glockanator Report post Posted May 25, 2013 What's the best way to attach IWB straps? Should I glue a T nut in between the layers or is there a better way of attaching them? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shooter McGavin Report post Posted May 26, 2013 I poke the t-nuts through the back side. I used to sandwich them and then stripped one out. No more t-nut sandwiches for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glockanator Report post Posted May 26, 2013 Thanks shooter! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted May 26, 2013 For IWB straps, I tend to punch holes for them. For safety straps, I've been sandwiching them. Mainly because of where the snap is located and not wanting any metal inside the holster with the gun. If you sandwich them be sure to figure out your stitch line before you place the t nut. Can't stitch through metal. And stitching around it looks funny. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted May 26, 2013 I poke the t-nuts through the back side. I used to sandwich them and then stripped one out. No more t-nut sandwiches for me. +1 on this. T-nuts can be stripped out by overtightening the attachment screw. Cross-threading happens with some frequency, ruining both the T-nut and the screw. It has been my experience that hardware failures are the cause of over 90% of all warranty returns, so anything that complicates changing out the hardware seriously complicates the correction. A T-nut can be popped out and replaced in about a minute, as compared to manufacturing another holster. The straps and associated hardware undergo far more wear and tear than any other part of the holster. It makes sense to allow for easy replacement. It also provides the customer with a product that provides much longer service life. As Chiefjason has noted, any hardware placement that results in exposed metal parts inside the holster requires another approach. A good holster should protect the contents, not cause unnecessary wear or damage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glockanator Report post Posted May 26, 2013 What size T nuts for line 20 snaps? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjcinin317 Report post Posted May 26, 2013 I hate the sight of screw nuts on the back of a holster. SO UNPROFESSIONAL! Buy better quality nuts. Does milt sparks have exposed t-nuts? NO! Who sells more holsters? You or Milt Sparks? If it comes back fix it. Do it right or don't do it. No offense. Just a pet peeve. Send a letter with your holsters letting them know its not supposed to be used with a pneumatic driver. Puts it on them. And then still fix it!!!! Again no offense. C.J. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted May 26, 2013 (edited) What size T nuts for line 20 snaps? I use 6/32 screw and T nut on line 24's and pull the dots. You can also use 8/32. The main issue is getting the screw where the head will sink into the hardware so that it does not interfere with function. Round headed screws can poke up out of the hardware and interfere with the snap seating correctly. I use flat head machine screws like this, but with a phillips head. http://www.mcfeelys....0130526171744:s I also use brad nail T nuts. They are the flat ones with holes. If you use the standard T nuts they will dig into the leather. I'm not opposed to the customer choosing those on their own. They tend to be a touch more secure and don't allow the clip or loop to turn on the holsters. But I'm not going to send hardware that is adjustable and pokes holes in the holster. http://www.lowes.com/pd_223649-37672-883043_0__?productId=3025380 Edited May 26, 2013 by chiefjason Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted May 26, 2013 I use snaps, . . . sandwiched, . . . as said before, . . . if you do it right the first time and use quality products, . . . your trouble should be minimum. I only use t nuts when putting furniture together. Leather gets snaps and rivets. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SooperJake Report post Posted May 26, 2013 I use snaps, . . . sandwiched, . . . as said before, . . . if you do it right the first time and use quality products, . . . your trouble should be minimum. I only use t nuts when putting furniture together. Leather gets snaps and rivets. May God bless, Dwight Aren't the base part of the snaps too short to attach the loop to the holster? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted May 27, 2013 Aren't the base part of the snaps too short to attach the loop to the holster? Uhhh, . . . no, . . . now that you ask. This is my stock and trade holster, . . . that's how I do it. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SooperJake Report post Posted May 27, 2013 Uhhh, . . . no, . . . now that you ask. This is my stock and trade holster, . . . that's how I do it. May God bless, Dwight Dwight , What weight leather are you using and is the base snap through the whole holster or just one layer? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted May 27, 2013 I hate the sight of screw nuts on the back of a holster. SO UNPROFESSIONAL! Buy better quality nuts. Does milt sparks have exposed t-nuts? NO! Who sells more holsters? You or Milt Sparks? If it comes back fix it. Do it right or don't do it. No offense. Just a pet peeve. Send a letter with your holsters letting them know its not supposed to be used with a pneumatic driver. Puts it on them. And then still fix it!!!! Again no offense. C.J. Thanks for sharing your little pet peeve with us. I've only been doing this little business for 41-plus years, and I only deliver about 2,000 products annually to all 50 US states and 32 foreign countries (so far), so I always appreciate input from those who know more than I do. Best regards. