How do I make this watch strap?

[wayner123]

Hello all,

I am new to this board and after searching and reading for a while I am really digging this place. You all defintely have some talent!!

I included a picture of a watch strap I would like to do a similar design of. I don't plan to copy it (that wouldn't be right) but it shows what type of depth I am looking for. This is 10oz tooling leather. My questions are these:

1. What tool(s) are needed in order to get this type of depth? If you notice the wavy pattern that goes the length of the strap, it is fairly raised. I have tried to figure out which tool(s) would be best to do this but all the bevel's I have seen would be to thin to allow for such a groove.

2. The center "groove" that runs down the center and has holes punched in it, I couldn't find a bevel to make this large of a groove. Only thing that came close was a wood groover. Is that typical to use a wood groover on leather?

These are just some questions I have. If you have any tips or any other advice, please tell me. It will be greatly appreciated.

Close up:

Edited May 7, 2007 by wayner123

[Roger]

are you sure that is not laminated?

kinda looks something that would be made from three pieces of leather

[The Major]

are you sure that is not laminated?

kinda looks something that would be made from three pieces of leather

I would agree. Base, plugs, and covered with a light weight leather like goat.

Or it was done in a press.

[wayner123]

Thanks for the help so far.

So are you saying this is not possible to carve this with leather tools?

I don't know for certain, but I am 90% sure this is just tooled/carved. There aren't any layers that show. It would be much easier to carve this, than do multiple layers for a laminate.

Plus how do you explain the groove down the center?

This is claimed to be 100% handmade, so no press involved.

[Roger]

i don't see any signs of caving or tooling. it looks like the design is cut to shape and sandwiched between the top and bottom.

[wayner123]

Ok thanks.

So you are saying take 3-5oz leather as base.

Then, put some sort of filler (what would be best here? leather or foam?)

Then form over the two layers a light weight (1oz or less) leather.

The just trim the edges and it would be complete?

Is there some sort of terminology for this type of design? I know they do it a lot in custom upholstery leather where they have a raised design in the seat. Is this the same process?

[Roger]

not sure of the correct tems but as the major said the center piece is the "plug" and should be made from leather. the top layer 1-2oz and soft so that it will contour easily to the plug

[Dale]

My initial thought is that the current prevailing opinion of an embossed plug is correct. But I think there's something else going on, here, too. There appears to be a lot of depth for a watch band. To me, anything more than 3-4 oz is pushing the comfort level for a watch band. So, two additional thoughts come to mind. The first one is that proper lighting could make the piece look thicker in the photograph than it actually is. The other is that something thinner than we're used to using (bookbinding leather, maybe?) was used over the plug. If I were to try to simulate that look by "carving," I would use only a pear shader.

All that being said, I'd be curious how well this thing actually fits the wrist and watch buckle. It looks wicked cool, but it may not wear very well. Let us know what you find out.

[bruce johnson]

I am kind with Dale on this, the depth can be a photo effect. The grain surface of this leather looks a little "porous". Either goat or some of the other grainy (and easily embossed) leathers may be used here over a plug. The other choice may be some of the flankier part of a cowhide, that has that grainy look and is easily compressed to great depths. That particular part of the cowhide wouldn't be my first choice for a watch strap, but we,ve all seen where somebody uses the whole side with no waste. And what better place to use up a small scrap than a watchband?

The one thing I am seeing too that makes me think flank and not plugged is the loop. Who would plug a loop? Much easier to mash down the edges of some fluff.

That said, I am not seeing any edge stitching, and wonder about whether this isn't an embossing press and cement job. Just because they say it is handmade, doesn't mean you can't run press by hand (I do). I think someone mentioned a while back on another group that at a craft fair, someone was passing their work off as "hand stitched". They were using a Boss and running it "by hand". LOL. All in how you look at the glass.

Bruce Johnson

[wayner123]

Guys, thank for all the help.

I am 99% sure this was done by a pear shader. After studying this one and others it does not seem like it would be plausible to do a layered strap.

This strap is really that big. It is 5-6mm thick. These straps are not your average watch strap, they are thick and big.

I am going to get some 10oz tooling leather and go to town with my pear shader. Any thoughts on how best to do the flat parts beside the curvy parts? I know I could stamp down that area, but what is the best tool?

Thanks again.

[bruce johnson]

Wayne.

I would probably try a pear shader first, and then smooth over that with a matting tool. If the matting tools have too much checkering for your tastes, you can smooth them up by running some emery paper over the face.

Bruce Johnson

[whinewine]

Guys, thank for all the help.

I am 99% sure this was done by a pear shader. After studying this one and others it does not seem like it would be plausible to do a layered strap.

This strap is really that big. It is 5-6mm thick. These straps are not your average watch strap, they are thick and big.

I am going to get some 10oz tooling leather and go to town with my pear shader. Any thoughts on how best to do the flat parts beside the curvy parts? I know I could stamp down that area, but what is the best tool?

Thanks again.

10oz leather seems WAY too heavy for a watchband.

If you look carefully at the tip itself, it looks like there is some sort of a seam with 2 layers. I'd opt for glue &/or press (with an embossing clicker) work on this, rather than pear shading- it seems too regular for pear shading, IMHO.

I would say, try to replicate this by pear shading. I'm sure everyone would like to see your results & your thoughts afterward. Good luck!

[wayner123]

Well all,

It turns out the 1% I wasn't sure about is the answer. I finally tracked down the maker and he said that it was layered. So I was 99% wrong.

Now the question comes, what type of glue would hold those well enough and allow you to mold it to the plug? I usually just use barge, but I don't think it would allow me to overlay the top layer onto the plug and mold it before it dried/became sticky. Any ideas?

[Regis]

I would think that you would form the leather first and just fill it with leather dust and glue. Then add backing. Just my guess.

Regis

[Art]

Hi Wayne,

Why not mold the top wet, let it dry, then go back and barge or better yet use one of the resin glues (white glues) like Fiebings Leather Weld that have some work time to them.

Art

Well all,

It turns out the 1% I wasn't sure about is the answer. I finally tracked down the maker and he said that it was layered. So I was 99% wrong.

Now the question comes, what type of glue would hold those well enough and allow you to mold it to the plug? I usually just use barge, but I don't think it would allow me to overlay the top layer onto the plug and mold it before it dried/became sticky. Any ideas?

[wayner123]

Man, you guys are great!!!

Now all I have left to do is figure out what leather to use. I want it to be around 10oz thickness. So I was thinking of 3 layers of 3oz. But I don't need a whole side, and it needs to be fairly soft leather.

Also would have to be able to be dyed. I am not that familiar with leather other than color, so what type of leather should I get?

[The Major]

Man, you guys are great!!!

Now all I have left to do is figure out what leather to use. I want it to be around 10oz thickness. So I was thinking of 3 layers of 3oz. But I don't need a whole side, and it needs to be fairly soft leather.

Also would have to be able to be dyed. I am not that familiar with leather other than color, so what type of leather should I get?

Your top layer will need to be around .3mm in order to get the look of that original. Goat molds the best. You can get veg tanned goat from Siegals and skive it down or get pre-colored book binders goat which is already the thickness you need but you are stuck with solid colors. I would use a 2 oz cow for the backing and 2 layers of the 2 oz for the plugs so you can sculpt them.

As for the glue, Art hit it on the head - use the white tanners bond glue.

Just my $0.02

[jaygus]

barge is flexable