Casing Leather

[Dwight]

Thanks, Bobby, . . . looks like I'm going to go get a piece of glass

I struggle mostly with interruptions that cannot be avoided, . . . and that plate glass trick sounds just like my answer.

I'm also struggling to get my "impressions" just the way I want them, . . . but it is coming along.

Again, many thanks, . . . may God bless,

Dwight

[Stagdag]

Question: I have a bit of english tanned saddle leather.

It's finished with something shiny or waxy on both sides and it's rather hard compared to standard oak/vegtanned leather that I use for tooling.

I've tried to case this stuff for tooling, but I don't really know much about casing leather. It didn't work well, but I may not have done it right.

How can I make this stuff toolable/stampable?

Thanks!

PMZ

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Bobby, it is said that imitation is the most sincere form of flattery. When I am working on a tooling project I find myself picking out the person whose work I most admire in that area, (design, style, finish, tooling, ect.) and emulating what they do, to achieve the results they achieve. In the case of tooling, I always find myself thinking how does Bobby get those smooth edges, crisp tooling, and relief? I make it a point to work with that as my goal. I never miss a chance to read your comments on how to. Thanks for lending your expertice on tooling! One thing that I have found works for me is that once I start to tool a piece that has been cased, If I need to add moisture, I use a spray bottle and mist it on. I try to take it a section at a time as you suggest, since when I am tooling, most generally I won't get it all done in one sitting, also I like to do paired panels at the same time, like fenders, and I do them left and right handed, (mirrored) which makes for a lot of tooling in one sitting.

Anyways, thanks for all the info, keep it coming, it is appreciated.

Bondo Bob

[hidepounder]

Question: I have a bit of english tanned saddle leather.

It's finished with something shiny or waxy on both sides and it's rather hard compared to standard oak/vegtanned leather that I use for tooling.

I've tried to case this stuff for tooling, but I don't really know much about casing leather. It didn't work well, but I may not have done it right.

How can I make this stuff toolable/stampable?

Thanks!

PMZ

It sounds like you're talking about harness leather which I've never tried to tool. I wouldn't think that it would absorb water very well or tool very well. I think probably that the poor result was due more to the leather than to the process you used.

[hidepounder]

Bobby, it is said that imitation is the most sincere form of flattery. When I am working on a tooling project I find myself picking out the person whose work I most admire in that area, (design, style, finish, tooling, ect.) and emulating what they do, to achieve the results they achieve. In the case of tooling, I always find myself thinking how does Bobby get those smooth edges, crisp tooling, and relief? I make it a point to work with that as my goal. I never miss a chance to read your comments on how to. Thanks for lending your expertice on tooling! One thing that I have found works for me is that once I start to tool a piece that has been cased, If I need to add moisture, I use a spray bottle and mist it on. I try to take it a section at a time as you suggest, since when I am tooling, most generally I won't get it all done in one sitting, also I like to do paired panels at the same time, like fenders, and I do them left and right handed, (mirrored) which makes for a lot of tooling in one sitting.

Anyways, thanks for all the info, keep it coming, it is appreciated.

Bondo Bob

Bob....thank you so much for the kind words. It is always rewarding to hear that your efforts are appreciated and I'm just egotistical enough to enjoy it, LOL! I like to use a spray bottle also. It seems like it makes it just a little easier to get an even application of water.

[sniper]

Bob; Thanks for the information. It will remove some of the frustration I have experienced in my attempts to case leather properly.

Edited November 25, 2010 by sniper

[hidepounder]

Question: I have a bit of english tanned saddle leather.

It's finished with something shiny or waxy on both sides and it's rather hard compared to standard oak/vegtanned leather that I use for tooling.

I've tried to case this stuff for tooling, but I don't really know much about casing leather. It didn't work well, but I may not have done it right.

How can I make this stuff toolable/stampable?

Thanks!

PMZ

Stagdag,

I apologize for not responding sooner...I missed your question until today. I have never tried to tool that kind of leather and I'm not sure I have ever seen any tooled. I would think it would be very difficult to get moisture in in it properly to make it toolable and so I just just wouldn't recommend using it.

Bobby

Bob; Thanks for the information. It will remove some of the frustration I have experienced in my attempts to case leather properly.

Sniper....good luck with your next session and feel free to ask is you have any questions.

Bobby

[sniper]

Bob;

Thanks much for your clear and understandable explanation! That is one area I have been having a fit with...casing. Seems like it's wet... wait...tap tap tap...spray...wait..., and the burnishing is not what I would like.

Soooo.. I'm going to try your method...it couldn't hurt!

[FHL FERG]

This place is such a plethora of good info! Thanks for putting that together, really well done. I realized why my toolings kept losing some of their depth, too much "casing" with a sponge as I work it. I will be experimenting with this method on my next project.

[bead]

Excellent job.Thanks.