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Posted
I would really like to see the Williams strander also. Everytime I need to cut a strap of any kind I lament the use of a strap guage. It doesn't make sense to me to have all that drag way to the outside of your support. Specially when I need to cut a billet or something like it. I think the handle should be hooked to the blade portion not the guide portion.

They already make what you are discribing they call it a plough gauge and I use one for cutting stirrup leathers. Works way nicer than a draw gauge on wide straps but you better have a couple shots of everclear before you price one out. Greg

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Posted

John Bianchi has produced a new strap cutter that has the blade in the handle and the edge of the strap off to the side. Can be used right or left handed. Pretty inexpensive. Same principle as the plough gauge only pulling instead of pushing. I still prefer the plough gauge for heavier leather and wider straps like stirrup leathers.

Keith

Keith Seidel

Seidel's Saddlery

www.seidelsaddlery.com

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Posted (edited)

Attached is a Picture of a Plough guage. The wing nut looking screw is to adjust the brass roller for strap thickness and the other adjustment screw is to adjust the width of the strap. It is then pushed to cut straps.

Greg is right, have a defibrolator handy when you see the price of a new one.

Barra.

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Edited by barra

"If You're not behind the Troops, please feel free to stand in front of them"

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Posted

Pics of the Dean Williams whip strander.

the width adjustment has 2 "stops" on it, one for your narrowest setting, one for your widest. Then as you cut your tapered strand you just automaticaly start at the narrowest (or widest if you want to taper the other direction) that you have set it and gradually work out to your widest setting. Widest that it will cut is about 7/8"

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Remember to drink the coffee not the edging dye!

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Posted

Has any one tried using a safety razor blade split in half? I briefly tried with a old one from my razor, didn't seem to go well. Not sure if its to flexible or just not sharp enough.

The Safety Razor used to work with my old Strander as it had a very fine slit in the top to take it, but it got "borrowed". I just use narrow Stanley Knife Break off blades now as the Top of my new one is now a Roller type.

For David Morris is that Dean Williams from R Ms I'd like to catch up with him if I can.

Kindest regard. Jim.

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Posted
For David Morris is that Dean Williams from R Ms I'd like to catch up with him if I can.

Kindest regard. Jim.

Jim

Yes that is RM's son, he is somewhere in South East Queensland, I'll PM you his phone number

regards

dam

PS. Hows things goin with the SHMAA?

Remember to drink the coffee not the edging dye!

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Posted

I HATE when people steal my ideas before me! Now how am I going to get rich? Where do I find this Bianchi cutter so I can see if he did it right?

- - - -
Kevin Orr

  • 3 months later...
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Posted
BTW Dean Williams sells a very nice strander, a bit more complicated but heaps more versatile than the RM strander. I got one a couple of years ago. It was only about $100 and that included a complete set of instructions on making a kangaroo hide stock whip. This strander is realy good for doing tapered strands and also caters better for variations in thickness of the the hide and you can also take it off of the strand at any point and putt it back on without threading all the way out tto the end of the strand. Up till then I spent most of my life using the thumbnail method when ever I wanted tapered strands or mutliple strand cut together at one-time.

if any one is interested I'll get a photo of Dean Williams's whip cutter's strander onto here.

regards

dam

I bought one of Dean's stranders a number of years back - when they were $50.00 but I wouldn't take 3 times that much for it. And the best thing about it - he made them in right or left hand models. It is just the ticket for cutting overlay sets for whips. Cut a length at one width for all the strands, and then change the width for proper taper. And you can start and stop anywhere as stated above. Uses #11 scalpel blades and cuts like a dream. I actually gave my Aussie strander away after I got this one.

Posted

I used one to cut the strands for my whip. I started them at 5mm and then went to 6mm then to 7mm. I would cut about 3 ft. then adjust the cutter to the next level. It worked pretty good. But as far as using it on my left thumb, it didnt happen. I trouble with that method so i used it on my right index finger.It worked ok. You just have to go "slow"

Tom

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Posted

Wow, talk about a bunch of information!!!!! I cut all my lace, leather and rawhide with the Aussie strander. My rawhide instructor, Mary Fields, (in the Bruce Grant books) always used a draw gauge.

Anyway, I use the strander on my right middle finger. I have my index finger under to help support it and to help control the speed at which I pull. I have a tendancy to try to go too fast.

I think the important thing is to practice and find a method that works. I don't believe there is a right or wrong way to cut lace just a way that works for each person. I believe it is important to get other opinions and listen to ideas. I take what iI learn form others, adjust them to the way I do things and move on. I also try to learn from others mistakes so I don't have to make them.

Hope all is well with everyone and I do enjoy reading and learning from all of you. I just don't know where to find the time to spend more time here to read and post.

Via con Dios,

Joe

Joe Boyles

Rugged Cross Saddlery

Lewistown, Montana

Romans 6:23

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