alexitbe Posted January 11, 2015 Report Posted January 11, 2015 I have a problem with builing a table for my Durkopp 241. The cut out for the belt should actually remove the corner support (shown in the manual). Infact it seems that it is only supported at the two front corners by two corner brackets. The rest of the weight must be taken by the two hinges at the back. That is my guess. Anyway, I don't like having such limitted support ad would rather spread the weight out. What do you think about me making a 1/4" lip aroun the edges and gluing a rubber gasket on to reduce vibration and to hide any issue with not cutting flat. Maybe I should upload a drawing Quote
Members SARK9 Posted January 11, 2015 Members Report Posted January 11, 2015 I remember encountering *somewhere* that the table cut-outs for German machines is somewhat different than those for the Japanese and American machines. I do not have an German industrial here to try in my tables, however. This may have been in reference to certain "garment" class machines, but its something to verify. -DC Quote Machines: Juki LU-563, Consew 206-RB5, Singer 20U33, Pfaff 481, Mitsubishi CU-865-22, Consew 29B, Rebadged Juki LU-562, Mitsubishi LS2-180, Seiko SK-6, Juki LG-158-1
Members Constabulary Posted January 12, 2015 Members Report Posted January 12, 2015 it depends - older Pfaff 145 f.i. have the same size as the 111 type machines but the more modern ones (Adler, Pfaff, Durkopp...) have a longer base because of having the option to set it up as 1 and 2 needle machine. Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members BodegaBrasil Posted January 29, 2015 Members Report Posted January 29, 2015 (edited) Inspired by you guys, I decided to built a table for my new acquisition, a SINGER 168W 101.To take advantage of the price + shipping I decided that I didn't need the table/legs/motor.But the person didn't tell me the HINGES are far from the ordinary ones!Now they want to charge me $200 for table + S&H and 20 BUCKS FOR EACH HINGE!!!!Not going to say who is the place but it's in Florida ... good hint hun?Any of you know where could I get this specific hinge?(Trying to attach an image of a CONSEW 329R-1's back that looks exactly what I need ...)http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/-C8AAOSwhh5Tn0Ub/$_57.JPG Edited January 29, 2015 by BodegaBrasil Quote
Members Constabulary Posted January 29, 2015 Members Report Posted January 29, 2015 Is this what you need? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Singer-107W-143W-112W-Table-Hinge-Hook-210844-202259-/280419094123?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item414a47ce6b http://www.ebay.com/itm/Singer-145W-300W-Machine-Table-Hinge-Plate-2pcs-/271285513569?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f29e06d61 Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members BodegaBrasil Posted January 29, 2015 Members Report Posted January 29, 2015 Constabulary ... with all respect, but I LOVE YOU!Thank you VERY VERY VERY VERY MUCH!Owe you one! Quote
Members Constabulary Posted January 29, 2015 Members Report Posted January 29, 2015 I drink beer or redwine.... Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members BodegaBrasil Posted January 29, 2015 Members Report Posted January 29, 2015 No sweat !!! Quote
Members thesergeant Posted March 23, 2015 Author Members Report Posted March 23, 2015 (edited) Hey guys, so I was hoping to get some input on these table legs before I commit and solder everything together. Do you think I need a cross brace connecting the back two vertical legs? My concern is side to side rocking. I know I should have used flanges to mount the individual legs to the table top but they're absurdly expensive. Instead I'm going to use pipe straps on the corners of the 90* elbows and then drill out and put in two or three rivets connecting the pipe, elbow and straps together.These legs are for my Singer 114w103 vintage chainstitch embroidery machine. If they work out I'll be remaking all the legs and tops for all of our machines to match (per the bosses orders aka wife) The top will be a 1-3/8" walnut butcher block table top with a 50# industrial machine and 14# motor. Think I'm safe as is or should I add a cross brace along the back? Thanks guys! Edited March 23, 2015 by thesergeant Quote
Uwe Posted March 23, 2015 Report Posted March 23, 2015 It looks great but I'm concerned about the load bearing ability of that design. I'm thinking you'll need a cross brace at the very least, better yet two - and even then you may be pushing it. As it is, any sideways motion of the heavy top is going to get amplified into a VERY large twisting motion at the bottom center T-joints. Don't underestimate the power of levers and you have a formidable lever that has a 30" vertical lever twisting a pipe (joint) that is perhaps an inch thick, giving you a roughly 30x torque multiplier - it may very well twist the pipe itself if you bump into it hard enough with that much weight on top. Adding a few T connector vertically will improve the situation a great deal. Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.