Sewing Leather on a Juki

[Lego Mum]

Hello Everyone! How wonderful to find your group!

I am considering purchasing a second-hand (third hand?!) Juki sewing machine, and am hoping to sew purses, handbags, etc. with it.

As an avid sewist for many years, I am wondering about the fact, that the model that I am considering does not have a 'free arm'. 

I have used that feature many times on domestic sewing machines, and am wondering what any of you might have to say about sewing leather, without (!) a 'free arm'....?! (As I mentioned, I would like to sew purses and bags, and suspect that 'getting into a hole/opening' might be easier with a 'free arm' than not...?!?!)

Also, I am wondering if it's easy to install zippers with a leather sewing machine?

Thanks in advance!

Lego Mum

[Northmount]

3 hours ago, Lego Mum said:

As an avid sewist for many years, I am wondering about the fact, that the model that I am considering does not have a 'free arm'. 

Moved your post to leather sewing machines.  This is where the machine guys hang out.  So you'll get answers here.

Instead of the term 'free arm' look for cylinder bed.  You can get table attachments so can have a flat bed as well.

[Lego Mum]

Thank you SO much for intervening...🙂..and moving my question to the correct location!

Yes, I have looked up the terms "cylinder bed"...and that makes great sense!

That is why I wonder, if a JUKI walking foot machine (with no cylinder bed) will still make bag and purses easily....?!?!

Thanks Northmount....greatly appreciated!!

Lego Mum🙂

[kgg]

6 hours ago, Lego Mum said:

Yes, I have looked up the terms "cylinder bed"...and that makes great sense!

That is why I wonder, if a JUKI walking foot machine (with no cylinder bed) will still make bag and purses easily....?!?!

There are two basic styles of machines cylinder arm and flatbed machines. The term "free arm" I think came from the introduction of the Singer model 222k Featherweight back in the 1940's that had a "free-arm sleeve". That reference to the style then got further shorten to "free arm" by the domestic sewers.

There are basically three common forms of how material fabric or leather is moved along to the rear of the machine.

i) by the feed dog along with a drop down presser foot that just keeps tension on the material as the needle enters. Typically seen in domestic sewing machines.

ii) by the feed dog along with a presser foot that keeps tension on the material but moves in coordination with the feed dog to move the material along. Typically referred to as a walking foot machine.

iii) The same as walking foot with the additional feature of the needle also moving the material along. Typically referred to as a compound or triple feed.

To short answer to your question of whether a walking foot flatbed machine will sew bags and purses easily  the answer is No. Things that are flat like a wallet or belt is best sewn on a flatbed machine and things that are round are best sewn on cylinder arm machines. Keep in mind that you can sorta kinda turn a cylinder arm into a flatbed machine with a flatbed attachment but you can not turn a flatbed machine into a cylinder arm machine.

If you come across a machine but are unsure of it's capabilities just ask but include the model of the machines you are looking at. I am sure someone can give you the pro's and con's for most models and manufacturers.

Example: Flatbed Juki DU 1181n (walking foot) Juki DNU 1541S (compound feed) Cylinder Arm Juki LS 341 or LS 1341 (compound feed)

 

 

[RockyAussie]

All good points mentioned by @kgg and in case it helps any we use the machine in this video for the majority of the work we produce. At about 1 minute in you can see me stitching in a difficult zipper. The machine is a clone of the Juki DSC 246 and Techsew have a version as well named a 2600. Maybe easier to get up in your side of the globe. 

I am unsure if there is a flatbed attachment for them but as @kgg is up in your part of the world I do have a file done that would enable him to print it if he likes. Here is a link to a video that shows what I am talking about - 

 

[Lego Mum]

How wonderful to see (and read) your MOST helpful comments, kgg and RockyAussie...Thank you BOTH greatly!

Yes, of course 🙃...I should have included the model of the specific machine (!) in order to receive specific answers! That's great advice as well....thanks!

I am looking at a Juki LU-563 for sewing leather bags, purses, etc. I have been considering the "order/sequence" of sewing various "bits" to make the flatbed work...although a cylinder machine sounds amazing (!)....it is out of my price range, at the moment....alas...

Kgg....you have educated me well 😊..on the "feeding" of material (including leather) through a machine. RockyAussie...I can't WAIT to view your kindly offered videos 😊...but I soon have to leave the house...so later in the day, I will watch - and learn!

Yes...I can surely SEE how a cylinder arm can be turned into a flatbed machine...quite easily. (Perhaps I will learn a bit on this machine...?...and when I start making my millions 😃 (!?!?!?)....I'll be able to afford a cylinder-arm machine!

'Much appreciation again - to you ALL - for helping me understand these things.

