Best way to tighten Chicago Screws?

[DeWayne Hayes]

Folks, I have made a holster that has some Chicago Screws, and I can't figure a good way to tighten them when one side is domed/slotless. Finger pressure goes so far, but then the domed side just turns.  Does anyone have a trick?  Rubber washer, maybe?  Contact cement in place of a washer on the domed side?  Anything else? 

Thanks,

DeWayne

 

 

Edited Thursday at 01:37 PM by DeWayne Hayes

[JREESER1]

I always add a small drop of blue Locktite into the inside (female) threads. Then, put just enough pressure with very light touch of loose adjusted small vise grips to the edge of female side of the screw, so you will not mar the screw and lightly tighten. Never had any problems.

[AlZilla]

I think some of the problem is when the material thickness is such that the screw bottoms out before the material compresses significantly. A rubber washer between the flap and the holster may help in your case. Or the locktite, which I've never tried. 

In my case, I stopped using domed Chicago screws. I now use ones that have a slot on one side and an Allen socket on the other.

[DeWayne Hayes]

Thanks, folks.  My leather is thick enough that the screw isn't bottoming out, it just can't grab firmly enough on the leather to really dig in and stop spinning. It tightens ok, just not as tight as I'd like. This is only exacerbated by the fact that when I attach the second one, I can no longer get my finger in there to hold it as there's no room. I think I may try a drop of contact cement on the lip of that female domed head. I suspect that's going to stop the spinning. Worst case scenario, the leather loop it's attaching to can be replaced easily enough if I ever have to. 

This was the first western style revolver holster I've made - all my holster making to this point has been thumb-break style for automatics. Being able to connect a loop in the back with Chicago Screws is such a pleasure - saves a ton of stitching for the belt loop. 

 

 

[PastorBob]

17 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

I think some of the problem is when the material thickness is such that the screw bottoms out before the material compresses significantly. A rubber washer between the flap and the holster may help in your case. Or the locktite, which I've never tried. 

In my case, I stopped using domed Chicago screws. I now use ones that have a slot on one side and an Allen socket on the other.

@AlZilla

I have never seen that style.  Where are you sourcing them.

 

6 minutes ago, DeWayne Hayes said:

Thanks, folks.  My leather is thick enough that the screw isn't bottoming out, it just can't grab firmly enough on the leather to really dig in and stop spinning. It tightens ok, just not as tight as I'd like. This is only exacerbated by the fact that when I attach the second one, I can no longer get my finger in there to hold it as there's no room. I think I may try a drop of contact cement on the lip of that female domed head. I suspect that's going to stop the spinning. Worst case scenario, the leather loop it's attaching to can be replaced easily enough if I ever have to. 

This was the first western style revolver holster I've made - all my holster making to this point has been thumb-break style for automatics. Being able to connect a loop in the back with Chicago Screws is such a pleasure - saves a ton of stitching for the belt loop. 

 

 

Beautiful holster too!!!

[BlackDragon]

First of all, that's a beautiful holster!!

I recently started buying holster hardware from this company. The screws have a rubber washer on them and it helps a lot with tightening.

https://www.holstersmith.com/vcom/hardware-mounting-assemblies-c-553_560.html

[Northmount]

7 hours ago, DeWayne Hayes said:

Folks, I have made a holster that has some Chicago Screws, and I can't figure a good way to tighten them when one side is domed/slotless.

I use a JP Tack Tool like this.  Or like this one. 

[AlZilla]

@PastorBob

These are a slot and a Philips. Somewhere I have slot/Allen, too. When I get to a big computer I'll find the Amazon link, because that's where I actually ordered from.

[AlZilla]

43 minutes ago, Northmount said:

I use a JP Tack Tool like this.  Or like this one. 

Well, that is cool. The first one won't load for me but the second one does. In the OPs case, that one won't get deep enough to help him, but still very cool.

[Northmount]

19 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

Well, that is cool. The first one won't load for me but the second one does. In the OPs case, that one won't get deep enough to help him, but still very cool.

Loads for me.  It has even less reach.  It would be relatively easy to modify the reach, or build one with longer reach.  Just need to see the idea to make one.

[TomG]

2 hours ago, Northmount said:

I use a JP Tack Tool like this.  Or like this one. 

I use the one from Weaver. Pricey, but worth it.
Be sure to order a few spare rubber 'faces' for the jaws. They will wear out over time. I used to make specialty leashes that had about 8 Chicago screws holding things together.
I used a small drill with a Phillips bit to set them. I also used the blue Harbor Freight version of Loc-Tite. 
Worked great.

