Moderator bruce johnson Posted May 8, 2007 Moderator Report Posted May 8, 2007 Wayne. I would probably try a pear shader first, and then smooth over that with a matting tool. If the matting tools have too much checkering for your tastes, you can smooth them up by running some emery paper over the face. Bruce Johnson Quote Bruce Johnson Malachi 4:2 "the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com
Members whinewine Posted May 8, 2007 Members Report Posted May 8, 2007 Guys, thank for all the help.I am 99% sure this was done by a pear shader. After studying this one and others it does not seem like it would be plausible to do a layered strap. This strap is really that big. It is 5-6mm thick. These straps are not your average watch strap, they are thick and big. I am going to get some 10oz tooling leather and go to town with my pear shader. Any thoughts on how best to do the flat parts beside the curvy parts? I know I could stamp down that area, but what is the best tool? Thanks again. 10oz leather seems WAY too heavy for a watchband. If you look carefully at the tip itself, it looks like there is some sort of a seam with 2 layers. I'd opt for glue &/or press (with an embossing clicker) work on this, rather than pear shading- it seems too regular for pear shading, IMHO. I would say, try to replicate this by pear shading. I'm sure everyone would like to see your results & your thoughts afterward. Good luck! Quote
Members wayner123 Posted May 9, 2007 Author Members Report Posted May 9, 2007 Well all, It turns out the 1% I wasn't sure about is the answer. I finally tracked down the maker and he said that it was layered. So I was 99% wrong. Now the question comes, what type of glue would hold those well enough and allow you to mold it to the plug? I usually just use barge, but I don't think it would allow me to overlay the top layer onto the plug and mold it before it dried/became sticky. Any ideas? Quote
Contributing Member Regis Posted May 9, 2007 Contributing Member Report Posted May 9, 2007 I would think that you would form the leather first and just fill it with leather dust and glue. Then add backing. Just my guess. Regis Quote God, Family, and Country (although liberals are attempting to destroy these in the USA)
Moderator Art Posted May 9, 2007 Moderator Report Posted May 9, 2007 Hi Wayne, Why not mold the top wet, let it dry, then go back and barge or better yet use one of the resin glues (white glues) like Fiebings Leather Weld that have some work time to them. Art Well all,It turns out the 1% I wasn't sure about is the answer. I finally tracked down the maker and he said that it was layered. So I was 99% wrong. Now the question comes, what type of glue would hold those well enough and allow you to mold it to the plug? I usually just use barge, but I don't think it would allow me to overlay the top layer onto the plug and mold it before it dried/became sticky. Any ideas? Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members wayner123 Posted May 9, 2007 Author Members Report Posted May 9, 2007 Man, you guys are great!!! Now all I have left to do is figure out what leather to use. I want it to be around 10oz thickness. So I was thinking of 3 layers of 3oz. But I don't need a whole side, and it needs to be fairly soft leather. Also would have to be able to be dyed. I am not that familiar with leather other than color, so what type of leather should I get? Quote
Ambassador The Major Posted May 9, 2007 Ambassador Report Posted May 9, 2007 Man, you guys are great!!!Now all I have left to do is figure out what leather to use. I want it to be around 10oz thickness. So I was thinking of 3 layers of 3oz. But I don't need a whole side, and it needs to be fairly soft leather. Also would have to be able to be dyed. I am not that familiar with leather other than color, so what type of leather should I get? Your top layer will need to be around .3mm in order to get the look of that original. Goat molds the best. You can get veg tanned goat from Siegals and skive it down or get pre-colored book binders goat which is already the thickness you need but you are stuck with solid colors. I would use a 2 oz cow for the backing and 2 layers of the 2 oz for the plugs so you can sculpt them. As for the glue, Art hit it on the head - use the white tanners bond glue. Just my $0.02 Quote Shawn Zoladz (The Major) dba Major Productions Everything Leather Saddles and Shoes Excluded You can lead me. You can follow me. Or you can get the hell out of my way. -Gen. Geo. S. Patton
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