Adventures in watch strap making

[dirk87]

19 hours ago, Scoutmom103 said:

you're watch straps are beautiful.  Did you design the 3d printed folding jig?

 

Thank you!

Yes, i’m using allot 3d printed tools like cutting templates and jigs.
I like it because i can redesign them on the go and make small improvements or adjustments.

For example cutting templates.
I like to cut and partially finish edges, then measure and adjust/reprint my template. 
A few tenths of a mm can be a big difference on the strap width.

downside is i have box full of NOK tools LOL.

I will post some pictures later of my process and tools. I guess for flat straps i kind of found a structured way to make them. Can also share design files if there is interest 

Edited February 12 by dirk87

[dirk87]

11 hours ago, Cumberland Highpower said:

I admire this member's dedication to the craft.  All that hand stitching just to showcase a sample.  Only in Japan! lol

It had more to do with me being unsure and indecisive and didn’t want to mess it up…

maybe thats in line with Japanese culture LOL 

[Klara]

13 hours ago, Beehive said:

If you're wearing an investment. A watch worth thousands and thousands. For security, you should be replacing a leather strap every year under constant use. 

You still haven't said WHY. Good quality leather lasts a very long time. (And, IMHO, if you are buying a watch as an investment, you shouldn't wear it at all, definitely not 24/7, because it will get swirls or even scratches, which knock quite a lot off the future price. Even if the watch boom should hold, unlike stamp collecting or model trains...)

@dirk87 Sorry for highjacking your thread! Your watch straps are beautiful! 

[dirk87]

 

9 minutes ago, Klara said:

@dirk87 Sorry for highjacking your thread! Your watch straps are beautiful! 

Thank you and no problem highjacking, its an interesting discussion.

I also agree a watch should be worn and there are always risks. Otherwise take an insurance or keep it in a safe as investment but i think there are better things than watches for that.

A well constructed watch strap is a very low risk to fail imo, it should hold up well beyond after the stitches completely fail.

I also deconstructed 2 older (~5 years) straps from oris and certina both were still intact but once opened i could see the reinforcement degrading(some kind of cotton weave i think). Not failing.

Hard to test but i’m sure velodon will hold up much longer. The whole strength of a strap is based on the reinforcement, if its in the right places the leather will not be stretched and should last a very very long time.

[dirk87]

3D printed templates i’m using.
Most of them are not really necessary but its part of the fun for me.

i glue my straps complete in 30mm width, then cutout the buckle pin notch on the short strap, then line up and cutout the outer profile

 

1. 115mm strap cutting outer leather and reinforcement
2. 115mm strap cutting lining and inner layer
3. 115mm strap template
4. Different length gauge for glueing/lining up liner to the folded edge.
5. Gauge to mark fold and skive line at 5/10/20mm
6. 75mm strap template
7. template for glue liner at the fixed keeper side
8. 75mm strap cutting liner
9. 75mm strap cutting inner layer
10. 75mm strap cutting outer layer and reinforcement

Glueing jig for outer/inner layer
Curved jig to glue liner

Edited February 12 by dirk87

[Scoutmom103]

5 hours ago, dirk87 said:

Thank you!

Yes, i’m using allot 3d printed tools like cutting templates and jigs.
I like it because i can redesign them on the go and make small improvements or adjustments.

For example cutting templates.
I like to cut and partially finish edges, then measure and adjust/reprint my template. 
A few tenths of a mm can be a big difference on the strap width.

downside is i have box full of NOK tools LOL.

I will post some pictures later of my process and tools. I guess for flat straps i kind of found a structured way to make them. Can also share design files if there is interest 

That's dedication.   That is very gracious of you, I would be interested in the design files.   

33 minutes ago, dirk87 said:

3D printed templates i’m using.
Most of them are not really necessary but its part of the fun for me.

i glue my straps complete in 30mm width, then cutout the buckle pin notch on the short strap, then line up and cutout the outer profile

 

1. 115mm strap cutting outer leather and reinforcement
2. 115mm strap cutting lining and inner layer
3. 115mm strap template
4. Different length gauge for glueing/lining up liner to the folded edge.
5. Gauge to mark fold and skive line at 5/10/20mm
6. 75mm strap template
7. template for glue liner at the fixed keeper side
8. 75mm strap cutting liner
9. 75mm strap cutting inner layer
10. 75mm strap cutting outer layer and reinforcement

Glueing jig for outer/inner layer
Curved jig to glue liner

Very interesting.  It's amazing what people create with 3d printers.

