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I Need To Tell You How Much I Hate The Consew Servo Motor...


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Posted

Thanks Tor,

I already bought a CSM1000. Seems a solid enough motor. I'm not using it for sewing, rather, I'm using it on a Swiss lathe for watchmaking. Schaublin 70. My inquiry was to attempt to find schematics for the CSM1000 to design a PC interface for speed control, but schematics are very difficult to find these days. I resorted to probing with an isolated DVM at the footpedal, and devised a way to drive the CSM1000 servo from a PC.

This requires electrical isolation, as the hall effect sensor in the foot pedal sits at 160 VDC above PE (Protective Earth) ground, AND it carries 120 VAC. NOTE: The foot pedal DOES NOT carry a PE ground wire up to it's case, so if the pedal is mounted to a wooden (insulated) bench and the footpedal control fails.....the operator is in for an unpleasant shock at least, particularly if they are in bare feet!

I strongly reccommend that users of any of these motors make their own PE ground wire connection in order to conform to reasonable safety precautions such as those embodied in UL or CE directives. This is easy and involves only making reliable connections (preferably with using green/yellow stripe wire) from the foot pedal itself, up to the foot pedal control box, and back to the servo amplifier. The motor frame should also have such a PE ground, and it does on this particular model. All this can be easily 'beeped out' with a DVM.

Anyway, I'm solving my control problem with a simple PWM/opto-coupler interface. Schematic from the manufacturer notwithstanding. ;-)

Regards,

John B

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The "style" of the controller appears to vary with different models/manufacturers, but I would guess that the innards are the same.

edit: I just did a bit more looking, and this one looks almost identical to the Consew

I'd watch out with this - manufacturers will use the same external designs but the internal parts quality and capability can vary tremendously from one company to another. Same goes with machines.

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Techsew Industrial Sewing Machines
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Posted

From one inveterate tinkerer to another then......

Just getting started, the pic shows merely that I've installed a SPDT switch to switch from foot control to PC control, and a jack to receive the PC generated speed signal (the optocoupler input).

It is quite fortunate the servo amp supplies +5VDC to drive the hall effect switch mounted there on the PCB under that pivot arm which has a fairly stron magnet at it's end. So, that +5VDC and it's 'ground' (which sits at 160 VDC above PE (Protective Earth) potential, and carries a 120 VAC 'ripple'). I've not tried yet to float an Oscope to see what this 120VAC component actually looks like. But the +5VDC is a nice clean logic supply with respect to it's 'ground'. I'm going to call that UG, short for Ugly Ground.

Anyway, this +5VDC and UG can be used nicely to bias the output of an opto-coupler. A little R-C integrator formed at the opto-coupler output, and driven PWM style from the opto-coupler input will work.......with a little tinkering. ;-)

Will keep you posted if you like. Actually, very customized speed controls for these machines are not that difficult, even an Arduino based fancy control panel is possible. There will ultimately be a feedback signal from the spindle to map a sort of lookup table of function to get the speeds I want more exactly.

Ciao,

JB_52

-John

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While what you are doing is of no practical use to me, since I'm only using the servo on a sewing machine and it's perfectly adequate for that use, it had already occurred to me that these motors could have other uses - like on a lathe. In that case some form of speed control, other than the lever system they come with, would be needed - basically a simple rheostat should suffice. So yep, I for one am interested to see what you come up with.

Ron, you make a valid point. I just figured that, as a matter of cost expediency, if a factory is producing these control boards then the logical thing is for the "manufacturer" of the servos to source the boards already built rather than go to the expense of building their own. The fact that the controls/display all appear to be functionally similar lends some weight to such a thought.

However, I can't say for certain that is the case.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

  • 3 weeks later...
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Posted (edited)

Found this thread right on time... Im looking at getting a servo for a Tacsew L1 or T1563 i found on craigslist (this is the Juki 563 clone WITH reverse right??) I would most likely be installing it myself...

Anybody have suggestions, or will the Family Sew that Kovar sells still good enough?

Backstory: I will be sewing 3-5 oz leathers like Horween essex/Dublin etc, some veg tan as well, also leathers as thin as Lamb/pig/and python skin. Sewing the uppers to replace on sneakers. I dont think i should need a reducer... At least i hope not. Thanks!

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Edited by MG513
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Posted

The Consew motor has nothing to do with the Ho Hsing brand. The Consew motors are made in China and are just the same as many other brands of Chinese motors. The Chinese have yet to brake the code on making good servo motors. They have plenty of watt and enough torque in the digital ones, but poor low speed control and no working needle position. (of course some are working as they should, this is general speaking) The Chinese sewing machines on the other hand has become very good. That's why I recommend a good Japanese low priced servo motor, the Ho Hsing G60 (600 watts servo motor with needle position and expand options). Then you will avoid these problems and have a proper support too.

To get any info about the Consew, go to http://www.consew.com/list/machine-stands/servo-motors

Good luck

Tor

Ho Hsing motors are made Taiwan, not Japan, since the early 60s, http://www.hohsing.com/index.php/en/about-us-en/history-en

Quality, support, setup is very good on Ho Hsing motors, and I like working with them when the application, machine and motor are correct.

Industrial sewing and cutting, parts sales and service, family owned since 1977, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA, 215/922.6900 info@keysew.com www.keysew.com

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Ho Hsing motors are made Taiwan, not Japan, since the early 60s, http://www.hohsing.com/index.php/en/about-us-en/history-en

Quality, support, setup is very good on Ho Hsing motors, and I like working with them when the application, machine and motor are correct.

I was gonna call you guys yesterday but you have such weird hours lol. Do you guys sell a piping/roller foot that can attach to a tacsew 563 (juki copy)? Im looking for some feet and i guess proper feed dogs I can put on that wont mark up veg tan leather?? Thanks

  • 6 months later...
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Posted

How do I take off the pulley and where can I find an appropriate smaller replacement pulley?

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Posted

Call Greg at Keystone (above),  I'm sure he have something. If not try Bob Kowar member name "CowboyBob" Toledo industrial Sewing machines. You start with removing the nut. I do not know this motor, but I'm sure one of the above mentioned dealers do. They will take care of you.

Tor  

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted
7 minutes ago, Trox said:

Call Greg at Keystone (above),  I'm sure he have something. If not try Bob Kowar member name "CowboyBob" Toledo industrial Sewing machines. You start with removing the nut. I do not know this motor, but I'm sure one of the above mentioned dealers do. They will take care of you.

Tor  

thanks! I'll give him a buzz in the morning. 

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