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Posted

I have a tack order for a headstall, slobber straps, and breast collar. The issue is the customer wants black. I know that given time I will re-coup my money if I buy a side of black leather, but it may take awhile before I get enough orders for black projects. If I bought a side of regular veg tanned, Is it difficult to get a nice finish by dyeing black? I have other orders I could make out of a veg tanned side.

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Posted

I would buy black and sell what you don't use if you don't want to keep the extra.

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Posted

Most of us dye our leather all the time. I "only" dye by immersion, . . . using a 9 x 14 cake pan, . . . and I just run the leather end to end through it like a snake, . . . it probably spends something like 5 seconds actually in the dye.

On long skinny projects, . . . like yours, . . . lay down newspaper on a large flat surface, . . . lay the pieces on the edge for the first 1/2 hour of drying. I know this sounds goofy, . . . but I've had the dye "run" on belts and other pieces that were long and skinny, . . . winds up light colored on one end, . . . heavy color on the bottom end.

I wear disposable rubber gloves, . . . and use only Feibings Oil Dye. USMC black gives you a super color, . . . but buffing off the extra pigment is a long time job, . . . and to me just isn't worth the extra effort.

Also, . . . and I know there is a difference of opinion on this, . . . but I personally don't like working with factory dyed leather. I cannot seem to get it to mold, fold, groove, or stamp like undyed veg tan.

The other factor to put into the equation is the cost of the dye. A quart of the dye I use is in the 30 buck range, . . . an upfront cost that you could apply toward the side of black leather. I've never dyed a full side at one time, . . . but I'd think it would take at least one quart, . . . maybe two, . . . and you need to figure that into your thinking.

Good luck.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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Posted

I just bought a drum dyed black hide. It's easier to work with if you are making things of a single color and don't need to add any other colors.

 

Learnleather.com

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Posted

Either would be fine. I've decided to switch to drum dyed for black because it'll save me a little time and I go through it fast enough. Nothing wrong with dying it though if you won't use it. Get the Fiebings pro oil dye unless you like buffing leather for a long time.

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Posted

I can't predict the colors that I use, and rarely do I get a request for "pure" black. So, for me, it's dye all the way. But, if I ever get to a point where a lot of people want straight black stuff, then I'd look into a pre-dyed side.

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Posted

I have yet to buy black leather. I would definitely dye my own for smaller and medium size projects. For something like saddle bags or a garment type project I would consider factory dyed.

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Posted

Thanks for the good advice all, looks like dyeing is the best option at this stage of the game.

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Posted

I love buying my leather already drum dyed black...if I need to touch it up, it's a breeze.

Posted

When i was doing a lot tack the only time i ever sold anything that was black that includes saddles, saddle bags, headstalls and reins was to a person that had just bought their first horse. I wouldn't trade for a black saddle if i could keep from it because they were so hard to sell. I would say dye what you need and you have the rest of the side for regular orders.

I'm old enough to know that i don't know everything.

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