deboardp Posted January 9, 2024 Author Report Posted January 9, 2024 (edited) 25 minutes ago, SUP said: @fredk, true. A good leather conditioner therefore does not really require a host of ingredients. A couple will do the job, since most are multi-functional. It's no wonder that people seem to use what works for them and stay out of the discussion of what is the best conditioner. It's not possible for an acceptable consensus to be made! Personally, my cognitive and memory functions are far too compromised for me to figure out, for example, what are the basic guiding principles for choosing the ingredients for my leather conditioner. Does leather need to breathe? Does it need to be watered? Does it need to be lubricated? I think if someone makes a stand on any of those questions and says yes it does, or no it doesn't, someone else will immediately say the opposite. Edited January 9, 2024 by deboardp My phone disagrees with me Quote
Members SUP Posted January 9, 2024 Members Report Posted January 9, 2024 @deboardp, exactly! Quote Learning is a life-long journey.
CFM chuck123wapati Posted January 9, 2024 CFM Report Posted January 9, 2024 1 hour ago, deboardp said: Does it need to be watered? Does it need to be lubricated? I think if someone makes a stand on any of those questions and says yes it does, or no it doesn't, someone else will immediately say the opposite. Depends on its use also and where it used and is also another reason why no one can agree. A working saddle in Arizona isn't conditioned the same as a pair of hunting boots in Canada. we often comment without regard to other variables but only on what we know works for what we make where we make it. Here in Wyoming a piece of leather could lay out on the prairie for 100 years, I have found such old shoe parts while metal detecting. While a piece of leather in Louisiana may deteriorate in a few months due to the different climate, humidity, molds and such. Quote Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms. “I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!
Members SUP Posted January 9, 2024 Members Report Posted January 9, 2024 @chuck123wapati exactly, as well! So many variables in the equation. Quote Learning is a life-long journey.
Members dikman Posted January 9, 2024 Members Report Posted January 9, 2024 21 hours ago, deboardp said: Why would I want to store it at room temperature?? And why are you asking me to do this instead of answering my valid observation and question to you, that stuffed leather doesn't have air inside it? That stored fat in the fridge or freezer is different from fats inside leather due to the absence of air? What do you think of that? You were talking about the use of pork fat in the past to treat leather and it would have been stored at room temperature so to me that is the criteria to use for determining its suitability - what is its shelf life? If it can be stored indefinitely at room temperature then adding it to leather shouldn't cause any problems. However, everything I have read so far about rendered pork fat says it has a limited shelf life but fred's experience suggests otherwise (albeit fred's is in the fridge, not at room temperature). By asking you to do it, why not? You have the pork fat so your experience with it would provide all of us with valuable first-hand information, no different to what others do on here when trying something out. As to whether "stuffed leather" has air in it, I have no idea as it seems pretty irrelevant to me. I don't understand why you appear to be attacking me over this, if you want to use pork fat on your leather that's your business it doesn't bother me, I'm merely pointing out that what I've read so far about rendered pork fat gives me cause for concern about using it to treat leather. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members ScottWolf Posted January 9, 2024 Members Report Posted January 9, 2024 9 hours ago, deboardp said: " what are the basic guiding principles for choosing the ingredients for my leather conditioner. " I think if someone makes a stand on any of those questions and says yes it does, or no it doesn't, someone else will immediately say the opposite. I believe only you can answer this question. In my leather conditioner recipe thread I started with using certain products/ingredients and avoiding others. That was my baseline starting point for seeing which ingredients and the combos of them that worked. As you read through the thread, you will see I later used some of the ingredients I initially avoided to further refine and or prove/disprove the effectiveness of their use in a leather conditioning product(meaning a concoction of several ingredients like beeswax, oils,etc, not the ingredient by itself). Each combo of ingredients has its own performance characteristics on the type of leather it is used on that can be observed. Certain ingredients are known to darken leather significantly, others to a lesser extent. If you want to darken the leather, then using those ingredients would suit your use case and visa versa if you don't want to darken the leather. Through experimenting with different ingredients, you will answer your own question. Or, you can go out and buy and try all the different commercial products until you find one you like, which is what most people do. Lastly, if you know of a commercial product that works for you, you can always search for the MSDS for that product and get the breakdown of ingredients used and recreate it yourself, minus the parts you don't want to use and or increase the amount of an ingredient you want to use more of. "Welcome to the internet, someone will be along shortly to disagree with you." is a phrase that holds true, no matter the subject matter. When it comes to leather work, it's no different, especially when some old guy in 1892 wrote down in a book that he used ingredient X ,because that's all they had at the time, so now it's considered gospel that cannot be questioned or a more suitable modern ingredient used in its place. One can slather just about anything on leather, but the old saying "just because you can, doesn't mean you should" should be kept in mind, even in this day and age. Quote
