Aliexpress (which you could keep lying around unused just in case you need to make or repair something someday). The difficulty with these sets is finding one that does not contain too much stuff that's unnecessary or unusable (I am pretty sure that the threads would be pretty crappy, for example. There I pay for brand names.  Same for needles - John James it is. )

We've recently had a similar topic - I still stand by my list of minimum tools (on page 2):

 

Though for your bags you will probably some way to close them, which might need another tool (set).

 

You forgot the part about Ebay because Aliexpress and Amazon sell better stuff.