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjcinin317 Report post Posted May 27, 2013 Didn't mean to ruffle any feathers or seem to know more then anyone. Certainly not someone with 40 plus years in the game. Just my opinion. I'm sure I'm not the only one that feels as I do. C.J. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted May 27, 2013 Dwight , What weight leather are you using and is the base snap through the whole holster or just one layer? 7 oz, . . . through the front plate of the holster and through the IWB strap, . . . put em on with a $10 rivet tool I bought at Walmart. I don't have anything against using t nuts other than I just simply chose not to use them. My reasoning is simple, . . . I lose things. If there is a nut or a bolt anywhere on my *********** that can come off and get lost, . . . it will. If you drive by a yard, . . . see the lawn mower sitting idle, . . . and the old grey haired guy walking around the yard like he is looking for something, . . . that may be me, . . . looking for parts off my mower, . . . it just happens When I put a snap on my IWB strap, . . . it isn't coming off until someone takes a pair of side cutters and cuts it off. That was the business model I chose back in '04 or so, . . . and it has been working for me ever since. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted May 27, 2013 I have yet to get a pull the dot or line 24 snap with a long enough post to use on 8-9 oz leather. That's been my issue. I ordered some snap parts from Dot, and the caps I got are no where near long enough for me to use. Anybody need 100 caps with short posts? Apparently, these are for fabric. I need to see if you can order different lengths. I may have missed that part. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted May 27, 2013 Chiefjason, . . . I too have some pull the dot snaps, . . . I think I got them from Sail Rite, . . . but I only ordered the inner male and female parts. I use the Tandy posts. I just checked and they measure right at .334 to .337 in length. Two pieces of 9 oz leather is only .281, . . . so there should be plenty of length there. I have "cheated" a time or two on the male post if it seems to be close: I go to the back side and lightly skive off a few thousandths, . . . sometimes makes all the difference in the world. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted May 28, 2013 Brigade Gun Leather uses the t-nuts on their IWB holsters, looks damn nice too. And they're exposed on the backside. I believe I'll expose mine when I get around to working on an IWB in the near future. I like the idea of how a sandwiched nut would look. However I use a machine and don't wanna hit it with a needle. Plus, if it strips out it can easily be replaced by the user. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
triage1998 Report post Posted May 28, 2013 I prefer to sandwich my T-nuts but I haven't stripped one out yet like Shooter has lol. As soon as I do I will probably go to just putting them through the back of the holster. Nothing worse than making a horsehide and elephant holster that sells for $200+ and ruining it because I stripped out a 2¢ T-Nut Brigade Gunleather T-Nuts are really nice. Anyone have a line on really nice black #6 or #8 T-Nuts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
supercub Report post Posted May 28, 2013 (edited) Another option instead of t nuts might be a slotted post - like an open ended Chicago screw. Knife kits sells them in black oxide in 8/32. I haven't yet found them in 6/32. They are easy to replace and fairly unobtrusive. Edited May 28, 2013 by supercub Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boothill Bob Report post Posted May 28, 2013 I recomend T-nut and put them between the leather.. I use that way in my pattern pack. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Billsotx Report post Posted May 31, 2013 (edited) What's the best way to attach IWB straps? Should I glue a T nut in between the layers or is there a better way of attaching them? I always shorten the prongs of the t-nuts before I install them; just clip them with a pair of farrier nippers or wire cutters (dikes, dykes, diagonal pliers, whatever you prefer to call them) and you won't have them poking through the leather. If you're making an IWB like the Bruce Nelson Summer Special you don't want the t-nut marring the gun's finish. Edited May 31, 2013 by Billsotx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glockanator Report post Posted June 1, 2013 Here is finished product I just put the t nut on the back of the sheath. This is a cold steel voyager its 9 1/4 inches when open. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Billsotx Report post Posted June 1, 2013 Good job. That'll work for that design sheath or holster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted June 3, 2013 I really enjoyed this thread. I took a few things from it and applied it to my latest holster. I used size 6-32 tee nuts and 6-32 flat top 100 degree screws. I placed the tee nuts on the outside of the leather as I was worried I may hit it with the sewing machine needle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites