Members dirk87 Posted February 10 Members Report Posted February 10 (edited) Hello all, I recently started making watch straps as a hobby. I’m collecting allot of info and trying out different things. I wanted to start a topic where i can share my work and findings in the hope it can be of value to someone else. I intend to randomly post my progress and experiences on construction and finishing. Below are my 2 latest straps 1 20 to 16mm taper Outer: buttero biscuit 0.9mm Lining: alran sully gold 0.9mm Inner layer: generic veg tan 0.8mm Thread: meisi superfine linenM40 caramel Stitching: CH 2.7mm Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed 2 20 to 16mm taper Outer: buttero whiskey 0.9mm Lining: zermatt 0.9mm Inner layer: salpa 0.4mm Reinforcement: velodon 0.1mm Thread: meisi superfine linen M40 cream Stitching: CH 2.7mm Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed 3d printed folding jig i’m using: please leave me any comments, questions or critiques… more to follow Edited February 10 by dirk87 Quote
Members Cumberland Highpower Posted February 10 Members Report Posted February 10 (edited) 25 minutes ago, dirk87 said: Hello all, I recently started making watch straps as a hobby. I’m collecting allot of info and trying out different things. I wanted to start a topic where i can share my work and findings in the hope it can be of value to someone else. I intend to randomly post my progress and experiences on construction and finishing. Below are my 2 latest straps 1 20 to 16mm taper Outer: buttero biscuit 0.9mm Lining: alran sully gold 0.9mm Inner layer: generic veg tan 0.8mm Thread: meisi superfine linenM40 caramel Stitching: CH 2.7mm Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed 2 20 to 16mm taper Outer: buttero whiskey 0.9mm Lining: zermatt 0.9mm Inner layer: salpa 0.4mm Reinforcement: velodon 0.1mm Thread: meisi superfine linen M40 cream Stitching: CH 2.7mm Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed 3d printed folding jig i’m using: please leave me any comments, questions or critiques… more to follow 25 minutes ago, dirk87 said: Hello all, I recently started making watch straps as a hobby. I’m collecting allot of info and trying out different things. I wanted to start a topic where i can share my work and findings in the hope it can be of value to someone else. I intend to randomly post my progress and experiences on construction and finishing. Below are my 2 latest straps 1 20 to 16mm taper Outer: buttero biscuit 0.9mm Lining: alran sully gold 0.9mm Inner layer: generic veg tan 0.8mm Thread: meisi superfine linenM40 caramel Stitching: CH 2.7mm Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed 2 20 to 16mm taper Outer: buttero whiskey 0.9mm Lining: zermatt 0.9mm Inner layer: salpa 0.4mm Reinforcement: velodon 0.1mm Thread: meisi superfine linen M40 cream Stitching: CH 2.7mm Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed 3d printed folding jig i’m using: please leave me any comments, questions or critiques… more to follow i think your work looks pretty sharp. Professional. How long did it take you to make the set? Is that hand stitching? I'm not familiar with your leathers, are those leathers produced in Japan or imports from Italy/etc? Edited February 10 by Cumberland Highpower Quote
Members Beehive Posted February 10 Members Report Posted February 10 (edited) I wish you guys would stop using the easy release spring bars. I have to cut that peg to get the spring bar out. I have four Marathon watches. Three jumbo, the GSAR, and the small GSAR. The JSAR is a red maple leaf. Anyway, that quick release is a no go on drilled lugs. Too much worry those Seiko style bars will pop out the lugs. Losing my thousand dollar watch. Wouldn't work on the Damasko DC58 either. I love your craftsmanship. I hate the spring bars. Edited February 10 by Beehive Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 10 Author Members Report Posted February 10 Thank you for your comment, Yes hand stitched, it took me about a day and a half for each. Most of the time spend on the edge finish. Leathers are imports from Italy (buttero) and france(alran sully, zermatt). In japan i’m buying from alleather.com for convenience Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 10 Author Members Report Posted February 10 4 minutes ago, Beehive said: I wish you guys would stop using the easy release spring bars. I have to cut that peg to get the spring bar out. I have four Marathon watches. Three jumbo, the GSAR, and the small GSAR. The JSAR is a red maple leaf. Anyway, that quick release is a no go on drilled lugs. Too much worry those Seiko style bars will pop out the lugs. Losing my thousand dollar watch. Wouldn't work on the Damasko DC58 either. I love your craftsmanship. I hate the spring bars. Thanks for your comment. I understand your opinion about the quick release, however i like them for my own watches for swapping straps and i never had issues on normal drilled lugs, regular use on jlc, oris, tudor. something to keep in mind not everyone likes these QR spring bars Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 10 Author Members Report Posted February 10 58 minutes ago, Beehive said: I wish you guys would stop using the easy release spring bars. I have to cut that peg to get the