[Beehive]

5 hours ago, Klara said:

You still haven't said WHY. Good quality leather lasts a very long time. (And, IMHO, if you are buying a watch as an investment, you shouldn't wear it at all, definitely not 24/7, because it will get swirls or even scratches, which knock quite a lot off the future price. Even if the watch boom should hold, unlike stamp collecting or model trains...)

@dirk87 Sorry for highjacking your thread! Your watch straps are beautiful! 

 

Why? Here's why. My last leather strap was a factory Damasko strap. High quality strap for a watch with a price of about $2000. 

That strap lasted me approximately one year. The major wear points are where the buckle contacts the strap. The most wear it encounters is being taken off and on. 

How long do you wear shoes? Do they not wear out? Even the finest quality. 

Again for a third time. Replacing the leather strap on an expensive watch is a guarantee against the strap ripping or coming undone. 

I'll buy your strap. But you better give me a warranty and compensate me if the watch is lost because of your strap. 

Change your own straps if you want or not. I do not care. Not my watch.

 

I'm telling YOU. I switch out MY straps regularly. Buying a fresh one....FROM YOU. Don't you want to sell me a nice fresh strap? Or do you want me going somewhere else because you swear by an old strap that has never let you personally down? 

It's not your watch. This is my watch. I'll buy a fresh strap anytime I want. Either sell me one or not. Because someone else will. It's too simple. I like my watch and I do not want to lose it. 

Edited February 12 by Beehive

[Cumberland Highpower]

I almost bought a Damasko once. One of the more "basic" tool watches.   Decided against it though, it just didn't seem to offer anything a Seiko that looked about the same did.  So I took the Damasko money and bought a spare ATOM SE25 with it. 

I usually can't keep a watch more than 1-2 years.  1 is about the average.  I tend to kill them. Impact. Knocking off the counter, putting in the washing machine, etc. Broke one once hitting my arm on scaffolding.  

Not surprisingly, lost one to the concrete from a failed strap/pin as you point out.

Watches are rarely an investment in honesty.  Maybe 10% are and those are top brands/materials kept in pristine shape.  If I had bought the Damasko, worn it for 2 years  and put it up for sale it would probably bring $400 at best.  The Atom I bought with my Damasko money is worth at least 2k.

 

Edited February 12 by Cumberland Highpower

[Beehive]

I have a 20mm strap in blue Nubuck. Expensive for what it is. It's purely a dress band. Wearing it while going out somewhere nice. It'll last me a decade because I don't wear it that much. It also has a clasp. It's treated gently.

I mowed the yard while wearing the Damasko. Lots of other stuff. Used the watch like it's meant to be. Factory strap gave up after a year. 

[Klara]

7 hours ago, dirk87 said:

I also deconstructed 2 older (~5 years) straps from oris and certina both were still intact but once opened i could see the reinforcement degrading(some kind of cotton weave i think). Not failing.

Hard to test but i’m sure velodon will hold up much longer.

That's pretty much what I think...

2 hours ago, Beehive said:

How long do you wear shoes? Do they not wear out?

I don't know because by the time I throw them away I have forgotten when I bought them. I think the shortest a pair recently lasted was 2 years, and that was fabric and plastic running shoes - not good quality leather. 

 

2 hours ago, Beehive said:

I'll buy your strap. 

No, because I'm not selling you anything.  

 

1 hour ago, Cumberland Highpower said:

Watches are rarely an investment in honesty.  Maybe 10% are and those are top brands/materials kept in pristine shape.  If I had bought the Damasko, worn it for 2 years  and put it up for sale it would probably bring $400 at best.

That's the thing. The used watches that sell for more than current  purchase price are those that everybody wants and can't get. Rolex first and foremost... I prefer to have a variety of nice but cheap mechanical and solar quartz watches which I wear according to mood and circumstances and don't need to worry about. But then, as a woman I can wear jewellery that's actually seen

[Beehive]

If I was a strap maker. For which I'm definitely not. You guys...and gals that are.

