Neatsfoot oil vs. Neatsfoot compound

[jcuk]

Pure or compound over use it and it will saturate your work. So which ever you use make sure you use it in moderation because it will loosen the fibres in the leather and in a lot of cases rendering some things useless especially in horse tack very hard to get it back to how it was, best best way i have found is neglect don't feed it with anything else for a good while and even that not fool proof. One other thing i have seen lazy people just use it to clean their tack every day after a while some horses skin started to blister in some of the places the tack came into contact with the horse skin so also be careful on that too. As for heating it yes it is best to heat only to a point where luke/tepid warm, it will help penetrate the fibres of the leather, the same way as you would re-wax a waxed jacket you heat the bees wax up or what ever solutions you maybe using. Again don't over do it either should be okay.

Hope this helps

JCUK

 

[TomE]

2 hours ago, SUP said:

Yes. And that would have been the effect of the Neatsfoot oil, not the additives. One has to be very careful with Neatsfoot oil as it can turn leather very soft and limp. I solved that on one piece of leather by keeping it under a candle warmer for a couple of hours. It stiffened up the leather so that it was at least useable. I put that tip on using a candle warmer up here as soon as I discovered it, though I don't know whether anyone took it seriously.  

Maybe the Neatsfoot oil needs to be warmed when used on thicker, stiffer leather. I don't use leather that is thicker than about 6 oz.  so cannot say anything about that. 

Natural fibres will rot over time, no matter what one does to protect it. That is why I use synthetic thread. More practical.

 

I routinely oil bridle leather that is 9-12 oz.  A light coat at the end of the project.  It soaks right in and softens the leather a little, which is what I'm after. Don't need to apply heat.  Even harness leather that is loaded with fats and oils will take up neatsfoot oil at room temp.

Jason Timmermans did a systematic study of leather hardening methods.  He's written articles for the Leather Crafter's Journal and published this online. https://medium.com/@jasontimmermans/a-comparative-study-of-leather-hardening-techniques-16-methods-tested-and-novel-approaches-8574e571f619

[Dwight]

In one of John Bianchi's videos . . . he finished up a single holster  cowboy rig . . . 

He had not dyed it yet . . . just finished the construction.

His final "construction" step was to dip it in a stainless steel container of neatsfoot oil that was in his statement . . . warmed.

Quite honestly . . . due to his overall success at selling hundreds of thousands of leather products . . . I just think I'll believe him before some  internet cowboy who may have made a belt and wallet. 

He considered his leather products worth the few extra pennies to use the real stuff.  Maybe being cheap is more important to other folks.

May God bless,

Dwight

[SUP]

@TomE Oh! So even for thicker, heavier leathers you don't need to warm the oil. Thank you. I did not know that.

I cannot access that article on hardening leather. Do you have another link? I am not subscribed with Medium.

 

 "Maybe being cheap is more important to other folks." 

 It might not always a question of being cheap, @Dwight Sometimes, Neatsfoot oil is not available since stores are increasingly selling the compound and not the pure oil. And some people actually prefer Neatsfoot compound to Neatsfoot oil. I have met a couple of people who do. 

Anyway, personally, I just do what I think is best for me, based my own range of knowledge and experience. Everyone does the same, I should think. Who knows who is completely correct or completely wrong, or if there is even any such thing? As long as none of us completely destroys our leather, and I doubt anyone has, using Neatsfoot compound vs oil 

 

Edited September 3, 2024 by SUP

[fredk]

3 hours ago, TomE said:

I routinely oil bridle leather that is 9-12 oz.  A light coat at the end of the project.  It soaks right in and softens the leather a little, which is what I'm after. Don't need to apply heat.  Even harness leather that is loaded with fats and oils will take up neatsfoot oil at room temp.

But you are in an area which by consideration of other areas is warmer. My average summer temperature is 15* -18* C = about 59* - 64* F, winter drops to 1* - 4* C / 33* - 39* F.    My room temperature is 18* C,  and that is warm for me. So you see, some of us need to warm the NFO up otherwise its as thick as treacle

Edited September 3, 2024 by fredk

[SUP]

23 minutes ago, fredk said:

My average summer temperature is 15* -18* C = about 59* - 64* F, winter drops to 1* - 4* C / 33* - 39* F.

Of course! Never thought of that! 

@fredk Is there a difference in the thickening of Neatsfoot oil and Neatsfoot compound when it is cold?

Edited September 3, 2024 by SUP

[fredk]

A slight difference; NFO pure goes slightly thicker than NFO compound

[TomE]

4 hours ago, SUP said:

 

I cannot access that article on hardening leather. Do you have another link? I am not subscribed with Medium.

 

I am able to read the article after dismissing the popup window inviting me to subscribe.  The only other source I know of is his articles in the Leather Crafters Journal.  

[AlZilla]

The MSDS for NFO Compound only says it's 60 to 100% Mineral Oil.

SDS Neatsfoot Cmpd 10102016.pdf

[SUP]

@TomE I could read it too. Informative article! 

@AlZilla Yes I saw that. Others say 'Neatsfoot oil >= 10%'  in the ingredient list. 

https://www.msdsdigital.com/system/files/BR Neatsfoot Oil Compound.pdf

Neatsfoot compound probably started as neatsfoot oil with additives and ended up being additives with a little Neatsfoot oil in it! LOL The amount of Neatsfoot oil probably differs in different brands but I bet it is very low.  The compounds usually have other ingredients that the companies keep as a 'proprietary  blend'. 

And if the additives are just mineral oil, I'm fine with it. 

 

Edited September 4, 2024 by SUP