Members steelhawk Posted November 5, 2011 Author Members Report Posted November 5, 2011 I never tried waiting for it to dry. :brainbleach: I'm going to run a few test pieces. Thanks! That's what I am doing. I have one with contact cement and one with the Tandy glue. I'll let them set overnight. Quote www.bearriverholsters.com
Members Haystacker Posted November 5, 2011 Members Report Posted November 5, 2011 I've tried to separate two pieces of leather that had leather weld. Glue held. The leather actually separated. Leather weld works good on gun belts. The problem that you may have is the leather weld has to be wet when you stick the two pieces together. On large belts that can be tricky. I really started appreciating leather weld after talking to a saddle maker in Sheridan. HE believes something is causing the poor health problems of old saddle makers. HE supposed it could be fumes from contact cement. (respirator can fix this problem) Also, I heat me shop with wood. Flammable fumes are my biggest concern. Everyone has what they like. I have had good experience with the Leather Weld. Jeff Quote haysholsters@hotmail.com NRA Life Member
MADMAX22 Posted November 5, 2011 Report Posted November 5, 2011 I have a small space heater in my garage that does pretty good at heating up my working area a little bit, enough to use my glues. I personally only use two types, the weld wood for most of the smaller stuff. I use 3M 77 spray for all the liners, belts, any applications where I use padding like my rifle slings, other items that I want a quick and easy application and can avoid fine detail glueing. I have use tape to mask off portions to keep from glueing them when using the 77. It does work really well though. I like it for belts because its a second or two of spraying one swipe and about a minute or two of letting it sit then its ready to go together. Quote
Members Haystacker Posted November 5, 2011 Members Report Posted November 5, 2011 (edited) One thing I forgot to mention about the leather weld. I put weights on the pieces after i stick them together. Usually about 30 to 40 pounds. I let it sit like that for about an hour. For belts I use a long metal ruler and then add weights on top of that for the length of the belt. When I first saw the John Bianchi western holster makng dvd's I noticed he used a white glue form Tandy. I tried 2 different brands from Tandy. Only the Leather Weld gave me the results I liked. Edited November 5, 2011 by Haystacker Quote haysholsters@hotmail.com NRA Life Member
Members Eaglestroker Posted November 5, 2011 Members Report Posted November 5, 2011 I use a woodworkers clamp bolted to my shop table after using whatever glue I choose. Don't clamp it to the point of deforming the leather but I feel it gives the glue a better, more consistent set. It's big enough to clamp almost every holster I make and I use two large boards for anything larger. I have used it to press two pieces of 6/7oz leather into a welt the thickness of one as well, as a flint holder for a sheath as well. Handy tool but be careful of pressure applied. Quote
Members Fredo Posted November 9, 2011 Members Report Posted November 9, 2011 Since I'm always looking for less expensive alternitives I found myself at the local yadage store (Joanns fabrics). I recently tried something called "Quick TacK' (Spelling my be wrong) It's used to glue cloth together. I am having real good luck with this stuff on leather. Fairly cheap at around 4 bucks for a 8 oz bottle. I also buy my linen thread, brushes, small parts bins etc there. They usualy have a 50% off cupon on line. A great way to pay for high dollar items like a large self healling cutting matt. Quote
Contributing Member SooperJake Posted June 30, 2012 Contributing Member Report Posted June 30, 2012 I never tried waiting for it to dry. :brainbleach: I'm going to run a few test pieces. Thanks! What did you learn as a result of this testing, Shooter? Jake Quote Once you know what the magician know.... it isn't magic anymore.
Northmount Posted June 30, 2012 Report Posted June 30, 2012 I have had good success with 3M water based contact cement. No fumes. Fumes from most solvent based glues that contain toululene and such give me an instant headache, so water based contact cement is great! I haven't tested how waterproof it is after setting, but water will not remove it if you let it set at all. Cleanup with water has to be fast for stuff like brushes. CTG Quote
Members Shooter McGavin Posted July 1, 2012 Members Report Posted July 1, 2012 What did you learn as a result of this testing, Shooter? Jake I've decided to stay with contact cement on my holsters, if only for the assembly time factor. Quote Zlogonje Gunleathers
Contributing Member SooperJake Posted July 1, 2012 Contributing Member Report Posted July 1, 2012 North~ what sort of wait time is there before you can assemble? I used to sell Titebond's GreenChoice neoprene (water based) contact cement which dried reasonably fast for a water based product. Never used it on leather though. No VOC's to off-gas. I've used Weldwood's original (nice and stinky bad for you) for years..it has never failed me. Would like to get away from the chemicals though. Jake I have had good success with 3M water based contact cement. No fumes. Fumes from most solvent based glues that contain toululene and such give me an instant headache, so water based contact cement is great! I haven't tested how waterproof it is after setting, but water will not remove it if you let it set at all. Cleanup with water has to be fast for stuff like brushes. CTG Quote Once you know what the magician know.... it isn't magic anymore.
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