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LMullins

Handgun Holsters... how to?

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Hey folks, 

I've been getting lots of requests for custom fitted holsters and I've been turning them away because I haven't made one for myself and not sure how I feel about the potential problems that could be brought up.

What suggestions/resources do you folks have? How do you make sure the leather doesn't lose body and become dangerous over time?

Do holsters require a lining?

 

thanks 

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Slickbald customs has a bunch of different patterns. There is a ton of different guys to get patterns from. 

You can also buy Blue Gun molds of the particular firearms you want to make holsters for. 

I would strictly stay with veg-tan on making holsters. 

Couple guys on here got formulas for making holsters. 

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:16:there is a ton of info on this site a search will turn up virtually everything you need to know about holsters. A lot of the real good makers don't repost much and some have left altogether. THe search function is your easy answer.

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To line or not is largely a matter of personal preference.  I've done both.  Lining does increase the complexity.  I'd recommend making unlined first.

There are several tutorials on You Tube for making both holsters and patterns.  Watch a few of those before cutting any leather - you will learn much.  Put "making a leather holster" into your search engine.

I've found that wet molding and forming by hand (I don't own a vacuum machine) to work well for me. 

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I've made a few. I do mostly pancake holsters using info I got for designing them that JLS leatherworks had posted on here a while back. I use Hermann Oak vegtan in 8/9oz with a reinforcing piece on the front. You'll hear arguments both ways about the front piece. It's really not needed in my opinion, but it gives me a place to tool a little and give a color contrast. Lots of you tube videos, Andrew's leatherworks, adam'sleatherworks, road agents leatherwork (I believe that's Chakotay here on the site). If you can, look at adam's leatherworks on you tube, he shows how to design and build several holsters. I use virtually the same process. I also modify my pancake holsters so they can be worn on the front of the chest. This has been a popular design for me with hunters, backpackers,  horse back/quad riders,  or people with large revolvers that can't be easily drawn from the hip. I started hand sewing, but have since bought a cobra class 3 and have not looked back. I also now use a vacuum system to start the molding process. Again, not really needed. I've done many without it. I have a few blue guns. But, at $75 to the door, they get expensive fast. I wrap the gun I'm building for in the plastic you get for moving (saran wrap will work) and use that to mold the gun. I use fiebings pro dye a d resolene cut 50/50 with water inside and out. This gives me a nice finish that hardens up well and still will flex to the hip. I have not seen any cracking of my finish and I have several customers that use them for edc and serious hunting. IL. Post a couple of pics so you can see. PM me if you like. I am not a pro at this, we have several on this site that I aspire to match at some point and hopefully they will respond as well. As far as potential problems. I let my customers know that they are carrying a FIRE ARM, don't be stupid. I haven't had any issues so far. 

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Al Stohlman's book How to Make Holsters gives you all the basics for several types of holsters.  It's available on Ebay, amazon et.

There are dozens of youtube creators that have produced how-to vids on holsters.  Some are detailed and excellent quality, others, not so much.  Tip #1,  be sure to stick with veg tan leather, especially next to the firearm.  Chrome tan can cause corrosion.  Be careful of the youtube vids, there is at least 1 guy who promotes using chrome to line holsters.  Don't do that! 

When I first reentered leather craft about 20 or so years ago, my first project was a Slim Jim holster for my 1858 New Model Army BP revolver.  I used some vague written directions I found on the web somewhere, incorporated some vague memories on how to do things from my childhood leathercraft days, and built a holster that fits, functions and looks just fine, but which I know now was done all wrong.  IMO, if it works, it ain't wrong.  

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You can get craft foam at most places that carry craft supplies. I get it in copy paper sized sheets, about an eighth inch thick. It's great for prototyping. Better than paper and dirt cheap.

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