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bkhansen182

Consew 227R messed up. Help

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 I bought a consew 227R a couple years back.  I used it awhile then put a speed reducer box on it and it worked okay for a bit but then started making a noise and stopped sewing leather.  The needle comes down on the leather and it binds and the belt slips and I can hand wheel it through.  I took the belts off and hand wheel it and there is definitely a sticky spot and creaking sound.  I have a video of me hand wheeling it but it’s too big to attach. Any help of where to start troubleshooting is greatly appreciated or is it really messed up?

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9 hours ago, Burkhardt said:

upload to youtube and post the link

Good call.  


let me know if other videos are needed

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The squeaking is the plastic belt,the tight spot could be lack of oil somewhere,have you oiled everything on the needlebar end?Including the takeup lever,needlebar & all the linkages?

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52 minutes ago, CowboyBob said:

The squeaking is the plastic belt,the tight spot could be lack of oil somewhere,have you oiled everything on the needlebar end?Including the takeup lever,needlebar & all the linkages?

I have oiled everything I knew or could see that I thought would need oil but that doesn’t mean I got everything that I should have.  I mostly watched videos to see where to oil and just hit the parts that I could tell move.  I will look it over  some more.  For some reason to me it almost acts like something is bent.  You can’t really see in the video but when it gets to the top of the stroke the moving parts (sorry, I don’t know the names) all kind of crowd together.  Maybe this is normal though.  I’ll try to see if I missed something with the oil.  Does the belt need replaced or is it good?

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The belt looks good.

 

 

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I have two walking foot machines here (one new).   Both have a tight spot where the inner foot presses down on the feed dogs.   I also have a needle feed only machine which is smooth as butter.  From that, I sort of figured all walking foots had a tight spot where the inner presses down and lifts the outer off the needle plate.  

I was able to reduce the tight spot on one by reducing the foot pressure. It was way too high from the factory. 

I'm a noob and this is just something I thought was normal.  Please let me know if others don't have this same issue.  

It's kinda hard to tell from the video but it almost looks like the inner foot isn't pressing down on the feed dog like I'd expect. 

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Check the linkage that runs the walking feet, If they are out of time, the linkage can bind on the inside of the case on the back side. Your presser foot doesn't appear to be moving the same amount as your walking foot. They should alternate an even amount for best performance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

iI

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It really sounds like it's related to the cogged belt.  After time, rubber and plastic do wierd things.  I would bet the teeth are all gummed up with sticky palstic/rubber, whatever the belt is made of.  I would try to get a little silicone spray on the teeth, but I think a better solution is to replace the belt after claeing all the teeth on the machine.  

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Update: I have re-oiled and ran the machine a number of times.  When going fast it’s pretty smooth but once the machine is operating slow I still get the tight spot.  Not as bad usually but sometimes it does completely bind up and I have to back it off a little and then go forward again to get through it.  I will try some belt dressing and check walking feet timing as suggested 

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On 9/25/2023 at 10:59 PM, bkhansen182 said:

The needle comes down on the leather and it binds

This has happened to me and many others when we have either purposely, or inadvertently increased the lift ratio of the presser and alternating feet too high. Once you increase the alternating lift, and are actually sewing something, the internal crank shafts can make hard contact with the presser foot bar, jamming the action.

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It's still probably binding at speed but you're just powering through it.  I might disconnect the belt and try turning the upper and lower shafts by hand and see if you feel the binding.  I'd take the needle out before doing this because disconnecting the belt disconnects the positioning between the feed dog position and needle position. 

I'd also take off the needle plate and try turning the machine over.  I've had two machines where the feed dog touched the needle plate and cause both noises and binding.  It depended on stitch length too. Smaller stitch lengths had no contact. 

I think it's unlikely to have anything to do with the belt.  

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On 10/4/2023 at 2:43 PM, Quade said:

It's still probably binding at speed but you're just powering through it.  I might disconnect the belt and try turning the upper and lower shafts by hand and see if you feel the binding.  I'd take the needle out before doing this because disconnecting the belt disconnects the positioning between the feed dog position and needle position. 

I'd also take off the needle plate and try turning the machine over.  I've had two machines where the feed dog touched the needle plate and cause both noises and binding.  It depended on stitch length too. Smaller stitch lengths had no contact. 

I think it's unlikely to have anything to do with the belt.  

I found where it’s binding.  Now to learn how to adjust it correctly.  A tan on the bobbin and I guess the “opener” are binding up

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Yeah the gap is like a couple thickness of paper.  In my manual it didn't show actual thickness.   It's got to be wide enough to let whatever thicknesses of bobbin thread you're using slip through the gap. 

 

Edited by Quade

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On 10/12/2023 at 6:04 PM, Quade said:

Yeah the gap is like a couple thickness of paper.  In my manual it didn't show actual thickness.   It's got to be wide enough to let whatever thicknesses of bobbin thread you're using slip through the gap. 

 

So I took another video of what I’ve found and not sure if this is how it’s supposed to be or how to fix.  I can’t see where I can raise the thread separator to get clearance.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/1-VqUMBC8HY?si=jhmBiOMdtqvQvOzd

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Yes, that is the bobbin case opener. Put the bobbin case back in place and simply bend the opener up until it is level with the triangle tab on the bobbin case that it pushes to open the thread release, allowing the thread to pull around the bobbin. It looks like it only needs a mm or so of lift. To high and it can hit the cover.

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