Contrasting thread color

[fredk]

Hand sew the second time?

[GatoGordo]

5 hours ago, GatoGordo said:

I don't understand this method. Are you saying that you create some kind of mold, then shape the two halves of the holster, then dye, and finally sew? How do the halves fit together? Can you point me to a video of this method so I can actually see it?

The method I use is: Dye, cut, sew, wet mold, finish.

Just to clarify: I understand this type of procedure with a pocket knife or something with little detail, but with a handgun that has lots of curves and indentations, I don't understand how wet molding before stitching can capture and maintain that detail.

[AlZilla]

19 minutes ago, GatoGordo said:

don't understand how wet molding before stitching can capture

That's not what he's saying. In the 10th post down, OP says "Dye, Cut, Stitch, Mold, Finish. "

He'd like to dye after stitching and molding but doesn't want to muck up his contrasting thread color.

Edited July 6, 2023 by AlZilla
clarity

[GatoGordo]

2 hours ago, AlZilla said:

That's not what he's saying. In the 10th post down, OP says "Dye, Cut, Stitch, Mold, Finish. "

He'd like to dye after stitching and molding but doesn't want to muck up his contrasting thread color.

I was questioning the fourth post where toxo states:

Why not just wet mould - dye - stitch - two coats of 50/50 Resolene?

I don't understand how to get and retain any detail if the stitching occurs after wet molding.

[caressofsteel]

Have you tried nylon thread? I have not personally tried to dye it, but nylon thread is supposed to be terribly difficult to dye.

I have seen other people's projects where the leather is stitched with white nylon thread and then dipped dyed black. The thread stays white. Seems you could test this on some scraps to see if it would be a possible solution.

[chuck123wapati]

have you tried gluing it then molding then sewing.

[JustPete]

Have you tried black pre-dyed holster leather? It seems to mold well enough for my needs, but I do mostly knife sheath work and its not always AS reliant on a tight friction fit. 

[AlZilla]

1 hour ago, GatoGordo said:

I was questioning the fourth post where toxo states:

Why not just wet mould - dye - stitch - two coats of 50/50 Resolene?

I don't understand how to get and retain any detail if the stitching occurs after wet molding.

Gotcha. I can't understand that either, then.

[toxo]

54 minutes ago, GatoGordo said:

I was questioning the fourth post where toxo states:

Why not just wet mould - dye - stitch - two coats of 50/50 Resolene?

I don't understand how to get and retain any detail if the stitching occurs after wet molding.

Let me first state that I don't make holsters. That being said I have wet moulded many other things. There are many examples on Y/T of getting detail into wet moulding using all sorts of tools including bone folders and fingers as the leather dries.

When I pondered this problem I assumed the back of the holster would be flat, (why wouldn't it be if it lies against the body?). But now I understand that not everyone makes holsters this way.

If I were to make a holster this way I would wrap the gun in plastic film, lay it down and prop it up level, then using some kind of moulding clay I would press it all around the gun to make a mould. Then using something like resin I would pour it into the mould to make a form that I could use again and again using the normal wet moulding techniques.

[toxo]

14 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

Gotcha. I can't understand that either, then.

There's no detail here but it shows the principle. If there were detail such as a gun it would be easy to get out.