Swing Away Clicker Press Fabrication

[kgg]

I decided that I would like a manual swing away clicker press and done the calculations on what size of clicker press would work for me. A 5 ton. Then the next step was to check the pricing for one. What I found was that my budget would need to be somewhere between $2500 CAD ($1850 USD) and $3300 CAD ($2450 USD) depending on the vendor.

Not happening.

So me being me I figure I would purchase a new 20 ton shop / bearing press (Princess Auto ) and convert it too a swing away clicker press. I estimated that it could be done including the cost of the shop / bearing press for around the $700 CAD ($520 USD). Guess which way I choose to go???

Additionally the shop / bearing press is not a one trick pony as it will be used for other pressing functions besides leather. 

So I have been mucking around with this project on and off for a couple of months now. Here is what I have come up with so far. I have broken this into two parts, one for what I would consider necessary upgrades to the shop / bearing press and a second part dealing with the additional modifications necessary for a 16" x 12" the swing away clicker press.

The first video is a overview of the, dirty dozen plus eight, mods for convenience and too severely reduce problems or minimize risks. Some mods reduce / eliminate the side to side or front to back slop movement of the main C-channel cross members and the base of the bottle jack, another eliminates the dreaded main C-channel cross member support pin creep then there are couple to prevent the presser plate (s) from slipping off the main C-channel cross members and falling on my tootsies. I usually where slippers while in the house and that is where the shop / bearing press will be.

Others mods are for convenience like a parts catch / storage bag, lighting, lifting / lowering the C-channel cross members and installation of four retractable wheels for portability.

I still for the life me can't see why all the design engineers and manufacturers with their fancy CAD programs hadn't figured out a simple solution to the dreaded pin creep that a lot of people complain about. It took me all of about 5 minutes to see the problem once it started to happen to me and maybe an hour designing a 3D printed solution.

In this project the four main tools that I used were:

1. Metal Cutter: Canadian Tire MAXIMUM 7A Heavy-Duty Corded 4 1/2" Angle Grinder

2. Drill Press: King Canada

3. Welder: KICKINGHORSE F130 CSA-Certified Flux Core Gasless MIG with 0.035" wire.

4. 3D Printer: A modified Bambu Lab X1-Carbon with AMS

 A second video will be the mods needed for the swing away siding 16" x 12" clicker top and presser plate.

Please comment and make suggestions as all are appreciated but be nice as I'm not a welder just an old matter hacker geezer.

kgg

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[DieselTech]

Nice work. Looks professional to me. I say thumbs up on your fabrication work. 

[kgg]

26 minutes ago, DieselTech said:

Nice work. Looks professional to me. I say thumbs up on your fabrication work. 

Thank you.

[toxo]

Wow! I remember when I was young enough to take on projects like that. As usual, you've minded your work, paying attention to detail in a way that I can't seem to do.  Can't wait to see it working in anger. Very well done my friend.

[kgg]

15 minutes ago, toxo said:

Very well done my friend.

Thank you. I'm just finishing working out the details for the actual swing away before I start building it.

[toxo]

Was thinking about that. Wouldn't a slide away drawer be simpler? maybe like the old fashioned slide projectors where you could load one side whilst pressing the other? You could have a veritable production line going.

[kgg]

1 minute ago, toxo said:

Wouldn't a slide away drawer be simpler?

My aim is that the plate is made up of three parts, the top part being HDPE sitting on top of 1 1/2 " plywood plate that has inverted "L" guides on two sides to create a channel and a steel base plate that would sit on the main C-channel cross members. The HDPE would be able to slide then from front to back on the plywood between the guides. The plywood wood have a pivot point on one side that would allow movement in a circular movement around that pivot point and the pivot point would also be able to move side to side. 

My hope is that with my design the leather on the HDPE top i) can be slide straight in or out between the side guides of the plywood ii) the HDPE and the plywood would be able to be swung outwards to me in a circular motion around the pivot point iii) both the HDPE and plywood would be able to also slide side to side over the base plate. 

With the standard manual clicker presses you swing the presser head around the vertical pivot point and the base is stationary. With the stop press the base has to swing around a pivot point.

Only time and a few fancy words of encouragement will tell if it well work.

kgg

[toxo]

9 hours ago, kgg said:

My aim is that the plate is made up of three parts, the top part being HDPE sitting on top of 1 1/2 " plywood plate that has inverted "L" guides on two sides to create a channel and a steel base plate that would sit on the main C-channel cross members. The HDPE would be able to slide then from front to back on the plywood between the guides. The plywood wood have a pivot point on one side that would allow movement in a circular movement around that pivot point and the pivot point would also be able to move side to side. 

My hope is that with my design the leather on the HDPE top i) can be slide straight in or out between the side guides of the plywood ii) the HDPE and the plywood would be able to be swung outwards to me in a circular motion around the pivot point iii) both the HDPE and plywood would be able to also slide side to side over the base plate. 

With the standard manual clicker presses you swing the presser head around the vertical pivot point and the base is stationary. With the stop press the base has to swing around a pivot point.

Only time and a few fancy words of encouragement will tell if it well work.

kgg

I think I see it.

The thing is, all the swing away models have to have a massive capstone and bush system to negate any sag. Your model, if using a sliding system would seem to avoid all that and make the build much easier with less headache. Of course whatever other uses you have in mind will be a factor

[dikman]

Very nice job (as always).  I've had the same thought of using a shop press in a similar fashion but........have I mentioned before that I've run out of room to put things? I'd have to get rid of the motorbike and that ain't happening in a hurry!

Look forward to the next step.

[toxo]

4 hours ago, dikman said:

Very nice job (as always).  I've had the same thought of using a shop press in a similar fashion but........have I mentioned before that I've run out of room to put things? I'd have to get rid of the motorbike and that ain't happening in a hurry!

Look forward to the next step.

Forget the best sewing machines and skivers, I envy the people with SPACE. I've almost finished moving my "shop" from one bedroom to another. I'll take some pics when I've shoehorned everything in.