spring bar out. I have four Marathon watches. Three jumbo, the GSAR, and the small GSAR. The JSAR is a red maple leaf. Anyway, that quick release is a no go on drilled lugs. Too much worry those Seiko style bars will pop out the lugs. Losing my thousand dollar watch. Wouldn't work on the Damasko DC58 either. I love your craftsmanship. I hate the spring bars. I am trying to learn as much as possible about watch straps. Could you please tell me more about this. why do you have to cut it? Do you mean the leather? I have no problems inserting/removing the QR spring bars. As far as i know the regular oblong hole allows this. Is spring bars failing on drilled lugs a thing? As far as i know drilled lugs are the same diameter drill just extended to the outside. Is there any difference with normal partially drilled? Why would it not work on a damasko DC58, as far as i can see they have normal lugs? Quote
Members Beehive Posted February 10 Members Report Posted February 10 31 minutes ago, dirk87 said: I am trying to learn as much as possible about watch straps. Could you please tell me more about this. why do you have to cut it? Do you mean the leather? I have no problems inserting/removing the QR spring bars. As far as i know the regular oblong hole allows this. Is spring bars failing on drilled lugs a thing? As far as i know drilled lugs are the same diameter drill just extended to the outside. Is there any difference with normal partially drilled? Why would it not work on a damasko DC58, as far as i can see they have normal lugs? I prefer the factory spring bars. The quick release bars are a universal sized bar. Seiko sized. Using the Marathon watches, they have massive spring bars that are designed to fit the drilled lugs on their cases. For me to use your quick release strap. I have to remove the spring bars you installed. The peg or lever used to release the spring bar. Has to be cut off so the spring bar can be removed out the strap. Cutting the lever also leaves a sharp edge of metal. That drags through the strap while being removed. It's either that or the stitching has to be removed and sewn back. On the Damasko, the spring bars are curved. Another element that needs addressed. Quote
Members Beehive Posted February 10 Members Report Posted February 10 As a strap maker using those quick release bars. What guarantee do you give me, that it will hold my $5000 dollar watch on my wrist, worry free? Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 10 Author Members Report Posted February 10 (edited) 1 hour ago, Beehive said: I prefer the factory spring bars. The quick release bars are a universal sized bar. Seiko sized. Using the Marathon watches, they have massive spring bars that are designed to fit the drilled lugs on their cases. For me to use your quick release strap. I have to remove the spring bars you installed. The peg or lever used to release the spring bar. Has to be cut off so the spring bar can be removed out the strap. Cutting the lever also leaves a sharp edge of metal. That drags through the strap while being removed. It's either that or the stitching has to be removed and sewn back. On the Damasko, the spring bars are curved. Another element that needs addressed. What does seiko size refer to? both quick release and normal spring bars come in d= 1.5 or 1.8mm and 8-25mm length in 1mm increments. Marathon just supplies regular spring bars, looks like 1.8mm https://www.marathonwatch.com/products/shoulderless-spring-bars?srsltid=AfmBOoqUY5KNh_Ra4gNHDbdwtlgY88xI7pJuJ4FuizA-cdtL_XkHKsAN Drilled vs non drilled just refers to the shoulder. Please correct me if I misunderstand. I don't get why anything has to be cut, if the strap cutout is properly sized there is no problem installing/removing. I get your comment on curved spring bars, experimenting on this, will post some images when I make some progress on this. Just to make it clear, I am not making straps commercially, just trying to learn and evolve my craft. Edited February 10 by dirk87 Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 10 Author Members Report Posted February 10 57 minutes ago, Beehive said: As a strap maker using those quick release bars. What guarantee do you give me, that it will hold my $5000 dollar watch on my wrist, worry free? Thats a real concern i worried about! But I’m pretty sure a patek comes with normal spring bars i don't see any difference in function and reliability between normal vs quick release bars. Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 10 Author Members Report Posted February 10 Just sharing the buildup of my latest strap. from top to bottom: Buttero leather Velodon (folded over) Salamander salpa Zermatt leather And a quick stitching test. 2.7mm pricking irons opened with 1.8mm flat awl. M40 is meisi linen M40 0.4 is Hua linen 0.4mm 0.4P is Hua poly 0.4mm O.3 is Hia line 0.3mm Quote
Members Beehive Posted February 10 Members Report Posted February 10 54 minutes ago, dirk87 said: Thats a real concern i worried about! But I’m pretty sure a patek comes with normal spring bars i don't see any difference in function and reliability between normal vs quick release bars. Yeah, watch straps are no joke. If you plan on selling them. It needs to survive being on the wrist. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week for 1 year. Then it'll be worn to the point it'll need to be replaced. Replaced for the security of the watch. You do excellent work. Quote
