Recommended stitching machine for new shoemaker

[JAM]

I've got a great Cobra class 4 machine that I've used happily for years for saddles and strap goods, but I'm learning shoe and boot making now (just for me) and between my saddle machine and regular fabric sewing machine I'm getting by but get seriously stuck assembling uppers and linings. I want to find a post bed sewing machine (I know they're expensive and I don't want to waste my money) -  recommendations for a decent beginner level machine that won't break the bank too badly? 

[Northmount]

On 9/23/2024 at 12:56 PM, JAM said:

recommendations for a decent beginner level machine

Moved your post to leather sewing machines to see if someone there can chime in since there has been no response for several days in the shoe moccasin area.

[Wizcrafts]

@JAM, You should look into a 7 inch tall post machine with a roller foot and roller feed dog. The 7 inch post will let you sew in a circle over the post to combine the uppers, and to sew decorative patterns. Most post machines are able to tension #92 thread and under. Some may even handle #138. Many cowboy boot pattern stitching is done with #33 or #46 bonded thread. The seams are combined with #69 or #92 thread. You'll need to stock up on several needle sizes and points, including these: size 12 for #33 thread, size 14 or 16 for #46 thread, size 18 for #69 thread, and size 19 for #92 thread. Most leather is sew with some shape of leather point needle. Some shapes cause staggered stitches. Others lay down a straight inline row.

If you want to sew flat work before combining the edges, get an upholstery class walking foot machine, like a Consew 206rb-5. That machine handles from #18 through #138 thread with ease. It is too strong for #46 and thinner thread, but it could be dumbed down with softer action tension springs.

You may need to use a McKay or Landis sole stitcher to attach soles to the insoles, or welt. It really depends on how you construct the bottoms.  You may be able to just use contact cement.