Cobra Class 4

[Steven Kelley]

I have a CB4500 that has the digital servo, and it works. It is a little touchy at low speed and sometimes hard to control when you want to go one stitch at a time. When I bought my 205-370, it had a clutch motor, which I immediately decided to replace. Knowing I didn't really like the digital motor that much for the speed sensitivity and I hate having to push all the buttons in a certain order just to change the speed, I decided to try one of these..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Nick-O-Sew-NKS-5500-110V-Servo-Motor-BEST-QUALITY-/110886914518?pt=BI_Sewing_Machines&hash=item19d16009d6. It seemed to be a simple servo with dial speed control, and for $100 bucks I thought I'd give it a shot. All I can say is the speed control at super slow speed is FANTASTIC. I could not be more happy with the motor, and for $100, it's a steal. I'm sure some Chinese manufacturer sells these under dozens of different names, and I wish this type motor was an option on the 441 clones, instead of the digital servo. Maybe Bob and Steve even sell this same motor.

[Sylvia]

I don't have one of these sewing machines but..... the bump on the bottom looks to me like the needle is dull and is forcing it's way though the leather instead of puncturing it.

Have you changed the needle yet to see if it improves that issue?

[particle]

Brand new needles.

[Cobra Steve]

Hi. The bumps that everyone is referring to are common. When a leather point needle cuts through dense leather, all of the leather particles are pushed through to the other side. These paticles are being pushed not by the point of the needle, but by the shank. These particles have no where else to go but out the other side. This will happen on most thick leathers. On softer leather this will happen less because softer leathers absorb the paticles since they are so much smaller. If you take a heavy leather point needle and poke a hole in a piece of paper, you will see the same "bump" even though the paticles are still attached to the piece of paper. Steve

Edited May 30, 2012 by Cobra Steve

[Ken Nelson]

Hi. The bumps that everyone is referring to are common. When a leather point needle cuts through dense leather, all of the leather particles are pushed through to the other side. These paticles are being pushed not by the point of the needle, but by the shank. These particles have no where else to go but out the other side. This will happen on most thick leathers. On softer leather this will happen less because softer leathers absorb the paticles since they are so much smaller. If you take a heavy leather point needle and poke a hole in a piece of paper, you will see the same "bump" even though the paticles are still attached to the piece of paper. Steve

This thread is amazing, People that don't have a heavy stitcher and probably never used one, all seem to have an opinion. People that have sewn a bunch have something to say and it seems to be more constructive. People that have sewn just a little bit seem to think that purchasing a machine will make them an instant expert. No way an expert am I, certainly not in the league of Art or Wizcrafts but have owned several types of heavy stitchers and a number of chap machines, but I have learned a few things: 1. If it isn't sewing the way you think it should it is probably my fault, and not the machine's. 2. "If" you call the dealer you purchased a new machine from and ask for help on what I am doing wrong they will probably talk you through the problem and graciously. 3. If something is wrong with the machine they will make it right and be more than fair with you.

Rule of Thumb for me: Call the dealer first, Call the dealer back if I don't understand what he said. GO PUBLIC as a last resort, only after I have been treated poorly by the merchant I spent my money with.

Sewing is a skill that takes a lot of practice to get good at and sometimes after you think you have it mastered, it will "eat your lunch".

Just my opinion, not that it makes any difference. Ken

[Dallas Cowboy]

As I stated earlier. The machine is great and I will PROBABLY buy one. The motor was my main complaint not the actual sewing machine. I wasn't trying to start a fight with this thread. Instead I was trying to figure out why this motor acts like it does and to hopefully figure out a fix. But it looks like I have got a few ppl rialed up and that was not my intention

[Steven Kelley]

As I stated earlier. The machine is great and I will PROBABLY buy one. The motor was my main complaint not the actual sewing machine. I wasn't trying to start a fight with this thread. Instead I was trying to figure out why this motor acts like it does and to hopefully figure out a fix. But it looks like I have got a few ppl rialed up and that was not my intention

Don't let the motor stop you from buying one. They are fantastic machines. You can buy a replacement motor that has much better slow speed control for $100. I know replacing a motor is the last thing you want to do on a new machine, but in the grand scheme of things, especially if you are selling the stuff you make, it's nothing. Maybe you could get Steve or Bob to swap out the motor ahead of time. In many ways, I prefer sewing on my CB4500 rather than my Adler 205-370, and if I had to sell one, it would be the Adler.

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Don't let the motor stop you from buying one. They are fantastic machines. You can buy a replacement motor that has much better slow speed control for $100. I know replacing a motor is the last thing you want to do on a new machine, but in the grand scheme of things, especially if you are selling the stuff you make, it's nothing. Maybe you could get Steve or Bob to swap out the motor ahead of time. In many ways, I prefer sewing on my CB4500 rather than my Adler 205-370, and if I had to sell one, it would be the Adler.

That last sentence is a mouth full of words! I think it says it all.

Bob

[ChimeraKennels]

I saw it mentioned that you could attach and extended pull bar on the motor to make it more controllable/less sensitive...but in doing so it put too much weight on the motor's switch...

Well, There is more than one way to skin a cat. Most of the machines I have seen have the pulley attached to the peddle at the back of the peddle...the area that travels the furthest with each tiny change of foot angle.

Why not move the attachment on the foot peddle closer to the pivot/fulcrum point? This way, it wouldn't travel as fast as you change your foot angle, and doing so would give you more control without adding weight on the motor's switch.

Anyway, just an idea.

[particle]

I thought of that too. Unfortunately for me it won't work, but for someone else it might. I'm actually an amputee - I have a prosthetic right foot. I control the machine and raise the presser foot with my left foot, so my left foot needs the ability to slide from pedal to pedal. If I relocated the chain closer to the pivot point, my foot would hit the chain as I move from one pedal to the other. I also debated using a couple pulleys and a cable so I could run the cable along the base of the stand, then I talked myself out of it by thinking "this is a brand new machine that I just spent a couple thousand dollars on - I shouldn't have to (and don't want to) do this!".

Right now I'm keeping the machine set at a slower speed, around 7 or 8, just to make sure I avoid any accidents by going too fast. I'm getting better at controlling the speed, but I still might consider selling this motor and buying another one like Steven mentioned.