Stitched Trim. Is It Magic?

[MonsterMan]

I have a "how to" question on stitched trim. I saw the "rolled edges" post (not the same type) and I searched about 10 pages back to make sure this isn't a redundant post. I didn't see anything, so hopefully it's not. I've been staring at these pictures I found on the web, trying to reverse engineer it by sight. I'm usually able to figure most things out, but for some reason this is messing with my head! Haha. I know this is probably not that complicated, but something about how to work out the steps is not clicking. Right now, I've been trying to achieve a similar effect by grooving, burnishing, and then doing a two tone dye job, but to me, actually having a rolled edge with a stitched lining is much more clean and professional looking than my current results. Any info on how to accomplish this magic trick will be greatly appreciated!!! :D

Here's a few example photos...

[electrathon]

Tuck and roll. It is sewn face to face, flipped around, back to back and sewn again (the sewing you see). There is also a liner on the inside.

[MonsterMan]

I think the problem was that I was thinking that the two rolled edges were the same piece of leather under the red. Obviously, you can't flip the leather and sew the inside of the roll on both sides, so that's what was getting me. Just now, I zoomed in really close on the photo of the cuffs, I see that the rolls are in fact two separate pieces and they extend past the stitching. Now, I wonder, would it be appropriate to put some kind of spacer or padding in there to keep from creating a "hollow" feel between the red leather and the lining?

[MonsterMan]

You know, the lining is also rolled, so my other question is, do you guys think that the stitching visible on the outside is actually stitched through the lining as well or is the lining stitched separately and then just held in place by the various rivets and whatnot?

[electrathon]

There are three pieces. The outter leather, the rolled leather and the lining. The rolled and the outter are sewn face to face. It is wrapped back around and the edge of both pieces fill up the bubble. It is likely glued to the back of the main piece. The lining is then placed behind the main piece, the stitching seam you see on the fornt holds it all togeather.

I think.

[BunnyMade]

Those rolled edges on the posture collars look more like piping with some sort of padding, but I could be wrong. Check out upholstery stores, they make something called "mopcord" or welting cord in different thickness and spongy-ness. As far as appropriate goes for fetish gear, I think it's better to be sure that the wearer isn't injured by accident or from poor workmanship.

However, keep in mind: the more simple you make your items (grooving/bevel/etc), the more likely they are to last. Stitching does come loose, and I find that my clients get very attached to gear - especially when it's made custom order. I've had more than a few folks come to me with other peoples items and beg me to fix mistakes, filling my ears with complaints of the salient details of how it failed.

Also, if you find the maker of those spikes in pic 3.. mommy want. :D

[MonsterMan]

The spikes in pic 3 can be bought here...

http://studsandspikes.com/

I've ordered from them before and they were actually pretty quick about it. You'll definitely pay the mark up, but short of ordering them overseas, that's the only place I know that has a good selection of different stuff.

Also, just for comparison, I'm going to throw in a pic of what I'm doing with my pieces right now. It's well received by folks, but I definitely think the padded look of having it stitched together is aesthetically pleasing.

[BunnyMade]

2$ for a spike and I gotta bend it myself? Feh. My clumsy self would mar the finish every time.

Some constructive thoughts on your photo: put your item on a neutral background. If you have problems with the chrome being too shiny, stuff it in the freezer for a few moments. The reason I say this is because I'm having a hard time focusing on the work and not the mar... OOH SHINY!

[MonsterMan]

Thanks for the tip.

You shouldn't have to bend them yourself!They have quite a few claw spikes. Looks like virtually the same hardware as in the pic. Here's the link to that page...

http://studsandspike...es-c-43_76.html

Although, yes, the prices are ridiculously high.

Also! I forgot to thank you for the "mopcord" idea. I'll check it out. I also agree that when it come to play gear, strength and function should reign over looks. Of course, slave/posture collars, pretty does count! Haha. Hopefully, no one is going to be so hard on one of my collars that it fails, because your subs neck will most likely fail first.

Edited January 21, 2013 by MonsterMan

[JLSleather]

That's what I thought too -- piping

[WScott]

I have read about this style of edging French edge or seam something like that. Basically a welt stitched between the front and back pieces

You can put a cord in the middle of the fold over for shape and sturdiness

Just trying to find the reference for you

kind of what you are looking for??

"http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42276&hl=edging#entry263086"

[MonsterMan]

That does look like basically the same thing. Thank you for the link! Now it's just a matter of giving it a try and see how it works out. Wonder if my old Singer machine can handle this?

[oreste]

Hello Maybe this link will help good luck

http://www.google.de...r:17,s:400,i:55

[MonsterMan]

Thank you for the effort. Looks like it's an incomplete link though.

[JLD]

Hi Monsterman,

Can I ask who made the red collar and cuffs, they look nice and I would be interested (not personally) in see more of their work.

Johanne

[billymac814]

I don't think its piping because you can see in the one picture that the red lining goes up in it(if that makes sense). I think its done like keven king does the edges on some of his wallets. Look at some of the tutorials he has done.

[Ferg]

I think all of you are making this to be a lot more difficult than it is.

The dark colored piece has the edges skived so the roll is fairly thin. The red piece is skived very thin on the edges, glued, and rolled.

You then glue the red piece to the dark after the dark has been rolled and glued. Stitching through everything with a contrasting thread makes the piece both attractive and strong.

No edges to burnish.

ferg

[immiketoo]

Bunny, a more consistent way to reduce the glare on your pics is to use a light box while shooting. This way, you wont have to frost your metal attachments prior to pics, nor will you have a problem with thawing

[Ferg]

A couple photos to show you how I do this. Keep in mind that this is just done with some scraps using my new Skiving Machine.

May illustrate a little better than trying to explain.

The edges are skived to as near half the thickness of the leather piece you are using so when you fold the edge back and glue it down the edge is the same thickness as original.

This method can be used to roll the edges of purses, wallets, belts, dog collars, watch bands, etc.

ferg

[JLD]

Hi,

Kevin King has posted a video on how to make these edges the link is

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=44293

In the case of the cuffs etc the final sewing to secure the binding after the Stitch tape would include the lining fixing all three layers in one hit.

Can I re-ask who made the red cuffs set please

Johanne

[MonsterMan]

Here's the link to their Etsy page.

http://www.etsy.com/shop/restrictionwear?ref=seller_info_count

Restrictionwear out of Poland. Never heard of em', but the work sure looks nice!

Thank you to everyone putting their 2 cents in on this post. I appreciate it!

[WScott]

I found another rolled edge posting...not exactly like your photo, but still a good tutorial.

"http://leatherworker...howtopic=30270"

It links into this Kevin King demo

"http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9940"

Hope these help

Edited January 25, 2013 by WScott