[fredk]

That one on Weaver started out life as valve sleeve installers.* I once had them for installing valves on my cars

PS. the first one opens a page but no picture shows on it

*edit; just remembered the name; valve spring compressor

Edited Friday at 02:39 AM by fredk

[PastorBob]

13 hours ago, AlZilla said:

@PastorBob

These are a slot and a Philips. Somewhere I have slot/Allen, too. When I get to a big computer I'll find the Amazon link, because that's where I actually ordered from.

Thanks!

[Samalan]

Cut a slot in each side a pair of pliers in the nose end very close to the front surface with a Dremel tool, grind the nose to a very slight dish, this will hold the smooth side of your screw, then use some blue when you put it together. this is the best way, IMHO, that is to say, I have never found anything better and don't need to.

 

[Northmount]

11 hours ago, fredk said:

the first one opens a page but no picture shows on it

[DeWayne Hayes]

That's a cool tool when there is clearance on both sides, but I could never get it in there between the flap and the holster without bending or scarring the leather. The flap is pressed down tight to the holster body. 

I'm thinking a thin rubber washer or, as I said, a spot of contact cement might be my strategy. I'll try the rubber washer tactic first and see how it does. 

Thanks, folks. 

DeWayne

 

 

[fredk]

12 hours ago, fredk said:

That one on Weaver started out life as valve sleeve installers.* I once had them for installing valves on my cars

*edit; just remembered the name; valve spring compressor

I wonder if valve spring compressor proper would do the job. They usually can be bought in automotive supply stores or at garage sale for few bucks

@Northmount ; thank you

[Northmount]

29 minutes ago, fredk said:

I wonder if valve spring compressor proper would do the job. They usually can be bought in automotive supply stores or at garage sale for few bucks

@Northmount ; thank you

I guess it depends on the style.  One my Dad had, had a screw handle on it instead of a lever.  The one I have reaches around the head (valve in head) and has a long cumbersome reach for something like this.  The screw clamp reached in the side of the engine block for the valve in block engine.

This would be the type of clamp, locking pliers, vice-grip (multiple trade names) to modify to make a long reach Chicago Screw clamp.  Has lots of height, lots more than needed, could be lengthened for longer reach, and could be modified so one side can be slide inside a small space.  Wouldn't be too hard to do.  Make ends like the Weaver clamp.

I had a welding clamp very similar to this one.  Maybe wasn't designed for welding as the spring failed!  Probably didn't like high current flow circulating thru the clamp when the 2 objects being welded didn't have a good electrical connection.  Gave it to my son along with my 325 A AC welder and some other welding tools.

Edited Friday at 03:25 PM by Northmount
added comment

[fredk]

2 hours ago, fredk said:

I wonder if valve spring compressor proper would do the job.

On second thoughts. they would not do the OP. The screw bar would be on the wrong side as it were

[DeWayne Hayes]

Just circling back, folks. I tried the contact cement route and it seemed to work fine. Just a few dabs on the lip of the interior (domed, slotless) female end, and a little on the leather, wait 15-min, and she tightens up nicely now. Don't expect to ever need to take those female ends off the leather loop they're glued to, so should be good to go. 

Thanks for helping me brainstorm this. 

[Northmount]

On 5/9/2025 at 11:05 AM, fredk said:

On second thoughts. they would not do the OP. The screw bar would be on the wrong side as it were

That is similar to mine.  Below is the style my Dad used (for valve in block).  Neither of these would make a good tool for Chicago screws.

[Brokenolmarine]

I bought molar extraction pliers on amazon to use for removing rivets in leather if I messed them up, or had a belt or holster in need of repair.  The pliers work great to hold the edge of chicago screws for removal or installation as well.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/305751247935

[TonyV]

Chicago screw is a simple fastener.  A simple solution is in order.  Chicago screws with a rubber washer is fine, if you want to buy them. In the mean time, if the only C screws you have don't include a rubber washer, simply use a small drop of rubber in the spot where the washer would fit.  Give it a couple minutes to dry, and voila, you have a rubber washer, thanks to the rubber cement you likely already have on hand.

C screws dont need to be real tight, either.  I get good results simply holding the base with a fingertip while I tighten the screw.

Edited 19 hours ago by TonyV

[chuck123wapati]

I used to use a small set of needle-nose pliers and Locktite until I figured out they were much more expensive than rivets to install permanently. now I just use them for mock-up or adjustment purposes.

[Frodo]

I use a toothpick with a drop of liquid cement to glue the dome part to the leather, then a drop of loctite on the threads  If I run into a situation where thickness is an issue I add a leather spacer in between the pieces of leather

Spacer can be simply made by using 1/2" hole punch then punching a hole center of the piece you dig out of your punch.