Members Cumberland Highpower Posted February 10 Members Report Posted February 10 5 hours ago, Beehive said: As a strap maker using those quick release bars. What guarantee do you give me, that it will hold my $5000 dollar watch on my wrist, worry free? I've been tooling up myself to make leather watch straps. Only by machine. I guess I'll just include "Not for $5000 watches" stamped under size and maker stamping. LOL Quote
Members LeatherLegion Posted February 11 Members Report Posted February 11 Excellent work. A smaller flat awl for the lighter thread would be the only advise. Looks great regardless Quote
Members Scoutmom103 Posted February 11 Members Report Posted February 11 20 hours ago, dirk87 said: Hello all, I recently started making watch straps as a hobby. I’m collecting allot of info and trying out different things. I wanted to start a topic where i can share my work and findings in the hope it can be of value to someone else. I intend to randomly post my progress and experiences on construction and finishing. Below are my 2 latest straps 1 20 to 16mm taper Outer: buttero biscuit 0.9mm Lining: alran sully gold 0.9mm Inner layer: generic veg tan 0.8mm Thread: meisi superfine linenM40 caramel Stitching: CH 2.7mm Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed 2 20 to 16mm taper Outer: buttero whiskey 0.9mm Lining: zermatt 0.9mm Inner layer: salpa 0.4mm Reinforcement: velodon 0.1mm Thread: meisi superfine linen M40 cream Stitching: CH 2.7mm Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed 3d printed folding jig i’m using: please leave me any comments, questions or critiques… more to follow you're watch straps are beautiful. Did you design the 3d printed folding jig? Quote
Members Beehive Posted February 11 Members Report Posted February 11 15 hours ago, Cumberland Highpower said: I've been tooling up myself to make leather watch straps. Only by machine. I guess I'll just include "Not for $5000 watches" stamped under size and maker stamping. LOL The OP has some serious competition. "StrapCode". Average price for a nice leather band. ~$70. Fastest shipping I've ever seen. No idea how they do it. For a person to succeed in the watch strap business. I highly advise going exotic. Stingray, crocodile, elephant, and ostrich. And to the folks buying them, they need to understand, it's only good for a year. It doesn't matter if you spent $500 for two square inches of elephant. Quick release bars....only on a $150 San Martin. Definitely not a $8000 Tudor. Quote
Members Beehive Posted February 11 Members Report Posted February 11 One of my most expensive watches. 22mm lugs. Extremely heavy watch. Ain't no dress watch band gonna hold it. What band could you make me, that'll hold this beast? What band is going to sooth my soul from fearing it ripping a leather strap? Because I'm the customer buying your stuff. Satisfy me. Because like I said. Watch bands are no joke. Quote
Members Darren8306 Posted February 11 Members Report Posted February 11 23 hours ago, dirk87 said: something to keep in mind not everyone likes these QR spring bars I had one of those spring bars lose me a garmin watch a few years ago. I doubt I'll ever use them again. Not that I'm your target market anyway. I have lots of leather to play with, and won't even do it myself. Your work is beautiful, and probably not at all suitable for daily sweating and abuse I wish I could sew as carefully as you have. Quote
Members Cumberland Highpower Posted February 11 Members Report Posted February 11 (edited) 3 hours ago, Beehive said: The OP has some serious competition. "StrapCode". Average price for a nice leather band. ~$70. Fastest shipping I've ever seen. No idea how they do it. For a person to succeed in the watch strap business. I highly advise going exotic. Stingray, crocodile, elephant, and ostrich. And to the folks buying them, they need to understand, it's only good for a year. It doesn't matter if you spent $500 for two square inches of elephant. Quick release bars....only on a $150 San Martin. Definitely not a $8000 Tudor. That's a serious watch. I like it. I appreciate your thoughts and advice. I think for me, personally, would be pretty easy to market straps. I have 2 "machine shops" full of machines already and have been making everything from competitive shooting gear, holsters, belts, slings, tools and other goods on exclusive contract runs for over 20 years. I think I could target a market in the $35 range w/good quality materials and lined with French Calf. Basically the "average" buyer. I personally don't like those QR pins, but I think an "average" buyer with an average watch wants those. I know an Amishman that made a living for 10 years making straps for Nick Gabarro. I'd say I learned a thing or 2 from him along the line. some were from shell cordovan, some nylon, some common chrome leathers. What's motivated me to a degree are the "Trump Tariffs" Some things that were not profitable last week are more likely to be actually profitable in a year. Strap Code's prices are going to go up, maybe 10-60% in the near future? Let's not comment further on my ambitions though, I don't want to hijack the OP's post. I think his work looks pretty sharp and I'd certainly wear it. Edited February 11 by Cumberland Highpower Quote
