Help - Splotchy Dip Dye, Salvage?

[DavidK]

Hi all,

Dip dyed this 8oz piece in pro dye 50/50 dye/99% isopropyl, not sure why it dried so splotchy? Any advice on how to potentially salvage, or is it done?

Ive seen folks talk about NF to help with these type of problems, or other solutions. Any thoughts welcome, thanks!

Best,
David

 

Other piece in same batch:

O

Edited February 16 by DavidK

[DieselTech]

Is that a Fiebings dye? I was making a nice tri-fold wallet & had that happen to me with fiebings light brown dye when I tried dip dying it. 

I eventually put it back in the dye for about 8-10 minutes & it came out even then. 

It was my first time doing a dip dye process & was pissed & freaked out both. 

But I saved it & it turned out good. 

[DavidK]

5 minutes ago, DieselTech said:

Is that a Fiebings dye? I was making a nice tri-fold wallet & had that happen to me with fiebings light brown dye when I tried dip dying it. 

I eventually put it back in the dye for about 8-10 minutes & it came out even then. 

It was my first time doing a dip dye process & was pissed & freaked out both. 

But I saved it & it turned out good. 

Thanks for the tip! Was thinking about doing this or hitting it with some NF first then trying. Ill see what other folks suggest before committing to that, since it will definitely darken the color substantially.

[DieselTech]

24 minutes ago, DavidK said:

Thanks for the tip! Was thinking about doing this or hitting it with some NF first then trying. Ill see what other folks suggest before committing to that, since it will definitely darken the color substantially.

Yeah I'm curious to what others have to say as well. Lol my wallet looked like a dalmatian dog, my 1st time using fiebings dye & dip dying. But I saved it, but at the cost of it being a lot darker than originally planned. 

 

[fredk]

Try wetting the leather before dipping, and leave in the dye for longer

[Aven]

I know that it isn't what you wanted, but I have to say I like it.  I think the quiver would be awesome with the two tone.  It would look old and well love, especially with tradition arrows.  I know it doesn't answer your question of why, but sometimes the accidents are happy one.

[DieselTech]

@DavidK did you resolve the splotchy dye problem you ran into. Tell us how things went. 

Thanks.

[DavidK]

On 2/17/2024 at 8:24 AM, DieselTech said:

@DavidK did you resolve the splotchy dye problem you ran into. Tell us how things went. 

Thanks.

Yes and no... I ended up remaking it twice. I took the first one, splotchy pictured above, and re-dyed it. That eliminated the splotch factor but then made the color WAY darker, and not desirable.

I then did 2 things - i sudo-cased the leather until it was pretty moist, and also set up a dip dye rig that allowed me to, in one motion, dip the large piece and immediately wipe off the excess dye with some sheep wool taped to a cardboard box. 

The first time, it almost worked but i made a mistake and accidently dabbed it back onto the soaked wool - which left some streaks (the middle image). I did it a third time, and got a very nice even dye (though a couple dark spots where my fingers held the leather - its good enough for me and i can do better next time with hand placement)

 

See image below, chronological from left to right. Right is the final one I'm walking with.

 

The dip dye setup, with the wool for wiping on the left of the tray:

Edited February 29 by DavidK

[Mablung]

Re: dip dyeing technique, Chuck Dorsett, who does the Leather Element videos for Weaver Leathercraft, recommends punching stitching holes before dyeing so that the dye penetrates the holes, and then using a piece of small-gauge wire hooked into a stitch hole to draw the leather through the dye. I haven’t tried it personally, but that would eliminate the dark spots from your fingers. Mr. Dorsett also wears gloves to keep dye off his fingers, which I do sometimes. FWTW. 

[Dwight]

I dip dye exclusively . . . unless there is some mitigating factor that makes me do it otherwise.

All projects  . . . especially if it is any tan or brown lighter than "dark" brown . . . get a first dressing with neatsfoot oil on the hair side only.  And if I remember to do that . . . it is after all the forming and stitching is done (unless it is a "white stitching" project).  Depending on the piece . . . sometimes I do the darker brown or black . . . sometimes not . . . if the leather is more flimsy I avoid it . . . if it is more than average firm . . . it gets a dose.

Let it set for 24 hours . . . and as much as possible . . . one "kinda slow" . . . but uniform . . . pass thru the dye pan . . . similar to the above picture . . . wipe off any excess with paper towel . . . and then lay it horizontal for about 20 minutes . . . then either hang up to dry . . . or go to the "hot box" . . . as needed.

Did a bunch of belts for a show one time . . . dyed em and hung em up to dry  . . .  and re-dyed em all the next day.  The dye had migrated down to the bottom of the hanging piece . . . they were all noticeable darker at the bottom than the top.  NEVER did THAT again.

I DO NOT have splotchy problems . . .  unless I get too near the edge of a veg tan piece . . . where the leather is "harder" there.  I can touch that up with a dauber though . . . 

BUT . . . I use only Feibings pro oil dye . . . and Feibings reducer . . . 4 oz bottle of each . . . mixed together . . . makes my dye.  I only do 4 colors . . .  normally . . . none of this "can you make it match my aunt's 70 yr old book bag?" stuff . . . learned that is a losing program.

May God bless,

Dwight