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Whats the best way to duplicate several identical pieces?

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I started building cue cases and loving it as a hobby. Now their are some pieces for instance the main body that is wrapped around the body of the case and is riveted all the way down like an "envelope"

Now ive recently been tracing it on parchment paper but down here in texas its so damn humid that the parchment paper started to shrink and shrivel up!

Whats a better way of doing this? thanks guys!

PS: maybe someone can get Jack Justis (my idol) to chime in on some advice! =)

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I use manila folders for my templates for the holsters and sheaths.For larger stuff use poster board.Dave

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I use high impact styrene for my patterns. I was using it for stiffeners in rope bags and organizers and I starting using the remnants to make patterns with. I'ts pretty rigid, waterproof, color is white and easy to write on. Now I can throw these pattern templates on a piece of leather, trace around it and cut it out. I like to write instructions for myself on each of the patterns for reminders. It's available in 4x8 sheets (which will roll up) and is available in several thicknesses from plastics suppliers.

Hope this helps...

Bobby

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I use greyboard, about 1mm thick for my templates. It's cheap, durable, and comes in sizes up to A1.

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I use manilla folders or binders board.

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I use high impact styrene for my patterns. I was using it for stiffeners in rope bags and organizers and I starting using the remnants to make patterns with. I'ts pretty rigid, waterproof, color is white and easy to write on. Now I can throw these pattern templates on a piece of leather, trace around it and cut it out. I like to write instructions for myself on each of the patterns for reminders. It's available in 4x8 sheets (which will roll up) and is available in several thicknesses from plastics suppliers.

Hope this helps...

Bobby

Hello Bobby, when you mention the styrene, isnt that thick? what do you cut it with? and whats a good place to get them at? is there a national chain thats a plastic supplier?

Thanks guys for all the advice, I tried to use card board but they are to small... my pieces are atleast 32 inches long

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id get something like masonite or maybe some cheap plastic.

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In a word . . . . Posterboard! I have pattern templates that are several years old that are as true now as they were then. Not to mention that you can get it in large sheets and even staple two pieces together to enlarge the template.

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Hello Bobby, when you mention the styrene, isnt that thick? what do you cut it with? and whats a good place to get them at? is there a national chain thats a plastic supplier?

Thanks guys for all the advice, I tried to use card board but they are to small... my pieces are atleast 32 inches long

The styrene comes in thicknesses as thin as 2 or 3 mils. I use 4 mil and 6 mil. You need to look for a plastic supplier in your area. I found mine in the yellow pages under 'Plastic Suppliers".

Bob

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I use Bontex. I use it here and there for bag stiffener ( I buy it at Tandy, They sell it as "bag stiffener") I have been using it since I started in leather work. There are some draw backs though if you are not careful while tracing you can distor the pattern over time. I personaly am going to look up some of Bobs styrene it wound like the winning ticket.

One question Bob what do you cut it with Just shears?

Tim

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I am using stuff called milk board that you can get at Home Depot. I is like that stuff Bobby is talking about. It come in 4x8 sheets and you can cut it with a good knife or good set of shears. It is flexable and makes a nice pattern that does not wear on the edges. I had never thought to use it for a stiffener, learn something here every day. Thanks Bob

Mark

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I use Bontex. I use it here and there for bag stiffener ( I buy it at Tandy, They sell it as "bag stiffener") I have been using it since I started in leather work. There are some draw backs though if you are not careful while tracing you can distor the pattern over time. I personaly am going to look up some of Bobs styrene it wound like the winning ticket.

One question Bob what do you cut it with Just shears?

Tim

I use a knife, Tim. If you score it deep it breaks cleanly.

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Thanks Bob ,

Good info. I'm going down town and will stop by the glass/plastics shop.

Tim

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Thanks Bob ,

Good info. I'm going down town and will stop by the glass/plastics shop.

Tim

We use thin white cardboard, similar to posterboard but cheaper. This is what we use for all of our patterns because it can be written on folded, taped, and easily duplicated. Cardboard can be folded along the centerlines to insure that it is accurate and symetrical. This ability to fold it also means that you can often make other parts when you need just a section of a pattern for some reason, i.e. just the corner of that pattern for this new pocket.

We generally make the patterns on the computer and use the laser to cut them. When we make a pattern by hand we will duplicate on the computer so that it is always there for us in the event that we lose or destroy a paper pattern.

Also by being on the computer we can modify and make an new pattern in very little time.

Over the years I have tried many substances for patterns including some of the ones mentioned above and I always come back to the cardboard due to it's flexibility.

When the laser is down, out come the patterns and we continue making the parts without skipping a beat with the exception of the very complicated parts that have a lot of intricate curves. Then we just take more time and use the exacto knife.

I am not your idol Phillip? I am hurt. ;-)

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I am not your idol Phillip? I am hurt. ;-)

Did I not mention you? crap! Mr Barton you are also my idol. but honestly you are the person i go to for creativity in different designs. Thanks for the input. when you get the patterns laser printed can this be done at a place like kinkos? or does it require a special machine

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I get remnants of lino which is very cheap and cuts like butter! Edges don't fray either.

Tony.

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Did I not mention you? crap! Mr Barton you are also my idol. but honestly you are the person i go to for creativity in different designs. Thanks for the input. when you get the patterns laser printed can this be done at a place like kinkos? or does it require a special machine

LOL. It's ok, if any of us can have half the success Jack has had in both making consistently fantastic cases and making friends throughout the world then we will have a wonderful life. Please just call me John.

When I said that we "print" it with the laser I meant that we cut the pattern out using cardboard using out laser cutter.

Before we had the laser cutter we would literally print the pattern on paper and transfer it to cardboard. You need to set your printer to print a full size and if your program has a way to tile the printout then do that. You can test your printer settings by making a rectangle and then printing the rectangle to insure that it comes out exactly at the size you created it to be.

You can also have places like Kinkos print out your patterns in full size - I don't know if they can print on posterboard. Any sign shop can easily do your patterns and cut them with a plotter or also laser cut them.

But honestly, you don't need all that. Right now you need to focus on keeping your patterns simple and learning how to make them by hand. There have been a lot of good suggestions here on materials to use for your patterns. Like I said I prefer the cardboard.

Another thing I would suggest is to use the printer to test your patterns. I regularly build paper mockups where I will print the patterns and use scotch tape to mock up the part. This really helps to work out the kinks before you start cutting up a bunch of leather.

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Also I want to add that we need to distinguish between a pattern and a template. A pattern is the blue print for a part. Depending on what it's made of it can also act as a template. A template is something that I use to cut parts or set the proper spacing. We make a lot of templates out of wood and heavy plastic sheeting and use those to cut parts without having to mark the leather first. Patterns are generally used for marking the material prior to cutting it. Using a template you can just cut the material without marking it first.

One of the factories I work with uses some metal templates with handles. They lay it down on the leather and run the razor around it and cut a perfect part every time. Beyond that they always have cutting dies for cutting parts on the clicker press. I have seen them use the cutting dies as a manual template for both marking and cutting.

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