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Posted

I can't see your vision dikman. What is it that you want to make with your dies?

I used to buy a pattern, precisely cut out the wooden core and using the pattern and the core Id bend it around the nails until it fitted.

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Posted

What do I want to make? No idea yet.:lol: I've watched many videos on how the die steel is shaped using bending tools/machines so figured I needed one. Me being me means I have to make one. The concept is simple enough it just needs three things - a means of applying sufficient force to bend it, (force applied to the end of the sliding tube by a lever/handle), a means of keeping everything square/vertical while bending it (hence the square tube to prevent any twisting of the die) and the right shaped dies to get the bends (right angles, curves etc). The shapes needed can be determined by watching the videos.

Bear with me, hopefully at the end you will be able to appreciate the full extent of my genius - or realise that I just confirmed I'm an idjit with no idea!:lol:

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

Posted

Just seen that ringbender on Temu. Looks exactly the same one I paid a lot more money for. I'd jump on it if I were you.

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Posted
On 8/19/2025 at 1:51 AM, dikman said:

Haven't used it yet. I've been trying to find where to buy the steel rule to make my own dies, no success yet. All the searches point me to either the US or China (alibaba), neither of which is feasible. I've found someone selling hoop (banding) steel pretty cheap so might give that a try. It's the same size as 2pt steel rule so it's worth a try. I also have to make a device for bending/shaping the stuff.

But the Vevor is a nicely made tool, built like a tank!

As far as your steel rule and hoop go, if I’m translating Aussie to American correctly, that rule is what I would call flat bar stock, and hoop would be steel strap at our “big box hardware stores” (aka Home Depot). 
If so, the hoop would probably be way too soft to hold form under a press. 


If you happen to have a forge, I suppose it *may* be possible to heat it and use some Cherry Red to case harden it once you shape it. (As a gun guy, I assume you might be familiar with it, but it’s basically gun bluing but for the brownish color instead of blue-black). If you don’t have one, you might be able to slip one under the missus’s nose if you build it yourself (I built my coal forge for about $50, well less than the cost of my anvil, and my 1st propane forge is made from an old propane cylinder and the guts of an old gas grill. But you didn’t hear that from me… 😉). And metalwork and leather have always gone together hand in hand.
Wow I went way off topic really fast. I’m assuming that you have checked with metal supply houses (the commercial variety that supply pipes/rebar/i-beams/etc), welding supply shops, blacksmiths, co-op forges, farriers, farm/tack supply shops, and web forums. (Just the sources I can think of to at least get a lead to work from.)

But I have been told that common things here are not-so-common there. Oh! BBQ/smoker fabricators! Might even be able to get some of there scrap (though there’s no such thing as scrap steel. Just ask a blacksmith 😁. No I’m not a blacksmith, just a bumblesmith…) 

Ooh squirrel! My daughter got me a little Vevor 1-burner forge, and it’s actually my primary forge now. I think she found it while it was on sale for ~$100. 10/10 recommend. Might even get hotter than my 2-burner. 

On 8/20/2025 at 6:16 AM, Northmount said:

Split off posts about Making Your Own Dies to https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/131702-making-your-own-dies/

 

 

Thank you, I have a difficult time finding what I’m looking for through the 100’s/1000’s of search results!

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Posted

Answers in no particular order (:)), a fellow member of my shooting club also dabbles in leatherwork (I think I got him started!) and has found a source of die rule, although only in 1 metre lengths - but it aint cheap! Nor will the postage be! You are right, by the way, about getting things here, it's not like the US!! The banding steel I've got is high tensile and if I use the method of making the shape out of wood (backing block) and screwing the steel band to it I'm pretty sure it will stand up to the pressure of the press. Case hardening, an interesting idea but the steel band is factory coated to resist corrosion and it could be difficult to remove, also heating the thin steel to the necessary temperature is likely to deform the shape once made. Forges, I have a coke and a gas forge so heating it is no problem and I have several different size anvils, rather the problem is how thin it is (0.7 mm), I've managed to burn/melt much thicker stuff in the coke forge!!

If the info I found is correct (and I think it is) the banding steel has 0.2% carbon, 1.2% manganese and a small amount of sulphur. So tough, ductile but can't be hardened, and it's very springy.

Anyhow, I appreciate you taking the time to think of possible solutions.:specool:

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted
On 8/19/2025 at 5:44 AM, toxo said:

I assume the UK is too dear also? I did a post a while back about this where I posted a link to  Partwell.

Usually sold in packs of 60/100 so heavy. Better off looking for die makers  who might sell you some. 

Toxo . . . go to the other thread about clicker dies and no press . . . find my post on page two . . . lots of good ideas for you there.

Long and short . . . you can make something much better than a clicker die on your computer . . . which will do a better job as well.  I have done both.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

Posted
29 minutes ago, Dwight said:

Toxo . . . go to the other thread about clicker dies and no press . . . find my post on page two . . . lots of good ideas for you there.

Long and short . . . you can make something much better than a clicker die on your computer . . . which will do a better job as well.  I have done both.

May God bless,

Dwight

I use my Laser Engraver for logos. It won't cut leather efficiently. When I use it I have to leave the room and it's not quick. I know you can buy more powerful Lasers with cabinets that will cut leather but what the cost of those is I have no idea. I do know that whilst you're cutting one I can cut five with these.

IMG_20220414_133329_edit_405935254653682.jpg.a524792c9368823213421543def6aa1d.jpg

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Posted

Yep, and if you want to cut out multiple items a die will be far more efficient. My 10w cuts leather ok but 'tis a wee bit slow. I'd like a bigger (better) one but the pre-built units, in an enclosure, are for me prohibitively expensive.

Anyhow, I've been spending much time (including with Lego :whistle:) trying to figure out the best method of getting suitable leverage for the bending end of the jig. I've discarded several ideas (I really wanted to use a cam arrangement but I don't have any steel big/thick enough to make a cam) and think I've got one that should work. I was going to make the handle upright and push forward but looking at a commercial unit they have the handle sticking out the back and you push down, which looks like it might be more comfortable,. Tomorrow looks like welding day.:)

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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