DoctorFedora Report post Posted January 17, 2012 I've recently decided to try to make a small box, and from the Al Stohlman books I learned I could make one using only leather as the support. The only problem is that I don't own the book, as I was flipping through it at my local Tandy. When I tried to make my own miter, I saw that the holes I made looked very rough and bumpy, even when sewn together. Is there a specific tool I need to use to make the holes for stitching (I am currently using am awl), or am I just making the holes incorrectly? Thanks in advance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted January 17, 2012 A picture would help. Which awl blade are you using? Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoctorFedora Report post Posted January 17, 2012 I am using a Craftool awl that I got from Tandy. Here is the piece in question. The area around the stitching looks rather bumpy. (Don't mind the additional holes, I was testing a spacer wheel on here as well.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbusarow Report post Posted January 17, 2012 Looks more like you are pulling the thread too tight. That's what is causing the leather to buckle. I'd also use a smaller thread for this application. Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted January 17, 2012 I've been trying to learn to do this just today. I'm certainly not an expert, but it looks like you might be a little too close to the edge of the leather and that is causing the fibers of the leather to bulge as you push the awl through. Also, as you pull the thread tight it would cause the leather to buckle. In the Stohlman book he recommends grooving a line back from the edge that is same distance from the edge as the thickness of two leathers. In his example the thickness of the two leathers combined is 3/16 so the grooved line is 3/16 from the edge. I've just done this on a card case I'm making and it seems a little too far in, but it's working and not buckling. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HellfireJack Report post Posted January 17, 2012 That's a scratch awl you're using. While you can use it it's not the best. A diamond pointed stitching awl will give you better looking holes and be easier to puncture the leather. And as already stated use a smaller thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoctorFedora Report post Posted January 18, 2012 I suspect Bob may be right about me being close to the edge - the bulges occur when I make the holes. However, I don't have any smaller thread, but will try to grab some next time I can. Thank you all for your help, much appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted January 18, 2012 Just as a follow up, when I was working on my card case last night I came a little too close to the edge on the back side as I was pushing the awl through, and the leather actually tore a bit. I couldn't use the hole as it was and had to 'correct' for it by making a new hole lower and to the side so it would hold the thread. So, that probably shows the experience and wisdom of using the 'two thicknesses of leather' rule that Al Stohlman mentions in the hand sewing book. My only problem is that on some of the holes you can see a little of the hole and thread from the inside of the case. I didn't do a really good job when skiving the mitered edge (it doesn't come down to a feathered edge like it's supposed to) so that might account for the problems I'm seeing inside the box. More things to try and improve on with the next case..... Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BWL Report post Posted January 18, 2012 I would agree with Dan, and your lace is too big:rolleyes2: but I will say this, I admire you starting to learn stitching on the miter, good job! Looks more like you are pulling the thread too tight. That's what is causing the leather to buckle. I'd also use a smaller thread for this application. Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DV8DUG Report post Posted December 13, 2017 On 1/17/2012 at 3:22 PM, Bob Blea said: In the Stohlman book he recommends grooving a line back from the edge that is same distance from the edge as the thickness of two leathers. In his example the thickness of the two leathers combined is 3/16 so the grooved line is 3/16 from the edge. I've just done this on a card case I'm making and it seems a little too far in, but it's working and not buckling. Bob I too, own the book and it does refer to page 7 step "C" (where it says thickness of both leathers) in the instruction for sewing a miter. This won't work well as this step was intended for sistering two pieces together. Also on the same page for sewing a miter he clearly shows the distance of sewing channel in relation to the miter. Just inside the short point on the flesh side of leather. Remember to tap down stitches with a smoothed face finish hammer while blocked. Hope this clears up any miscues... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KingsCountyLeather Report post Posted December 13, 2017 Here is a pic from instragram Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DV8DUG Report post Posted December 13, 2017 I'm kinda liking the no channel look. If you follow the link you will see most if not all of this guys stuff has no sewing channels.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billybopp Report post Posted December 13, 2017 Mitered corners are indeed a bit more complicated and less forgiving than straight up sewing two pieces together. I agree with the above observations, a round awl isn't ideal, the holes are a bit too close to the edge, and the thread is a bit too thick to work effectively, and possibly pulled too tight. - causing the leather to bulge. Amongst other things, on a corner like this, you can see both sides of the stitch line simultaneously so any errors are more visible. Because you are pulling the thread through at an angle, it's a little harder to be consistent with the angle of the awl - your eyes play tricks on you! It is more sensitive to how tight the thread is pulled since it's pulling on the hole at an angle rather than straight through - it bulges more easily. Things that can make the job easier include the proper awl, a box corner sewing jig/clam/horse/maybe-it-has-some-other-name and a smaller thread. While I also like the look of stitching without a groove, that groove can be quite helpful learning how to get your awl lined up just right giving you a clearly defined target for the exit hole. It also provides just a little forgiveness if it's not exactly right by somewhat pushing the thread into position. You may find this video by Nigel Armitage helpful! Hope that helps! Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dangerous Beans Report post Posted December 13, 2017 See if this help you out a little. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JMixx Report post Posted February 20, 2018 How cool is that? The answers to my questions were here before I was! Kind of encouraging that other people needed to ask these questions when they first started, too. :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rockoboy Report post Posted February 24, 2018 On 20/02/2018 at 3:50 PM, JMixx said: The answers to my questions were here before I was! Great minds think alike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
