Casing Leather

[club49]

Hi Bob,

I am new here and just wanted to thank you for all your help. I have your step by step instructions on how to do edges stuck to my wall. My edges come out great, now I have to work on the rest of my work.

Jim

[lilsiscojoe]

Can any type of leather be cased (latigo, harness, etc)? To stretch and shape it? Like for a knife sheath? Maybe this is not the right place for this question??

[camano ridge]

If it is veg tanned and has not been pre loaded with waxes and or oils, or have a finish on it can be wet molded.

[hidepounder]

Can any type of leather be cased (latigo, harness, etc)? To stretch and shape it? Like for a knife sheath? Maybe this is not the right place for this question??

I can't really answer that question because I've never tried to case latigo or harness leather, but my first thought would be that it would not case. My other thought is that neither of those leathers would be the appropriate choice for projects that need to be molded.

If it is veg tanned and has not been pre loaded with waxes and or oils, or have a finish on it can be wet molded.

I would think the answer is yes. The best leather for a project that needs to be molded is veg tan.

[Hawk Scarbrough]

On 9/16/2009 at 5:17 PM, hidepounder said:

Hello everybody...

I have put together the steps I take to case my leather for tooling due to a number of requests regarding my method. I hope this will clarify what I perceive are some misconceptions about what casing leather really is. It is in PDF format and Johanna has graciously added the article to the "Tips and Tricks" section where anyone can find it. Thank you Johanna!!! Or it can be accessed through the link below.

I hope those who need this find it helpful....

Bobby

 

I like to moisten my leather on large multi piece projects..place them in ziplock bags...and put them in the fridge. I then take out the piece I'm going to work on tooling and let the leather return to near normal color. Hint: Either have a tolorant wife, as I do, or be a bachelor, ha.

[catstamp]

Thank you Bobby for taking the time to pass on your knowledge to us newbies out here. I am learning as I go and I appreciate getting good advice from a pro like yourself.

Edited November 4, 2015 by catstamp

[grommit]

thank all for the thread on casing.

it help me massively.

ATB

Bri

[alpha2]

The thing that led me astray as a newbie was Tandy Leather videos where they said again and again that casing was done by saturating the top surface with a wet sponge, then waiting until it almost returned to the original color. 

That may work for some thin leathers in small sizes, but it's a far cry from the proper way to "case" leather. I finally know why I wasn't getting consistent depth and color to my stamping. I can't wait until I use this method for my next project!

Edited July 10, 2016 by alpha2

[JenGranger]

On May 8, 2011 at 3:23 PM, Bennie lovejoy said:

If I may ask a question about casing? Is it best to case all leather or just large pieces? I usually don't use anything larger than say an 8" by 10" piece for knife sheaths and just use a wet sponge before tooling. is my logic OK for this? My impressions very rarely come out the same.

I have the same question about small projects.

[catstamp]

You can wet leather but just that simple act is not cased.  When casing leather you want the moisture to reach the inner most fibers of the leather and that take's time and a bit of planning.   Once the leather return's to its normal color and is cool to the touch the moisture has swollen those inner fibers and then it's ready.  Cased leather will cut easier and your impressions will be crisper