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Posted

I read your response above. I had finished a very time-consuming dyeing job and and last night was going to put resolene on to finish it. I hit the leather full on with the resolene. It streaked and went on thick. Ended up looking like glue. Ruinded a few days worth of work. Now that I know resolene should be watered down, it will hopefully make a difference in future projects. Quite disturbing that there are no instructons for use on the bottle.

Thanks for the info.

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Posted

do you apply gum tragacanth before or after sealing your leather to round the edges ? im asking because i noticed a great deal of dye, enough to reveal the natural color of the leather, was removed after i dyed the leather then applied gum tragacanth. thanks in advanced all :D !

If you use Tandy's ECO line of dyes/stains, you MUST use the ECO Gum Trag, not the regular Gum Trag. It will remove the dye/stain. Note: You can do that to get some cool "weathered" effects....I found that out the hard way. :)

  • 5 years later...
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Posted

I've reading all these great recommendations,  I'm making coasters and I've used Feibing"s alcohol base dyes, sealing with Eco Flo Satin sheen, finishing with Tan Kote. I'm buffing in between each step. The problem is when it get water on them and you wipe it, the dye still comes off. I'd like to not have that! Any Suggestions??   

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Posted

This is a very old post but its suggestions are still good.  Find yourself some Resolene, dilute it 50:50 with water, and apply according to the instructions on the bottle.  Two diluted coats will work better and look nicer than one full strength coat.

  • 1 year later...
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Posted

question: im wanting to dye my nice western show saddle to black.  do i go right to black from the light brown leather or should i do dark brown first then black?  and when i put the sealer on would i do the 50/50 still?      any help would be greatly appreciated.  as it would cost me over $500 to have someone else do this. where i see this would be less then $50 prob. 

Posted
7 hours ago, theclarkkids said:

question: im wanting to dye my nice western show saddle to black.  do i go right to black from the light brown leather or should i do dark brown first then black?  and when i put the sealer on would i do the 50/50 still?      any help would be greatly appreciated.  as it would cost me over $500 to have someone else do this. where i see this would be less then $50 prob. 

Are you going to remove the current finish or trying to dye over the finish?  I would suggest removing as much of the finish as you can first.  Some people will dye with blue before they go to black.  And yes, dilute resolene 50/50.

Tom

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Posted

I had a friend that just used rubbing alcohol to like strip it and then dyed it.   she went from the light leather right to black.    and i was told not to do the 50/50 as its thin as it is.  so im just wanting to do this correctly before i mess up a very nice costly saddle.

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Posted

FWIW I'm just redyeing some car leather for a client. It was a well worn very bright yellow and he wanted it just redyed black.

I rubbed it all down with cellulose thinners to get as much of the top finish off as possible. I applied about 6 coats of black dye which was thinned 1:1 with methylated spirits. This morning it got a coating of pure neetsfoot oil, which has been buffed in. Tomorrow I'll start applying the Resolene which is also diluted 1:1 but with water. I'll apply as many coats as I see it needs

Neat Resolene dries too fast and dries streaky, also drying too fast doesn't allow it to penetrate the leather. Diluting it helps it penetrate and flow better

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

  • 4 years later...
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Posted

So after reading all this, it looks like I need to get Resolene to finish the bag I dyed and just plain ole conditioner isn't going to finish the job.

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