Members jimsaddler Posted May 9, 2009 Members Report Posted May 9, 2009 (edited) Interesting stuff, Jim. I hadn't heard of this before but it kinda makes sense. How do you combine the two substances? Melt and stir? Heat and squish? What is the best combination percentage wise? Ray I tend to think that the Lanolin should be avoided and a touch of olive olive oil used. Lanolin was used by Bootmakers for a while and disgarded it as it is too gummy. Melt the Resin (powdered) into melted Beeswax. Pour it into a bucket of water when combined. I've allways used room temperature. Then pull it out carefully and keep pulling it till its stretchy. hen break off knobs about the size of a Bantams Egg and roll the into a ball. Hey presto you have thread Wax. No oil in Summer, a bit of oil in winter in cold area's (don't need it here in Queensland though). When you use it rub it fast to heat the Thread and melt the Wax in. Kindest Regards. Jim. Edited May 9, 2009 by bruce johnson Quote
Members ChuckBurrows Posted May 9, 2009 Members Report Posted May 9, 2009 (edited) I use a mix of about 60% wax and 40% rosin ( I collect my own osin or use http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?products_id=373 ) and like Jim a bit of olive oil if needed to make it a bit less stiff. Melt in a double boiler or an old crock pot (CAUTION: both wax and rosin fumes are flammable so take care) - when melted I don't do the water and taffy pull anymore - I get those self-supporting muffin "tins" and pour it into them - let cool, tear away the tin and voila you;ve got the best handsewing wax around FWIW - pitch not only makes it stickier but also adds, anti-bacterial/anti-fungal properties, which are good things - plus it smells good!........ Edited May 9, 2009 by ChuckBurrows Quote Wild Rose Trading Company Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.
Members JamesR Posted May 9, 2009 Author Members Report Posted May 9, 2009 I use a mix of about 60% wax and 40% rosin ( I collect my own osin or use http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?products_id=373 ) and like Jim a bit of olive oil if needed to make it a bit less stiff. Melt in a double boiler or an old crock pot (CAUTION: both wax and rosin fumes are flammable so take care) - when melted I don't do the water and taffy pull anymore - I get those self-supporting muffin "tins" and pour it into them - let cool, tear away the tin and voila you;ve got the best handsewing wax aroundFWIW - pitch not only makes it stickier but also adds, anti-bacterial/anti-fungal properties, which are good things - plus it smells good!........ Chuck, Thanks for the wesite (townsend) I am ordering it today. JamesR Quote
Members jeeperaz Posted May 11, 2009 Members Report Posted May 11, 2009 (edited) Here is a nice little tutorial (with pictures) about making coad/hand wax... http://wherearetheelves.blogspot.com/2007/...aking-code.html I got my rosin from: http://www.usrodeosupply.com/ - $10 for a pound. What was nice about them is you can get a 1lb bag that is mixed with both dark and light colored rosin so you can better tune the color of your wax. I heat my rosin and beeswax on my bbq grill in a small coffee can. Edited May 11, 2009 by jeeperaz Quote
Members TomPetty Posted July 1, 2009 Members Report Posted July 1, 2009 I to use a beeswax/resin mix like chucks 60/40. It realy helps hold the stitching tight plus it does smell good. Quote
Members pinkchaps Posted July 2, 2009 Members Report Posted July 2, 2009 I to use a beeswax/resin mix like chucks 60/40. It realy helps hold the stitching tight plus it does smell good. hello, like most things in my life, im a little late on this post. if rosin is what you want to know about im your man. I dont know anything about beeswax/rosin mix . I do know black rosin is stickier than yellow or clear. They put rosin on a violin bow to make friction so it will get better contact and more drag. bull riders heat it up on their ropes and gloves where it wll get sticky and saddle bronc riders heat it up on their saddle swells and inside of theirs thighs. Bareback riders dont heat it up they leave it in powder form and use it as lubrication to get their hand in the rigging, if they heat it up they probably couldnt get their hand in. the main reason baseball players, bowlers, and roughstock riders use rosin is the take away moisture. I personally use rosin ocassionally on machines in my shop to get better friction. if you're still needing to buy rosin contact me and i'll be happy to help you. thanks again! Quote
Members Dangerous Dave Posted October 3, 2009 Members Report Posted October 3, 2009 Another alternative to resin/rosin/pitch is asphaltum. You can get it @ the home stores as roofing tar in a caulk tube. mix equal parts pure beeswax and roofing caulk and melt together being careful of the flamability of both ingredients. Pour the warm liquid into a bucket of cold water and hand work into a ball. Set it aside to harden overnight. 1/4 pound of beeswax will yield a ball the size of a baseball and will last for a very long time. It will discolor the thread when used turning the linen a brownish/blackish color though. It works to both lubricate the thread for stitching, sealing the stitching hole as well as glueing the threads together in the hole. Another term for this mixture is known as Kit wax. Dave Quote Dave
Members jimsaddler Posted October 4, 2009 Members Report Posted October 4, 2009 Another alternative to resin/rosin/pitch is asphaltum. You can get it @ the home stores as roofing tar in a caulk tube. mix equal parts pure beeswax and roofing caulk and melt together being careful of the flamability of both ingredients. Pour the warm liquid into a bucket of cold water and hand work into a ball. Set it aside to harden overnight. 1/4 pound of beeswax will yield a ball the size of a baseball and will last for a very long time. It will discolor the thread when used turning the linen a brownish/blackish color though. It works to both lubricate the thread for stitching, sealing the stitching hole as well as glueing the threads together in the hole. Another term for this mixture is known as Kit wax. Dave Hi Dave Can I explain the difference as I understand it. Light Resin is from Trees, Pine as recall. For Saddle and Bridle Stitching (Brown Saddling) the light is used for the lighter Colour and to avoid staining the Work. Patent Hemp or fine Shoe thread are waxed with Light Wax in a knob about the size of a Bantams Egg. Dark Resin is Pitch or Asphhalt which is a petroleum derivitive. Ideal for Black Wax for Black Harness or Repair work where there is no problem with stains, the mix is usually quite sticky. This is usually made in smaller knobs as the Common Hemp used with it sheds more and the wax becomes a ball of thread quicker. I seldom use the Black now, guess I don't want to have to wash my hands with Kerosene then Lemon Juice & Salt, like Grandpa taught me. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler. Quote
MADMAX22 Posted October 4, 2009 Report Posted October 4, 2009 Jeeperaz link for the resin supplyer has it on sale for $5 1lb. Thats half price if anyone is thinking of picking some up. Quote
MADMAX22 Posted October 9, 2009 Report Posted October 9, 2009 Got my rosin in today. Nice amber color, cant wait to start mixing and matching with some bees wax. Been wanting to try it for a while now. I think the rodeo place still has the sale going on. Got my 2 lbs worth for $14 shipped. Quote
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