PEU Report post Posted April 25 Hi, Im using Groz-Beckert 794D DYX3D TRI Point needles with N.10/270 thread and every now and then when backstitching to start or end a job the needle rips the stitch that was there in the new reentry to the same hole. Is there a way to avoid this? Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DieselTech Report post Posted April 25 I've had the same issue with the tri point needles on occasion. But if I pay close attention I can avoid it. If you want better odds of not cutting threads on back stitch, maybe try the spear point leather needles. Know as a "S" point. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted April 26 6 hours ago, PEU said: Hi, Im using Groz-Beckert 794D DYX3D TRI Point needles with N.10/270 thread and every now and then when backstitching to start or end a job the needle rips the stitch that was there in the new reentry to the same hole. Is there a way to avoid this? Thanks! Actually, round point needles are the least likely to cut your previous stitches! But, they tend to get stuck in the leather, or squeak as the penetrate it. I've seen round point needles make smoke in veg tan leather when sewing at as little as 10 stitches per second. You may be able to reduce the amount of piercing of stitches by sewing in forward only and double tapping the starting and finishing stitches. The double tap is done by centering the stitch length lever so it doesn't advance the leather. You sew twice into the same hole and the stitches are locked solidly, as long as you have plenty of top tension. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PEU Report post Posted April 26 15 hours ago, DieselTech said: I've had the same issue with the tri point needles on occasion. But if I pay close attention I can avoid it. If you want better odds of not cutting threads on back stitch, maybe try the spear point leather needles. Know as a "S" point. To what detail I should pay attention? 9 hours ago, Wizcrafts said: Actually, round point needles are the least likely to cut your previous stitches! But, they tend to get stuck in the leather, or squeak as the penetrate it. I've seen round point needles make smoke in veg tan leather when sewing at as little as 10 stitches per second. I'm nowhere near those speeds, as I'm stitching knife sheaths. Tried round needles but they leave an ugly hole, not as nice as the tripoint needles. Pablo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted April 26 Don't do back-stitching on your machine. Leave extra long tails at the start and finish, then manually back-stitch (saddle stitch) using harness needles. You can then place your stitch more accurately, and relatively no risk of damaging the threads. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DieselTech Report post Posted April 26 59 minutes ago, Northmount said: Don't do back-stitching on your machine. Leave extra long tails at the start and finish, then manually back-stitch (saddle stitch) using harness needles. You can then place your stitch more accurately, and relatively no risk of damaging the threads. Thanks @Northmount for that tip. I would have not thought about that. Thats a great tip & trick. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted April 26 17 hours ago, PEU said: Im using Groz-Beckert 794D DYX3D TRI Point needles with N.10/270 thread You forgot to mention what size of needle you are using. You should be probably using a #25 or #26 needle depending on how thick and tough the leather is. Also another alternative is rather then starting at the very beginning of where you would normally drop in the first stitch is to move forward about three stitches and reverse back to the normal starting point then start your forward stitches. That way you reduce the amount of thread (stitches) in the holes down from three to two yet the stitches are locked. At the other end just back stitch three stitches and end there. kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PEU Report post Posted April 27 9 hours ago, kgg said: You forgot to mention what size of needle you are using. You should be probably using a #25 or #26 needle depending on how thick and tough the leather is. Also another alternative is rather then starting at the very beginning of where you would normally drop in the first stitch is to move forward about three stitches and reverse back to the normal starting point then start your forward stitches. That way you reduce the amount of thread (stitches) in the holes down from three to two yet the stitches are locked. At the other end just back stitch three stitches and end there. kgg I'm using 200/25 with N.10/270 thread, I usually stitch three times toward the start of the sheath, invert and then go al the way around doing the same at the end. 10 hours ago, Northmount said: Don't do back-stitching on your machine. Leave extra long tails at the start and finish, then manually back-stitch (saddle stitch) using harness needles. You can then place your stitch more accurately, and relatively no risk of damaging the threads. This is actually a good idea since I come from manual stitching with these needles. Will try the technique for sure, will need to wax the thread so its not a royal PITA to make it thru the needle eye LOL Pablo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PEU Report post Posted May 1 On 4/26/2024 at 11:47 PM, PEU said: I'm using 200/25 with N.10/270 thread, I usually stitch three times toward the start of the sheath, invert and then go al the way around doing the same at the end. Today was stitching day and this problem drove me crazy, 40 sheaths and at least 10 when finishing the stitch, the needle broke the previous pass, a royal PITA. I can use some help Maybe if I dull the edges of the needle? Pablo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites