Key Wallet From Leatherwork Manual Pattern (No Tooling)

[c2369zulu]

Hello All,

Thought I would share this little key wallet I made over the weekend. Found the pattern in the Leatherwork Manual I bought from Tandy. I did not do the tooling shown for the pattern. I used the single loop lacing method. Tandy does not carry the key drops any longer BTW. I found these at Springfield Leather Company. Only problem I found was not knowing how to finish the lacing when lacing around a single piece of leather (I dont think the book implied using a liner or two layers of leather. The lacing method shown in the manual appeared to be for a lined holster or a billfold that will have two layers of leather. The finishing lace ends would normally I guess be sandwiched between the two layers. Any suggestions/changes would be appreciated. I had a friend say he thought a bi-fold instead of tri-fold may be better...........Rory

Edited September 24, 2012 by c2369zulu

[Bob Blea]

Hi Rory,

When I first started out in leatherwork I had the Leatherwork Manual too. It's a great book and I still refer to it from time to time. I wanted to make one of these key cases but didn't know where to find key attachment. Now I know, thanks for sharing that. I like how it turned out. The inside looks like suede, did you dye the flesh side of the leather to get that look?

I recently ran into the same lacing problem you are describing, but didn't have a good solution for it. We were re-lacing an old gun belt and holster that is a family heirloom for an Aunt of mine. When it was made, it wasn't lined but it was double loop laced it's entire length. So, when it comes to splicing in a new piece of lace, you can't hide the splice inside the lining. We ended up placing it under the lacing on the edge of the belt and it looks fine from the front but it left a break in the lacing pattern on the back. We had similar problems ending the lace. There must be a good way to do it, but I didn't come up with one. I would like to know too if there is a good way to do this.

For this sort of project I would just add a pigskin lining. I have lots of it and could probably do it with scraps on hand. Barring that, is the kep drop mounted on a piece of veg tan leather? You could start and finish your lacing at the bottom of that piece so there would be a place to hide the ends. you would just need to start with enough lace to get all around the project with one piece.

Bob

[c2369zulu]

Hi Rory,

When I first started out in leatherwork I had the Leatherwork Manual too. It's a great book and I still refer to it from time to time. I wanted to make one of these key cases but didn't know where to find key attachment. Now I know, thanks for sharing that. I like how it turned out. The inside looks like suede, did you dye the flesh side of the leather to get that look?

I recently ran into the same lacing problem you are describing, but didn't have a good solution for it. We were re-lacing an old gun belt and holster that is a family heirloom for an Aunt of mine. When it was made, it wasn't lined but it was double loop laced it's entire length. So, when it comes to splicing in a new piece of lace, you can't hide the splice inside the lining. We ended up placing it under the lacing on the edge of the belt and it looks fine from the front but it left a break in the lacing pattern on the back. We had similar problems ending the lace. There must be a good way to do it, but I didn't come up with one. I would like to know too if there is a good way to do this.

For this sort of project I would just add a pigskin lining. I have lots of it and could probably do it with scraps on hand. Barring that, is the kep drop mounted on a piece of veg tan leather? You could start and finish your lacing at the bottom of that piece so there would be a place to hide the ends. you would just need to start with enough lace to get all around the project with one piece.

Bob

Bob,

Thanks for the response. Yes, the inside was just dyed along with everything else. the key drop is mounted on veg tanned of same thickness. IIRC, I just bought one of the 8.5"x11" tooling leather sheets for this at a hobby store. I was going to line this one, but decided to just do like the book showed for the first one. I used the tubular brass rivots that use the star shaped setter for this too because the quick rivots and double capped rivots seemed too long. I cut about an 1/8th inch off the tubular rivot shaft. Good point on starting/ending at the insert to tuck the ends into. Now that I think about it, it was dumb of me not to. Thanks for looking.........Rory

[PANTHER]

you did a nice job on the key case. also thanks for the info on where to get the key drops. have been looking for them with little luck. One thing that i do is use a roller to flaten my laceing. it gives a nice finish and makes the piece less bulky.

Panther

[Northmount]

Hi Rory,

When I first started out in leatherwork I had the Leatherwork Manual too. It's a great book and I still refer to it from time to time. I wanted to make one of these key cases but didn't know where to find key attachment. Now I know, thanks for sharing that. I like how it turned out. The inside looks like suede, did you dye the flesh side of the leather to get that look?

I recently ran into the same lacing problem you are describing, but didn't have a good solution for it. We were re-lacing an old gun belt and holster that is a family heirloom for an Aunt of mine. When it was made, it wasn't lined but it was double loop laced it's entire length. So, when it comes to splicing in a new piece of lace, you can't hide the splice inside the lining. We ended up placing it under the lacing on the edge of the belt and it looks fine from the front but it left a break in the lacing pattern on the back. We had similar problems ending the lace. There must be a good way to do it, but I didn't come up with one. I would like to know too if there is a good way to do this.

For this sort of project I would just add a pigskin lining. I have lots of it and could probably do it with scraps on hand. Barring that, is the kep drop mounted on a piece of veg tan leather? You could start and finish your lacing at the bottom of that piece so there would be a place to hide the ends. you would just need to start with enough lace to get all around the project with one piece.

Bob

For small articles, easy to go around with one length of lace. For larger perimeters, skive the ends of the lace and do a wet join (glue).

For items like your belt, join the lace so you only have the beginning and ending to hide, or if going all the way around, just have the ends to hide on that final join. If the item is thick enough, you can slice into the leather from the edge, so you now have two layers and can bury the ends there. You can make a narrow slit in the back side to bring your needle out through, cut the lace, poke it down and glue the slit back together. For lighter stuff, you are stuck with hiding ends under the lace braid itself. Try to do it on the edge, under the braid rather than on the back.

CTG

[mlapaglia]

Start at the middle of the bottom. Right in the middle of the piece that holds the key links. Finish at the same point. You have two layers of leather at this point to hide the lace in. Thats how I did mine when I made one.

[c2369zulu]

Thanks everyone for the responses and suggestions.........Rory

[Bob Blea]

For small articles, easy to go around with one length of lace. For larger perimeters, skive the ends of the lace and do a wet join (glue).

For items like your belt, join the lace so you only have the beginning and ending to hide, or if going all the way around, just have the ends to hide on that final join. If the item is thick enough, you can slice into the leather from the edge, so you now have two layers and can bury the ends there. You can make a narrow slit in the back side to bring your needle out through, cut the lace, poke it down and glue the slit back together. For lighter stuff, you are stuck with hiding ends under the lace braid itself. Try to do it on the edge, under the braid rather than on the back.

CTG

Thanks for the good ideas Northmount!

Bob