Members Klara Posted February 11 Members Report Posted February 11 23 hours ago, Beehive said: It needs to survive being on the wrist. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week for 1 year. Then it'll be worn to the point it'll need to be replaced. Replaced for the security of the watch. Do you mind explaining that? The leather watch strap I am wearing right now is only from this summer, and I don't sleep wearing my watch, so it should be good for 2 years. But still... Other leather items I have owned have lasted for years and decades, and when something wore out, it was hardly ever (never, maybe?) the leather, but stitching, hardware, plastic parts... Quote
Members Beehive Posted February 11 Members Report Posted February 11 1 minute ago, Klara said: Do you mind explaining that? The leather watch strap I am wearing right now is only from this summer, and I don't sleep wearing my watch, so it should be good for 2 years. But still... Other leather items I have owned have lasted for years and decades, and when something wore out, it was hardly ever (never, maybe?) the leather, but stitching, hardware, plastic parts... If you're wearing an investment. A watch worth thousands and thousands. For security, you should be replacing a leather strap every year under constant use. I know the strap will physically last a little longer. But buying a fresh strap is insurance against not losing the watch. San Martin, Citizen, Seiko, Orient, Casio. You can get away with using a worn out strap. Two years give or take. Quote
Members Cumberland Highpower Posted February 11 Members Report Posted February 11 On 2/10/2025 at 12:58 PM, dirk87 said: Just sharing the buildup of my latest strap. from top to bottom: Buttero leather Velodon (folded over) Salamander salpa Zermatt leather And a quick stitching test. 2.7mm pricking irons opened with 1.8mm flat awl. M40 is meisi linen M40 0.4 is Hua linen 0.4mm 0.4P is Hua poly 0.4mm O.3 is Hia line 0.3mm I admire this member's dedication to the craft. All that hand stitching just to showcase a sample. Only in Japan! lol Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 12 Author Members Report Posted February 12 On 2/11/2025 at 4:47 AM, Beehive said: Yeah, watch straps are no joke. If you plan on selling them. It needs to survive being on the wrist. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week for 1 year. Then it'll be worn to the point it'll need to be replaced. Replaced for the security of the watch. You do excellent work. True, as mentioned i have no intention in selling. However the quality aspect interests me thats why im experimenting with reinforcements. So far i think Velodon is pretty durable. 15 hours ago, Beehive said: One of my most expensive watches. 22mm lugs. Extremely heavy watch. Ain't no dress watch band gonna hold it. What band could you make me, that'll hold this beast? What band is going to sooth my soul from fearing it ripping a leather strap? Because I'm the customer buying your stuff. Satisfy me. Because like I said. Watch bands are no joke. Nice watch! 11 hours ago, Beehive said: If you're wearing an investment. A watch worth thousands and thousands. For security, you should be replacing a leather strap every year under constant use. I know the strap will physically last a little longer. But buying a fresh strap is insurance against not losing the watch. San Martin, Citizen, Seiko, Orient, Casio. You can get away with using a worn out strap. Two years give or take. Sound true however i think there are allot of differences in construction which can really influence strap degradation. for example a fully veg tan only folded and stitch at the folds is not gonna last as long as a multi layer strap with reinforcement in between. Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 12 Author Members Report Posted February 12 On 2/11/2025 at 10:09 AM, LeatherLegion said: Excellent work. A smaller flat awl for the lighter thread would be the only advise. Looks great regardless Thank you! yes agree, was trying to check which thread size looks the best with my awl. i feel like something in between 0.3mm and meisi M40 would be ideal. Maybe i should try M30 which is supposed to be 0.35mm i also noticed that with a high color contrast thread size looks bigger than with low contrast. Sounds logical but i didn’t realise so far Quote
Members dirk87 Posted February 12 Author Members Report Posted February 12 15 hours ago, Darren8306 said: I had one of those spring bars lose me a garmin watch a few years ago. I doubt I'll ever use them again. Not that I'm your target market anyway. I have lots of leather to play with, and won't even do it myself. Your work is beautiful, and probably not at all suitable for daily sweating and abuse I wish I could sew as carefully as you have. Thank you! Interesting topic because i dont understand mechanically the difference between normal and qr spring bars. I only can imagine the spring bar comes undone due to something catching or moving the lever thingy while wearing. Sounds indeed horrible to lose a watch like that. Quote
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