As mentioned, I am NEW to leather work and to industrial machines (but not to sewing!) and am DELIGHTED to hear from you VERY helpful folks!

Thanks greatly!

[kgg]

29 minutes ago, Lego Mum said:

I am looking at a Juki LU-563 for sewing leather bags, purses, etc.

Overall a good brand name flatbed machine however they are getting really long in the tooth, old. If the machine was used in a commercial environment be very very careful as chances are it was beat to death and have someone check the machine out even if it is being sold by a vendor. You don't want any unexpected repairs. Some photo's would help determine it overall condition. That said if was owned by a hobbyist from the beginning it could be a very good machine.

What are they asking for the machine???

What is your realistic budget???? 

If it is the one in the Kijiji add for $750?? https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-business-industrial/oakville-halton-region/juki-563-industrial-sewing-machine/1714150747

If it is then right off the bat you will need to change the motor from a clutch motor to servo motor so add another $200 to the price so now you will be up to $950. The reason for the motor change is unless you are use to using clutch motors the learning curve can be very steep. A servo motor is a lot less noisy, more energy efficient as they are not running all the time and it will give you the controllable speed needed for sewing leather items. 

It is an ex commercial machine and has been used a lot by the wear on the flatbed.

Ask for a picture of the underside of the machine particularly the timing belt as if it is worn out it will probably cost another $200 for it's replacement.

kgg

[Lego Mum]

I want to say HUGE thanks to kgg and to RockyAussie, for sending me such HELPFUL information, as I endeavoured to purchase a previously-owned leather sewing machine.

I recently bought a Juki Lu-563 and I wanted to share a photo with you...! I cannot WAIT to get it going....just need some oil and I'll be good to go!

'Hope all is well - with each of you (!) in the Leather-Sewing-World!

Thanks again for ALL of your help....so GREATLY appreciated!🙂

[dikman]

Congratulations - but be careful, buying leather sewing machines can be addictive!! As kgg said, the 563 has been around a long time but as long as it has been maintained it should serve you well. A bit of advice, replace the clutch motor with a servo, you don't have to buy an expensive one as anything will be better than that clutch motor.

Happy sewing.

[Lego Mum]

Thanks Mr. dikman....addictive indeed....I can SURELY see how....! As a matter of fact...I have a servo motor on the way...it is in the post...and due to arrive at any time...! The clutch motor that it came with...well...I think I could stitch pavement together with it....WOW...it's fast...!

Thanks for your reply and information! Happy sewing to you as well! 🙂

[RockyAussie]

A big congratulations on getting your first industrial machine. I look forward to seeing some pics of your bags and purses as you go. 

 

[Lego Mum]

Thanks RockyAussie for your ENCOURAGEMENT....yet again! It is MOST helpful!! I will try to keep you all posted...as I LEARN my machine....and try not to purchase too many others (dikman!)....although if I won a million dollars....I KNOW where that cash might go! 😄

[AlZilla]

That looks like a nice machine. And it has REVERSE! I have the similar Singer 111W153 and 111W151 but neither has reverse.

Looking back through this thread I don't see that anyone mentioned a speed reducer to go with that servo.  You should read up on them in case you still find it a bit fast. Maybe with hand bags there won't be any need to dead slow sewing.

Have fun!

[kgg]

12 hours ago, Lego Mum said:

I want to say HUGE thanks to kgg and to RockyAussie, for sending me such HELPFUL information,

Glad to be of some help.

kgg

[Lego Mum]

WONDERFUL help....truly! 😊 I am soooo grateful for any/all input, help and information. I am completely NEW to this leather world....! (This is an incredible "on-line" community with such a vastness of experiences and information....and people willing to share what they've learned!)

Thank you....!

[Lego Mum]

Thanks AIZilla...for the suggestion of a speed reducer! I have heard about them...and will consider getting one....I have just (minutes ago!) received my servo motor.....so I'll give that a try; and perhaps I will need to slow down even more...! (That clutch motor is incredibly fast...!)

Thanks for your information!😊

[dikman]

Al, I deliberately didn't mention a speed reducer as it can all be a bit overwhelming to a newcomer, but since you did ..........Lego Mum, try the servo first but if you still find it a wee bit fast at times then a speed reducer is the next step, just a tad more complicated than merely adding a servo. There have been many posts on here about speed reducers but if you think you need one feel free to ask about options.

[AlZilla]

@dikman, I hear you.  On my 151 and 153, they'll punch through whatever fits under the presser foot with a half horse servo and a speed reducer. Without the reducer it starts to get dicey at about 10 ounces of veg tan.  She's got the servo,so we'll know pretty quick.