Needles And Threads

[catskin]

Hi. Bob.

Does this mean that on tougher/ harder leather that the D point might be better? As in letting the thread move through easier to form the loop and pull in the bottom thread.

[CowboyBob]

Okay,

Here's a sample underneath sewn on the same CB 4500 S needle on left & D on right.

Bob

Edited December 10, 2011 by sewmun

[Suemi]

Quick question for you pros,

I have been running a 92 thread through a 22 needle on my 255rb-2. I want to go thicker, like a 138 or even up to 207. Is this possible on my machine?

Thanks for you help,

Rich

[Wizcrafts]

Quick question for you pros,

I have been running a 92 thread through a 22 needle on my 255rb-2. I want to go thicker, like a 138 or even up to 207. Is this possible on my machine?

Thanks for you help,

Rich

I use a #19 or #20 needle for #92 thread. I use a #22 to #23 needle with #138 thread. You would need a #24 needle for #207 thread.

[Suemi]

Thanks for the reply Wiz...

Can I run the 138 and 207 thread in the bobbin as well?

Thanks for the help.

Rich

I use a #19 or #20 needle for #92 thread. I use a #22 to #23 needle with #138 thread. You would need a #24 needle for #207 thread.

[tnawrot2]

Collars, harnesses and leads for big dogs and horses should be sewn with very thick thread (#277 or #346), with turn-back stitches in another inside row, at the buckle and D-Ring areas. Ditto for horse bridles. Some collar makers like to use a skip-a-dee technique instead of turn backs, at Dee-Rings. I also prefer this and my Union Lockstitch machine has a skip-a-dee lever, which feeds more thread for this purpose.

.

Can you explain, possibly with pictures, what "turn back stitches" and "skip-a-dee" stitches look like?

Thanks,

Terry

[pstaylor]

Hello, leather gurus, artisans, and hacks like me,

I have an ooold Brother DB2-B755-3, which is identical to a lot of Juki's I see around, and looked in the .pdf manual that it accepts "DBx1 (DBx5)" needles. I am overwhelmed in confusion about needles and sizing and system and all things surrounding this. I took out the needle it came with because i wanted something smaller so I put in "Schmetz Leather 130/705" and under that it says "110/18".

No good, unless i want to perforate leather. Did not make a stitch worth a darn. (see what I did there?!) I've seen all sorts of nonsensical numbers and am trying to hone in on what exactly will work for me.

What is the relation between the DBx and the actual needle sizing? What will work for me?

Thank you all for not making fun of me.

Paul

[Wizcrafts]

DBx1 is a needle "system" - not a size. These needles are quite short and are for use in garment sewing machines and sergers. Their short size leads to a short stroke in the needlebar, which means not too much clearance is available under the presser foot.

If the other needle you tried is too long or too short, the loop will be in the wrong place and the hook will not pick it up.

However, if you tried using a different "system" needle and by chance it is the same length (top of shaft to eye of needle) as the DBx1, you may have inserted it with the cutout above the eye facing the wrong direction. That cutout should face to the dead right and should be threaded from left to right.

BTW: Your machine is a high speed garment sewing machine, for cloth, not leather. It is meant to sew with cotton or polyester or polyester and cotton dual core threads, typically is home sizes 40 or 50. A number 18 needle is fairly large for those threads.

Edited January 18, 2013 by Wizcrafts

[pstaylor]

Thanks Wiz! I will make sure it was on correctly since I broke the one that was working.

The needle the guy had on it and demonstrated to me the effectiveness was a pretty large one, and blunt tipped, and it tore through 8-9 oz leather stitched to 4 oz garment leather like there was no tomorrow. I broke it while fiddling around.

Is the DPx5 just an equivalent term for DBx1, or is that something else?

Thanks again.

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks Wiz! I will make sure it was on correctly since I broke the one that was working.

The needle the guy had on it and demonstrated to me the effectiveness was a pretty large one, and blunt tipped, and it tore through 8-9 oz leather stitched to 4 oz garment leather like there was no tomorrow. I broke it while fiddling around.

Is the DPx5 just an equivalent term for DBx1, or is that something else?

Thanks again.

No, the DBx1 and DPx5 are different systems. The DPx5 is also known as a system 134 Pfaff garment machine needle. They are very close in size to the DBx1, but the top shank is wider (moving the point off-center) and the point sticks down farther from the bottom of the eye than the x1. Home style 130/705 is the wrong shank diameter (plus has a flat side) and length, although they are close in length to the x1.

You can buy DBx1 (aka: 1738, 16x257 and more) online, or from most of our member dealers, in sizes 9 through 22. If you truly want to sew leather with the Brother machine, try doing so using a DBx1 size 18 (aka: 110), with #69 bonded nylon thread. If the holes are too noticeable, go down one size to a #16 needle.

Stick to using the correct system needles for your needlebar and machine setup. If it calls for DBx1, use that system.