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Posted

Hi

The black t-nuts that are used by all, have a black-oxide finish on them. The t-nuts start out being steel (not sure if they are galvanized or not). Process is similar to gun blueing.

Most common size is 8 x 32. The most economical way to do it is in bulk.

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Posted

Thanks for the info. I've seen those used in wood before.

Why do you use the screw instead of just using a rivet or sewing it down the middle?

Thanks,

Art

Art Schwab

"You cannot teach a man anything. You can only help him discover it within himself." – Galileo Galilei

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Posted
Thanks for the info. I've seen those used in wood before.

Why do you use the screw instead of just using a rivet or sewing it down the middle?

Thanks,

Art

With the screw, you can adjust the tension to your preference, or even use more than one type of magazine. For the IWB holsters, you can replace the loops with different colors or sizes depending on which belt you are planning to use.

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Posted

McMaster has the t-nuts, but not in black.

you could have them black oxided.

Riding is a partnership. The horse lends you his strength, speed and grace, which are greater then yours. For your part you give him your guidance, intelligence and understanding, which are greater then his. Togeather you can achieve a richness that alone neither can.

- Lucy Rees, The Horse's Mind

Posted

Ok. I see now. Thanks.

ArtS

With the screw, you can adjust the tension to your preference, or even use more than one type of magazine. For the IWB holsters, you can replace the loops with different colors or sizes depending on which belt you are planning to use.

Art Schwab

"You cannot teach a man anything. You can only help him discover it within himself." – Galileo Galilei

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Posted (edited)
Hi

The black t-nuts that are used by all, have a black-oxide finish on them. The t-nuts start out being steel (not sure if they are galvanized or not). Process is similar to gun blueing.

Most common size is 8 x 32. The most economical way to do it is in bulk.

Hmm, makes me have an idea. Unfortunately I cannot do any hot blueing here ( actually I haven't tried to purchase the chemicals needed), but I can parkerize. Although I don't intend on Parking T-nuts (won't be good for smoothness of the threads inside), I think I might be able to get a batch hot blued by some folks on a gunsmithing forum. I'm going to poke around a bit, see what I can find. If all else fails, I might push forward on hotblueing. You guys back in the States, give cold bluing a shot, it'd be fairly easy (overall). The hard part is hanging onto the little pieces and wiping each one :head_hurts_kr:

Would you guys be interested in putting in an order for a T-nuts and have them shipped to be refinished, then distributed to each? I can make a post now and see if its a job someone is willing to take.

Edit: Duracoating T-Nuts sounds like horror to me lol Instead of beadblasting each one, is it possible to drop them into a tumbler with some grit? May be a more expedient and less painful way to rough up the surface to take any coating.

Also speaking of Duracoat, anyone have a Sherwin Williams store nearby? If so, look for "Polane-T" (Polane-S will work as well). You'll need some catalyst and a special reducer too. The prices are such IIRC that it'd be more likely with a group by. But at that point, you might as well send off for refinishing unless you're already supplied and stocked to do it yourself.

Edited by Shorts
Posted (edited)

If you tumble those T-nuts you will also rough up the threads which I don't think you want to do. Even with media or sandblasting you would have to be careful not to damage the threads. Just something to think about.......maybe look into powdercoating??????

Edited by Jeffzilla

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Posted

Powder coating adds too much thickness in the threads, and phosphate or black oxide is not durable enough. Hot bluing would be ok if it weren't for the zinc plating that these come in (which will inhibit the blueing process, I believe). I have some guys fairly local that due some sort of black zinc coating that I think will work. I have to make some calls tomorrow and see.

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Posted
Powder coating adds too much thickness in the threads, and phosphate or black oxide is not durable enough. Hot bluing would be ok if it weren't for the zinc plating that these come in (which will inhibit the blueing process, I believe). I have some guys fairly local that due some sort of black zinc coating that I think will work. I have to make some calls tomorrow and see.

Hmm ok.

Looking around, Birchwood Casey makes some products that will blacken zincs. May be worth a shot and something to have onhand. I've used their cold blue to restore an old shotgun of dad's.

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Posted

Definitely worth loking into, then. I haven't had the best luck with their cold blueing or brass black, though. It tends to wear off somewhat easily in my experience.

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