Has Anyone Built Their Own Industrial Sewing Tables? --Can You Critique My Idea?

[Trox]

That's similar to what I ended up doing with my 441 clone. I needed to fit it into a smaller space than the original table would allow so after cutting the original table in two and seeing the awful junk it was made of (pressure bonded scraps of ply with huge voids in it) I chucked it and used laminated MDF from an office desk.

Here's the cut edge of the original table showing the junk it's made of:

441-assembled2.jpg

Here's what I originally did with the half width table:

441-assembled5.jpg

That was a good size but I couldn't fit the Ho-Hsing motor on it so when I added that motor I replaced the table top with the formica covered MDF one. It's only an inch thick but it's plenty solid. I wouldn't use it for a flatbed top, it's way too thin, but with the 441 head sitting exactly over the post on the stand it's fine. The only movement in the whole system is the motor moving slightly on the rubber mounting grommets.

IMG_2222.JPGIMG_2227.JPGIMG_2227.JPG

I also did things like add a holder for the oilcan. Eventually I'll add space to hang the various screwdrivers and hex keys needed to change the feet and make basic adjustments.

I put much bigger soft casters on the base. The ones that came with it were tiny and useless for carpet. Unfortunately they were plate mount not post mount so there are some ugly nuts on the top of the base, but I can live with that. I moved the foot pedals as well so that there's more separation between the foot lift pedal and the 'go' pedal.

The next plan is to make a better flat top for it. The ones that come with 441 clones are completely stupid in the way they attach to the table.

Hi, that looks better, I see these A...wifes saves money where they do not think we will see it. Its a Cowboy machine direct from China?

Although my 441 stand is different from yours (French sold), my foot pedals sits to close together too. And I have a Efka, it takes a full rotation every time I touch the pedal. I turn the machine off before I remove the work piece, just to be sure not have a extra stitch in it. I have a project in rebuilding the foot lift to a air lift, it stalled because I got the wrong air cylinder (wrong stroke length). I like the knee lift system much better than the foot operated, then you do not have to move your foot (take your eyes away from what you working on) I think I will install a knee air switch (progressive one). An other thing I do not like with the 441 machines, is where the hand lever for the foot lift is placed. That space are used for much other items like drop down guide, sewing material etc. Should be on top front like on DA machines. I turned mine 180 deg. to fit a drop down guide, but the mechanism has no return spring and sometimes falls down when I use the foot pedal. A bad design!

What will you do to the flat table attachment? I wondered about buying one.... perhaps not?

Tor

[Uwe]

I've been meaning to post pictures of my latest sewing table project to contribute to this nice collection of table ideas. I finally got around to making a CNC template for carving out a tabletop for my Consew 225. The legs came from a local University surplus store for $20 (same legs as a previous poster, haha). The wood is marine plywood and ran $45 for this project. The ShopBot CNC router machine is at my local TechShop playground for adults. The two plywood plates are glued, then screwed together, for a total thickness of 1.4 inches - just the right amount of overkill.

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

I bought a solid industrial sewing top for 65 bucks...then 2 used H legs for $50.....couple of screws and 15 minutes of cutting a hole....did I do well??????

No! 1st you have to beat yourself senseless with chains, kick the cat, pull your hair out, then run a triathlon. If your not doing things the hard way, your not doing it right!

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

This is a common problem when people add caster wheels to either a home made unit or when adding castors to standard K legs that come with sewing machines; the bottom front brace or bar becomes raised too high, where the treadle is now floating six inches off of the floor. Provisions should be made to lower the lower bar.

[thesergeant]

Great table setup UWE!! Beyond jealous of that CNC.

Ya, Gregg, you're absolutely right about the treadle being raised with the addition of wheels. I was going to do this but never got around to it. Basically I was going to take take two pieces of walnut 1.25" x 1.25" x 3" (or whatever length is necessary to lower the treadle), then just drill out a .75" hole near the end of each piece for the treadle tube to go through. Drill and tap each 3/4" hole for a 'set screw" and then just bolt the spacer block to the frame and then then slide the tube in. Maybe I'll do that today and take some photos. I've grown accustomed to using it as is though.

Also, if you have a K-leg table you can add casters to it without adding any height to the treadle. A friend of mine has 50+ industrials and has been experimenting with different ways of putting these machines on casters. I think this is proabably the best and cleanest execution I've ever seen. He basically cuts away the the feet of the k-leg and then cuts channels into the legs for a piece of hardwood (he's also used steel). The piece of wood then slides cleanly into the channel and it is bolted in place. The treadle is then lowered with a spacer block. Then just lower the table top as necessary.

This is a common problem when people add caster wheels to either a home made unit or when adding castors to standard K legs that come with sewing machines; the bottom front brace or bar becomes raised too high, where the treadle is now floating six inches off of the floor. Provisions should be made to lower the lower bar.

[carlosbruno]

No! 1st you have to beat yourself senseless with chains, kick the cat, pull your hair out, then run a triathlon. If your not doing things the hard way, your not doing it right!

Hahahahahaahahaha ... can't ... stop ... laughing !!!

[Uwe]

Just a little update on my sewing table project. I've installed my Consew 225 in it with a new Consew CSM1000 servo motor I got on eBay. I've been meaning to try a motor that has three separate parts - the motor, the controller, and the speed input. This allows putting the speed input on a movable pedal assembly with a wire connection instead of having it attached to the table directly with a fixed rod connection. It worked out quite nicely. All that's missing now is drip tray , a knee lift mechanism, and a bobbin winder.

[cdthayer]

The previous owner of my Consew 225 power stand used brackets to make the stand mobile, but only raised the stand less than an inch. I don’t know where the brackets were sourced.

CD in Oklahoma

[Uwe]

Looking the last post had a few synapses firing and I realised I had these moving dolly wheels I got a Harbor Freight Tool for $3.99 which would work nicely on my latest table. Twenty minutes later my table was mobile The height change is minimal, if any, from the previous round metal feet pads. I'm not sure the wheels earn me any style points, but it'll surely be easier on my back when I need to move the machine.

[carlosbruno]

Ok Uwe but ... how do you keep the machine "quiet" in a spot during the work?