Members JimC Posted September 2, 2011 Members Report Posted September 2, 2011 I have been sewing a long time but am venturing into heavy work. (my usual threads over the years are Poly 69 and 135) ...but I am curious about Linen. In what situations is it better that nylon or poly. Thanks. Jim Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted October 2, 2011 Moderator Report Posted October 2, 2011 Linen thread predates both nylon and polyester thread. It was used to sew parachutes, awnings, sails, shoes, saddles, holsters, golf bags, briefcases, rifle cases, luggage, etc. The most famous brand of linen thread is Barbour's Irish Linen Thread. Formerly made in Ireland, the company was dismembered and its assets sold to Coats and Clark. Barbour's linen thread is glazed with a light weight coating that holds the twisted strands together. It is produced in standard left and custom right twist and is sold in one pound spools. While it is possible to use linen thread on a modern sewing machine, it is not really that strong unless you run it through a wax pot on the way to the needle. The wax solidifies inside the leather after a while. This permanently locks each stitch in place. Waxed linen thread is rot resistant and is able to remain functional even if one or more bottom stitches are worn down, as in the soles of shoes. Almost every hand sewn leather project is done using waxed linen thread. 6 cord waxed linen thread is incredibly strong and long lasting. It is difficult to sew waxed linen with a regular industrial sewing machine. Not impossible, just difficult. The wax clogs the guides and tensioners and the eye of the needle. It must be sewn at very slow speeds, with a larger needle than otherwise would be used.Six cord waxed linen thread would probably need a #28 or #30 needle to feed it and form a loop. Needles that big are not available for normal industrial machines. Only the biggest harness or shoe stitchers have needles that big. If you want to sew regularly with waxed linen thread, you should get a Union Lockstitch or Campbell stitcher, both of which use barbed needles and stabbing awls. If chain stitching is acceptable for your work (bottom stitches not visible), a Puritan machine will do nicely, at a lower cost than the ULS or Campbells. They have wax pots for liquid wax and accept huge, barbed needles, and use awls. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members benlilly1 Posted October 2, 2011 Members Report Posted October 2, 2011 Thanks Wizcrafts for the information on linen thread. I needed that. Thanks for asking about linen JimC! Quote
Hilly Posted October 3, 2011 Report Posted October 3, 2011 Wonderful explanation, Wizcrafts! Very in depth and detailed! Thanks! Quote
Members Lurker Posted October 7, 2011 Members Report Posted October 7, 2011 Thanks for the history, that was interesting IMO though, linen thread is outdated. The main thing it's good for is that it doesn't cut your fingers up as easy as synthetic thread does when handstitching. It also can "fluff up" a bit once sewn and looks a bit prettier. Oh...and if you like to pull on your thread ridiculously hard the linen will break before your leather does so you don't end up with two holes becoming one. I like my synthetic thread and I still do use it for all my handstitching...I just wear a bit of suede on my fingers to protect them. That's when I remember. Thread cuts are way worse than papercuts. Quote
MADMAX22 Posted October 10, 2011 Report Posted October 10, 2011 I wouldnt say linen is outdated by any means. Ive never been able to break my 6cord barbours thread by hand. Granted you need a good wax/rosin mix to hand stitch with it IMHO. All of my projects that I hand stitched from several years ago with it are still going strong. Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted October 10, 2011 Moderator Report Posted October 10, 2011 I have had to repair very old rifle cases and golf bags for collectors, or people restoring items from the parents or Grand Parents. These items were sewn on Puritan chainstitch machines, using 6 cord waxed linen thread. Some of these items were over 60 years old. The stitches were fine; the leather need patching! My Union Lockstitch machine likes 4 through 6 cord left twist linen thread. But, after buying a bargain brand once, I recommend only buying Barbour's Irish Linen Thread. It costs more, but it's well worth the money. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members KellyJ Posted October 20, 2011 Members Report Posted October 20, 2011 Hi fellas - Where can I get Barbour's Irish Linen Thread? I've been looking around and no one seems to have it anymore. (My apologies if this has been answered many times... I am really just starting out with leatherworking!) Love this site, by the way. Such a great group of people. And I've learned so much! Kelly Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted October 20, 2011 Moderator Report Posted October 20, 2011 Hi fellas - Where can I get Barbour's Irish Linen Thread? I've been looking around and no one seems to have it anymore. (My apologies if this has been answered many times... I am really just starting out with leatherworking!) Love this site, by the way. Such a great group of people. And I've learned so much! Kelly I bought mine from Campbell-Bosworth, in Texas. Here is their catalog page with linen thread. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Moderator Art Posted October 20, 2011 Moderator Report Posted October 20, 2011 Here is their catalog page with Barbour's Linen Thread, although I doubt it is Irish anymore. Art I bought mine from Campbell-Bosworth, in Texas. Here is their catalog page with linen thread. Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
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