How to time Model 29 Patcher

[Lostranger]

My patcher is a late-model unit bearing the Consew label. Model 29BL It is obviously out of time. I have found nothing helpful on line. Contacting Consew was a stressful waste. I will not buy another machine bearing that time.

Can anyone here point me to timing instructions. I need this machine every day in my shoe shop. I would appreciate any help or advice.

Jsmes in NC

[kgg]

1 hour ago, Lostranger said:

Can anyone here point me to timing instructions.

The Consew 29BL appears to be similar to the Techsew 2900L. These two links may help:

i) Checking the Timing:

 

ii) Adjusting the Timing:

Hope these help.

kgg

Edited August 11, 2024 by kgg

[Lostranger]

Thanks so much. This is exactly what I need.

James

[Lostranger]

The amount of adjustment available with this eccentric is not enough to core my problem. Does anyone have experience with more extensive timing procedure?

[Northmount]

16 hours ago, Lostranger said:

My patcher is a late-model unit bearing the Consew label. Model 29BL

Moved your post to leather sewing machines

[Wizcrafts]

@Lostranger

When I have problems with patchers, and the timing is as close as it can be set and the bobbin thread is not getting picked up, I look at the following things.

• The top threading. Make sure you've gone around the top tension disks and that they apply sufficient tension when the foot is down. Make sure you are feeding it through the hole in the check lever on top, then down the snout.
• The needle system. Make sure you are using either System 29x3, 29x4, 135x16, or 135x17.
• Make sure that there isn't a broken needle shaft stuck inside the needle clamp and that the needle is all the way up in it.
• The needle orientation. Make sure that the rib side is facing left and the scarf cutout is facing due right.
• The needle position. You can move the needle clamp to the left or right to get as close to the hook as possible.
• The paddle spring. This often overlooked spring is inside the needle bar, just above the needle clamp. It's job is to hold onto the top thread as the loop is formed when the needle makes a down>up job. If this spring is bent, gouged, or missing the thread loop will dissolve before the hook can pick it off the scarf of the needle.
• Check the driving gear inside the gear box to see if it has come loose. This gear is directly under the shuttle. There is a small screw inside the gear that secures it to its shaft. There is a hole on the back of the arm, inline with the gear. Rotate the wheel to bring the screw into view in that hole.You'll need a narrow blade precision screwdriver with a flat blade and good side handle to tighten it if it's loose. A loose drive gear throws off the timing.
• Finally, adjust the spring tension and travel of the check lever on top. It's possible that the spring is pulling it up too much and overpowering the paddle spring as it tries to secure the loop at pick-off time.

If all of this fails, get rid of it. I fought with a blue body Singer long arm patcher for years and it never sewed reliably. I got rid of it and bought an Adler 30-7 and haven't looked back.

[shoepatcher]

When timing a shoepatcher, the bobbin and hook  to sits on top of the shuttle carrier has to come back to 10:00 meaning it has to go back past the needle.  Needle is at 9:00.  If it doe not go past that before it starts forward, will never pick up the bobbin thread.   The eccentric screw and nut  is what you adjust to advance or retard the travel of the hook to the needle.

glenn