deboardp Posted January 9, 2024 Author Report Posted January 9, 2024 (edited) 1 hour ago, dikman said: You were talking about the use of pork fat in the past to treat leather and it would have been stored at room temperature so to me that is the criteria to use for determining its suitability - what is its shelf life? If it can be stored indefinitely at room temperature then adding it to leather shouldn't cause any problems. However, everything I have read so far about rendered pork fat says it has a limited shelf life but fred's experience suggests otherwise (albeit fred's is in the fridge, not at room temperature). dikman, first I apologize for being undiplomatic with my response. To explain, I responded to what you said by noting the difference between pork lard being out in the elements, exposed to heat and light, and pork lard being in a container refrigerated. I pointed out that the former is exposed to air, and the latter, not so much, but still exposed to air somewhat. I assumed you knew that oxidation is one of the factors involved in the deterioration of leather, but it seems I am wrong, because you said it is irrelevant. (I just read an article that says that there are two main factors involved in the degradation of leather: oxidation and hydrolysis. Both processes dismantle the chemical and physical bonds of the collagen fibers of leather.) To me, my question seems relevant. Do conditioners minimize oxidation (and hydrolysis) of leather? If so, which ingredients do it better than others? Is there a best combination? I don't see anything wrong with this question. To me, it seems to be basic. I want my custom leather sandals to last for decades, not years. I also want the straps and the topsole to be pliable, form to the feet, resist degradation. I want my conditioner to essentially prepare them for life on someone's feet. So when you suggested I watch my pork lard in a tin can at room temperature for an indefinite amount of time, well, it was offensive. To me, It was offensive. Probably nobody else would be offended by having a reasonable question ignored, but I am always offended a little when someone ignores my question. Not knowing you, and not wanting folks here to think poorly of me, I should have answered diplomatically, after I cooled off a bit. I apologize, I'm a bit uncouth. I don't know how to get to the second half of your comment without losing this, so I'll submit this and go back and submit for the second half. Editing now. You said, "By asking you to do it, why not? You have the pork fat so your experience with it would provide all of us with valuable first-hand information, no different to what others do on here when trying something out. As to whether "stuffed leather" has air in it, I have no idea as it seems pretty irrelevant to me. I don't understand why you appear to be attacking me over this, if you want to use pork fat on your leather that's your business it doesn't bother me, I'm merely pointing out that what I've read so far about rendered pork fat gives me cause for concern about using it to treat leather. " Now that I'm cool, I see your point. It's a good one. I also now share this concern. If it goes rancid in a can (protected from air) at room temperature, what will it do in a body-heated pair of sandals? Will it stink them up? I'm now leaning toward my plan B recipe of lanolin, beeswax, and macadamia nut oil, because there's no connection to recently deceased animals. The sheep doesn't die when its lanolin is harvested, and it's sitting happily in a pail in the corner of my shop, on the floor behind the sewing machine. If I have wasted money by buying tallow and lard, that's fine. I'm learning in the process of trying to think through all the information I've been exposed to. (I can't say ...all the information I've gathered... because almost nothing sticks.) Thankfully, the basic principles seems to stick, sometimes. Edited January 10, 2024 by deboardp Quote
deboardp Posted January 10, 2024 Author Report Posted January 10, 2024 I hope the IT fellow can clean up the mess above. I don't dare try. Quote
Members Mablung Posted January 10, 2024 Members Report Posted January 10, 2024 To be honest, @deboardp, I think you might be slightly overcomplicating the oxidation issue with animal lards/tallows. I have bacon grease, which I haven't rendered into lard, sitting on my stovetop all the time, because I cook with it. I have never had any issues with it oxidizing, and I have it sitting out all the time. If the sandals smell, it will assuredly be because of sweaty feet, not oxidizing lard stuffed into the fibers, if I were to guess. Something like these sandals will need regular, if not necessarily frequent, reconditioning, so I don't think you need to worry about it to much. That said, it sounds like you have a good recipe going that doesn't rely on it. But I would doubt you have much to worry about. Quote
Members dikman Posted January 10, 2024 Members Report Posted January 10, 2024 7 hours ago, deboardp said: I hope the IT fellow can clean up the mess above. I don't dare try. Macadamia oil - all the references I've found about it refer to using it in cooking (apparently very good for you and a high burning point) BUT they also say to keep it refrigerated and mention it eventually turning rancid, so it may not be what you're looking for. I have a couple of Macadamia trees and thought it might be worth extracting the oil but it looks like a lot of work so I don't think I'll bother (the only way I can crack the nuts is in a metal-working vise so it's a very labour-intensive and tedious job, and I keep eating them as I crack them!). So far the only animal fats that I'm aware of that store well and don't turn rancid are beef and sheep fat, rendered to tallow (and maybe deer fat?). These have been around for a very long time, and along with beeswax are tried and proven for treating leather. Just something to think about. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
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