My First Real Rolled Edge Wallet...

[Leather by LOU]

So a couple things happend during the construction of this wallet that I thought I might ask for help. Its my first real rolled edge wallet and Im really happy with how it came out but it could be better. Im hoping the links above worked to show you detailed photos of the wallet on my photobucket page. I will post my questions below...

1. Does anyone provide Skiving as a service or know where I can shop and buy a mechanical skiver in the Portland, OR area? (I wrecked 4 pieces of veg tanned to get the one that worked with a safety skiver)

2. If I wanted my top-stitch on the outside of the wallet I cant see what I'm sewing... so? I prefer the look of the top stitch on the outside so I don't get those "blowout punctures".

3. In this pic it shows the "bridge" of the wallet. I like the way it encourages the bend in the wallet but I am curious if it should be sewn or just rolled like I did.

Please let me know what you think good and bad. Please be strict. I want to make them better in every way.

[Leather by LOU]

either this forum is pretty dead for input and resource or I posted incorrectly... my apologies if I did. Please let me know if there is a better place to get answers..

[Ferg]

You are more impatient than I. LOL

If you truly want a "mechanical" I assume motorized, you will need to spend around $2000. The "crank" skivers are $900 to $1500.

The motorized is the only way to go for my money.

No need to sew from the inside. If you applied the roll correctly there is no need to see it as you stitch. Use a guide, roller or straight.

Your bridge in the wallet is fine.

You need to use leather between 1 and 1.5oz. for you lining. Any cut edges that are exposed should either be skived and rolled or burnished.

It appears to me that you didn't place the "Bill" lining all the way to the edge of your billfold back. The roll at those end junctures look pretty bad with extended width. Also makes the end of the wallet "bunch-up".

If you are going to make wallets to sell any quantity of, you need a skiver such as Cobra has.

I have a number of hand skivers, they are primarily used to touch up corners etc.

ferg

[Leather by LOU]

hahaha sorry! i guess other forums I'm in are more active. Didn't mean to offend anyone.

Thanks so much for your input. I placed and glued the satin liner all the way to the edge then rolled the leather over to the interior. I used 6 oz veg tanned for the exterior layer because I wanted to tool deep. My manual skiving seems to be very trying. matter of fact I hate it! hahaha which is why i'm looking for a motorized skiver like a cobra or fortuna.

I also have trouble buggering up the thread at my starts and stops. I definitely need to work on my corners... (noted)

When you said to use 1-1.5 oz for the lining were you referring to where i used the pig skin for the pockets or where I used the satin for the bill lining? The Green leather I used is about that maybe 2 oz... The pig skin is really thin and easy to work with and sew.

Thanks again 50Years!

I am a product of the technology age and leather is a tough nut to crack for online resources. I am used to pretty instant feedback and maybe just need to relax a little. But you know how it goes, when your thinking about something it doesn't stop till you find what your looking for

[Leather by LOU]

ok... i re read your message and I think I understand what you mean about the Bill liner not going all the way to the top of the wallet. I battled with that in my pattern design regarding construction. I left it low so I could stitch the top outside rolled portion. I felt that if I brought the bill liner all the way to the top I wouldn't be able to stitch from end to end from the inside. But what your saying about not needing to see the inside roll makes sense (its there). But how do I sew inbetween the 2 layers and still get all the way to the edge?

[Ferg]

No, I wasn't referring to the upper part of the bill liner. Your leather bill liner is fine in height it is the left and right edges I spoke of.

I personally think use of some cloth materials for lining the "bill" pocket is classy if the correct colors and pattern in the cloth are used.

Now, you are confusing me. What do you mean by sewing the different layers? When you do the roll, all layers of the wallet, including inside pockets, are covered by the roll thus you sew through everything at the same time.

Leather folks are a breed all their own. You will find that if you hang around very long but.....you will never find a place with more knowledge of an art form or the many folks that will offer some of their best secrets.

ferg

[David8386]

Welcome to forum Lou, sometimes it takes a while for a response and sometimes it is fast it just depends on who is online. Ferg is right tho lots of knowledge here. I see the different width on the inside edges like Ferg said but all in all it is a good looking project. Good photography presentation also.

David

[Leather by LOU]

Thanks Guys. I truly appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I look forward to lots of good reading ahead. I have been amazed with content I've found already in this community. I'm learning 10 fold just from seeing quality leather work.

I look forward to utilizing your critiques in my next project. I need to make a few pattern adjustments before I try again but I'm excited to make another one of these for sure. This was a commissioned gift for 3rd Wedding Anniversary (traditionally a leather gift) for some dear friends. The customer was very excited, as was I with her response.

[shtoink]

I'm not sure if it's the time of the year or if it's a shift towards a different medium for sharing information and pictures, but you are right that it is a bit slow as of late. I think that some of the people in here are "seasonal regulars" and tend to be in here more when the weather outside isn't as pleasant. I know that I find it very difficult to keep my mind on my concentration on my schoolwork when the sun is shining and my kids are enjoying their summer break.

I wish I had enough skills to offer up anything other than an opinion on the wallet.

I would think that long term usage would cause that small bit along the "bridge" at the bottom to come unrolled, so stitching it would probably be the best route. I have worn out plenty of wallets, and that area is one of the first to come unglued and start tearing away. Mind you, these were commercially made, mass production style and not a custom, hand made ones like you'd see in here.

[WScott]

It is a great wallet, like the deadhead detail on the front. To me it looks very professionally made.

I hear you about hand skiving, truly a pain and destroyer of leather.

There are some really fine craftsman on here and many busy folk so be patiently persistent and you will get feedback; it is especially slow in the summer months. Lots of old threads to read and galleries to peruse.

Welcome to the site