If someone walked up to me and wanted me to make a nice leather alligator strap(My favorite leather for a strap.) Holding some Rolex day-date that belonged to Grandpa. 

Oh No, not me. I'd tell them in a firm but fair way. Hades.. No. 

Too much liability. 

Edited February 12 by Beehive

[dirk87]

On 2/12/2025 at 9:36 PM, Scoutmom103 said:

That's dedication.   That is very gracious of you, I would be interested in the design files. 

Let me organize my files and find a place to upload.

[dirk87]

I thought it might be useful to share my way of constructing straps for anyone who also wants to start with it. This is the way that works for me after experimenting allot but by no means the only or best way.

 

This is my build up:

 

 

I make everything in 30mm width and finally cut out to strap size. I find this makes it easier to keep the spring bar hole perpendicular and its also easier for the buckle pin hole ( i cut this first before cutting the strap to size)

For flat straps i really like 1mm outer and lining, 0,1mm reinforcement and salpa inner 0.4 to 0.8 depending on the stiffness of the outer layer or the final thickness i want.

Imgur linked picture above should show all of my steps

-
Edit: i think above doesn’t link to all the pictures.
This link should https://imgur.com/gallery/B6YZv7a
-

1. Cutting all panels to size, i created templates to get the correct length.
2. Skiving the fold edges of outer layer and lining.
3. Glueing the outer layer and reinforcement together. I leave the fold edge unglued so i can fold them over separately later to prevent wrinkles inside the fold.
   Using 0.9mm Togo and 0.1mm velodon here.
4. Glueing the inner layer on the reinforcement. Using 0.6mm salpa here.
5. Glueing and folding over the reinforcement, then the same with the outer layer. I avoid glue on the spring bar locations so i can press everything together but open back up later on.
6. Roughing and applying glue on the the fold over part. Using a 4.0mm guide
7. Applying the liner, glue is applied on both side across the whole length but i only glue the first 5mm together
8. Glueing the complete liner on a curved jig
9. Line up template and cutout the final strap size

 

More to follow on finishing and construction of the short side with buckle…

Edited Friday at 02:39 PM by dirk87

[Klara]

Thank you! I might refer to that when I make my next straps

[dirk87]

On 2/13/2025 at 1:36 AM, Beehive said:

If I was a strap maker. For which I'm definitely not. You guys...and gals that are.

If someone walked up to me and wanted me to make a nice leather alligator strap(My favorite leather for a strap.) Holding some Rolex day-date that belonged to Grandpa. 

Oh No, not me. I'd tell them in a firm but fair way. Hades.. No. 

Too much liability. 

I understand your concerns but I don’t get your reasoning. Again i have no intend on selling anything myself bit this would mean there is not allot you can sell commercially. As a business you should be confident in your product and be covered by insurance anyways for liability. 
In this reasoning I couldn’t imagine any company or business selling saddlery for example, think about the liabilities there.

Anyways i get a few valuable points from this discussion and would like to elaborate on this from a point of improving the things i make.

1. Quick release spring bars:
What does make these inferior? I cant see mechanically any difference in strength, the 2 only risks i see are becoming undone by accidentally pulling the leaver ( friction agains wrist,..) or the strap being weaker because of the cutout. Would appreciate opinions or experiences with this.

2. Longevity of the strap:
I understood failing starts at the closure point which i can understand. Are these straps reinforced completely or just at the folds? I also cant imagine a watch failing when a strap is worn at the closure even if there is a rip between 2 holes. Just trying to understand failure points, would appreciate if there are experiences or pictures to share.

Thank you all

[dirk87]

17 minutes ago, Klara said:

Thank you! I might refer to that when I make my next straps

Please do and feel free to ask any questions, i did quite allot of experimenting and still am. Happy to exchange ideas and experiences.  
 

[Beehive]

4 minutes ago, dirk87 said:

I understand your concerns but I don’t get your reasoning. Again i have no intend on selling anything myself bit this would mean there is not allot you can sell commercially. As a business you should be confident in your product and be covered by insurance anyways for liability. 
In this reasoning I couldn’t imagine any company or business selling saddlery for example, think about the liabilities there.

Anyways i get a few valuable points from this discussion and would like to elaborate on this from a point of improving the things i make.

