Edge Burnisher For Dremels

[Dink]

Sign me up I'll take one.

[Peter Ellis]

I had a friend make one for my drill press after seeing a couple of versions (plastic and wood) in a Weaver catalogue.

I like it and it works pretty well, but the idea of one on the nice handy little Dremel is a really good one

I suppose I should add my name to your list

Edited September 21, 2010 by Peter Ellis

[Spinner]

Hi Dink, I'll add you to the list.

Peter, I'll add you as well.

To all: I have a couple of custom leather jobs this week so I'll be getting paid and can buy the bits, wood, etc. for all these. I should be able to start sometime next week and it looks like it's going to take a week or so of turning in between leather jobs to get them all done. I truly didn't expect to be making more than six or seven of them. LOL! My lovely assistant (my wife) will be going back through the thread to make a list of the names and numbers in the order of the replies so we can sort it out and get to everyone in due time. Hopefully I should have them all ready to be delivered over the next 2-3 weeks.

If I have questions on what sizes you would like, I'll send a PM through the forum otherwise I'll drop you a note when your bits are ready.

Thanks,

Chris

[King's X]

You DA man!

[SouthernCross]

Please put my name on your list too. I already have the Dremel post - just need the wood piece.

[Jazznow]

Hi Chris, 

thanks for your advice. I will see, if i can get some of the mentioned woods from a knife maker or so. These guys usually have some exotic woods for the handle. 

Greetings

Jazznow

Hey Jazznow,

First off the beech is too soft/porous to work well for burnishing.  Best bet will be with a more exotic wood like cocobolo, tulipwood, blackwood or lignum vitae (ironwood).  The reason these work better is they are more dense and have very tight grain patterns so they don't absorb so much of the heat and product.  

I have used mine a few times in the last week and found a couple of things:  

1. you need to prep it - meaning you have to burnish some scrap to get a good burnish on the wood first.  This will close the pores even more and essentially seal it.

2. varying the speed - on thinner leather I found faster speed works better while slower speed works best with thicker leather.

3. I tried saddlesoap, gum tar and plain old spit, they all seemed to leave a slightly burnished edge, but not perfect.  When I switched to using a light coat of Aussie wax, it worked much better.  The key to this type of burnishing is the heat/friction more than the pressure.

4. a few times I found if I 'warmed' up the wood bit on a piece of scrap before hitting a finished project it worked better.

I find this type of burnisher is used mainly to take the grunt work out of burnishing and doesn't necessarily replace a good hand burnish.  By using the wood 'bits' first, my hand burnishing is cut down by half and ends up being more of a buffing/clean up step.

Chris

[joshk]

you can add me to that list too! I've got quite a few of the shanks already.... possible to get just the wood bits?

[Spinner]

SC and Josh, I can do that. I'll let you know when I'm set to ship.

Jazznow, no problem. Let me know if you have issues finding any locally. Stores like Rockler, Woodcraft,, etc will have them in short (6") lengths too if yuo have one nearby.

[King's X]

Isn't this exciting!!!! What a fire storm Spinner has created! Way to go......sharing is caring........hold on, I have to ask the wife to slap the (s) out of me and get that social worker talk out.Peace

[Spinner]

Isn't this exciting!!!! What a fire storm Spinner has created! Way to go......sharing is caring........hold on, I have to ask the wife to slap the (s) out of me and get that social worker talk out.Peace

LOL...you crack me up