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Posted

Well, I figured out the last piece of the puzzle (the footpedal) and thought I'd share with those that may be interested in doing the same thing.

The footpedal assembly is made using (2) U-bolts that are covered in a vinyl tubing of the same diameter. I drilled out the frame and installed the u-bolts as shown. The pedal is a standard foot pedal with ~3/4" holes. I cut a piece of 3/4" EMT conduit to act as the support the bar for the pedal. Then just slide the conduit through the u-bolts and the footpedal. The whole assembly removes super quickly but just loosening 4 of the crown nuts on the u-bolts.

To keep the pedal from moving side to size I bought a PVC nipple with an interior diameter of 3/4". I cut it in half and drilled and tapped a set screw in each of the pvc pieces. I installed them on the tube underneath the pedal and butted each piece up against the sides of the pedal. This locks the pedal in place but still allows it to operate smoothly.

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Posted

That looks amazing! I could post pictures of a few stands I made... But, they're not even close to that! Now I want one! Taking orders?? Ha!

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Posted

awharness -- thank yoU! I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Post photos of your stands! It's great to see options and my table may not be an option for people without access to a welding setup.

I'm in the process of following "ElConquistador"'s method of building a table top use (2) peices of 3/4" plywood. I just finished gluing and screwing the two halves together. I drilled clearance holes in the bottom board every 9" or so, applied about 16oz to the top board, leveled it out with a putty knife and then screwed the bottom half on. It's drying now. I'll post photos of the completed top when it's finished.

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Posted

OK, I know this isn't what the thread is talking about, but I just had to add my Industrial Sewing Cabinet "Slip N Slide" to the fracas for fun.

I set up my Slip N Slide when I re-sew dirty, nasty, old truck tarps or swimming pool covers out on my patio. Some thread runs are over 30 feet long, on an item up to 20 feet wide. I elevate the feed surface, and lower the sewn surface to help feed the item through the machine as a 1-man operation. Most of the time spent is re-folding instead of sewing. An old metal door on one end and a piece of roofing tin on the other....

It works.

CD in Oklahoma

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"I sew, I sew, so it's off to work I go....."
My sewing machines:

Adler 205-370 (Hand Crank), Adler 205-64 (Hand Crank), Consew 226 (Clutch/Speed Reducer), Singer 111G156 (Hand Crank or Clutch), Singer 111W153 (Clutch), Singer 20U33 (Clutch), Singer 78-3 Needlefeed (Treadle), Singer 20U (Treadle), Singer 29K70 (x2) (Both Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 96-40 w/Darning Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 w/Roller Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 (Hand Crank), Singer 16-41 (Treadle), Singer 66-1 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 201K4 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 216G Zigzag (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 319W (Treadle)

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Posted

Here are a few photos of "ElConquistador"'s method suggested earlier in the thread. The table feels very, very solid. I wish I wouldn't have refained from staining it though. I made the table from two scrap pieces of 3/4" "cabinet grade" plywood. Basically about $15 in wood.

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Posted

I bought a solid industrial sewing top for 65 bucks...then 2 used H legs for $50.....couple of screws and 15 minutes of cutting a hole....did I do well??????

http://www.elfwood.com/~alien883

First it is just leather....then it is what-ever I can dream off...

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Nice color, but remember the best color is white. Or else you need allot of light.

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

Perhaps the copper pipe looks a bit on the light side. The black pipe appears to look much more substantial. I too, was looking for a new bench/table, although something ready made. Everything from Lowe's, Home Depot, Grainger was way too pricey for me. I found what I was looking for at Sam's Club, 25"x60" width and length, 1 3/4" solid hardwood top, steel powder coated legs and frame, this thing is built like a Mack truck, and could be easily converted to accept a variety of machines. Extremely solid throughout, heavy, adjustable, rubber footed casters on each leg [6 legs -two in the center] the best part.. $212 with tax. The worst part, that thing was a killer, trying to pull the carton into the building, definitely a two man job.

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Posted

OK, I gotta chime in - let me start by saying Nice job on the table and legs !! I was hoping to see the black iron pipe version - visit a scrap yard, you may be surprised what you will find. A few years back I scored a 120 gallon compressor tank for scrap price.

Harbor Freight (admit it, you buy their stuff) has a workbench suitable for a machine- Being I have alot of MDF and plywood, I prefer 1-1/2" MDF with a plastic laminate top and T edging= I'm still using K legs, but mounted them to a heavy duty cart w/ 3" wheels at the same height as my other benches in the shop.

Lots of good stuff here !

When I was young - all I wanted was to be a kid - I still am . . .

  • 11 months later...
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Posted

You have inspired my to try to build my own sewing table to hold my Consew 206RB-2.

I found a Table to start from at a local university surplus property site for $20. I think it will look nice and hold up. The top is 1 1/8 that I will screw and glue another piece to the bottom for re-enforcement. The legs are 3/8 aluminum plate. I think I will go get 1-2 more for work surface. They also had some that were adjustable height and different legs but solid.

I don't have the skill I see on these pages, but I will slowly post some picts of my progress.

Sewing Table, BEFORE

Table Legs

Table legs

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