1. Quick release spring bars:
What does make these inferior? I cant see mechanically any difference in strength, the 2 only risks i see are becoming undone by accidentally pulling the leaver ( friction agains wrist,..) or the strap being weaker because of the cutout. Would appreciate opinions or experiences with this.

2. Longevity of the strap:
I understood failing starts at the closure point which i can understand. Are these straps reinforced completely or just at the folds? I also cant imagine a watch failing when a strap is worn at the closure even if there is a rip between 2 holes. Just trying to understand failure points, would appreciate if there are experiences or pictures to share.

Thank you all

 

If the diameter of the spring bars doesn't match the diameter of the hole in the lug. It'll damage the case. 

 

I have a quick release. I have 3 or 4 of them. Pull out a loupe and look. A spring bar that doesn't fill the lug hole causes the lug hole to elongate. 

I removed all but one quick release and went with the factory spring bars. The one I kept is used on a Seiko clone. Where it properly fits. No way would I use it on my Squale.  

If you're not trying to sell bands. How many watches do you have? 

 

[dirk87]

Ok, makes sense but has nothing at all to do with the spring bars being QR or not. As far as i know spring bars (both QR and normal) come in 1.5 or 1.8 mm, assumed the pin ends were the same diameter. Something for me to check, thanks this helps me

20 minutes ago, Beehive said:

If you're not trying to sell bands. How many watches do you

A few but how is this relevant? I stated from the beginning i am not intending to sell anything, this is just a hobby.

Does everyone here starting with leatherworking make 1 wallet and then call it a day, you surely don’t need more than 1 wallet.
I am just trying to get better at all the skills and think watch straps are a good way to do this.

[Beehive]

2 minutes ago, dirk87 said:

Ok, makes sense but has nothing at all to do with the spring bars being QR or not. As far as i know spring bars (both QR and normal) come in 1.5 or 1.8 mm, assumed the pin ends were the same diameter. Something for me to check, thanks this helps me

A few but how is this relevant? I stated from the beginning i am not intending to sell anything, this is just a hobby.

Does everyone here starting with leatherworking make 1 wallet and then call it a day, you surely don’t need more than 1 wallet.
I am just trying to get better at all the skills and think watch straps are a good way to do this.

 

And I want you to succeed and be the best. Nothing more. Plus, I don't want you losing a watch either. Giving up making straps because of a spring bar.

 

I'm on your side. 

[dirk87]

Genuinely appreciate your feedback, i never really thought about failures or reliability in this way so that improves what i’m making

[dirk87]

The more feedback the better if anyone has experimented please share your thoughts 

 

 

[dirk87]

Some more sharing…

I had some difficulty centring my buckle pin cutouts so i ended up doing it this way.
I cut it before i cut to final size, this way i can align my template perfectly. 

I am using a round punch an then cut the straight edges with a knife. Not 100% satisfied with this method. If you have an alternative way please leave me a comment. I was thinking about this nattools cutter, does anyone have experience with it?https://junlinleather.com/products/nattools-watch-strap-buckle-punch

 

This is how i finish the buckle side.
Completely paint and finish the edge like this then glue in the fixed keeper and touch up the edge paint.

Anyone using a different method? 
I saw in a hermes video they kind of open it up after it was fully glued and insert the keeper but i don't really get it how that works.

[LeatherLegion]

On 2/14/2025 at 9:07 AM, dirk87 said:

I thought it might be useful to share my way of constructing straps for anyone who also wants to start with it. 

 

Not a lot a people share their knowledge anymore for free. Even though , probably i was never gonna make a watch strap , THANK YOU  for sharing ...i might actually make one now.

[dirk87]

Thank you~, very kind.

Please do, its fun
 

[dirk87]

I have a question for people who have experience with bonded leather, in particular salamander salpa.

As i posted before, i use an inner layer to build up thickness(and make a nicer spring bar hole after folding over), lets say im using from 0.4mm-0.8mm depending on the strap thickness i want. 

i am now using salpa for this and quite like the feeling and stiffness of the finished strap.

My question is, does anyone has experience with the longevity of salpa?
I read allot about bonded leather not being ideal for high stretching and bending. But in this application its backed up with velodon so there is basically no stretch but there is allot of bending at the buckle.

Would a layer of shoulder, belly or just split be better here?