Twisted B Report post Posted July 31, 2013 I am new to leather work. I want to try and make horse halters (bronc and bling). Do you recommend using a chisel to create the holes for stitching or an awl? Then, what size/spacing is advised? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverwingit Report post Posted August 5, 2013 Hmm, Twisted. Simple question, but nobody's chiming in here. I'll give it a shot. If you intend to do traditional British-style stitching, and since you mention chisel I assume you may, you'll need both a pricking iron or chisel and an awl. You don't generally puncture the leather all the way with a pricking iron. It establishes the hole spacing and angle and you finish the hole with a saddler's awl. You might also be referring to a Japanese-style stitching chisel. In that case, you can fully puncture the leather and won't need an awl. Others might chime in if you can be a little more detailed with your question. Michelle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
St8LineGunsmith Report post Posted August 6, 2013 my method for stitching is to first lay out the stitch line then groove the line then use an overstitch wheel to mark the stitching holes then I use a small to medium stitching awl blade to make the holes if I am lacing I use chisels. see nigel armitage videos on stitching Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt S Report post Posted August 6, 2013 (edited) Chisels are for wood. Pricking irons are for leather, then an awl when stitching -- this not only cuts the bit of the hole which may not have been cut by the awl and also temporarily reopens the hole (which will have closed up). Edited August 6, 2013 by Matt S Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mijo Report post Posted August 6, 2013 Chisels are for wood. Pricking irons are for leather, then an awl when stitching -- this not only cuts the bit of the hole which may not have been cut by the awl and also temporarily reopens the hole (which will have closed up). Osborne refers to their pricking irons as chisels. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Twisted B Report post Posted August 10, 2013 Chisels are for wood. Pricking irons are for leather, then an awl when stitching -- this not only cuts the bit of the hole which may not have been cut by the awl and also temporarily reopens the hole (which will have closed up). I originally thought I was supposed to create a groove, use an overstitch wheel, then use an awl to punch holes. When I went to my local Tandy store the sales person recommended a diamond CHISEL (I also thought chisels were for wood). They punch all the way through the leather, supposedly making the overstitch wheel and awl unnessesary. So, my question was asked to get the opinions of others on what they use. I have not purchased a single leather tool yet, I don't have the budget to buy unnecessary tools. I want to make the right purchase the first time I have included links to various chisels http://www.csosborne.com/chisels_1.htm http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/site-search-results.aspx?sectionpath=3&processor=content&p_keyword=Diamond+chisel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted August 10, 2013 The overstitch wheels you see are quite handy, but will not cover every application. Perhaps the most OBvious question to answer your question ... what will you stitch? I got comfortable with an awl early on. Seen it in a book, and looked like it made sense. Later I saw some 'chisels', and some 'irons', and some 'punches', none of which looked like they would be worth beans for stitchin' 45° miter corners ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted August 10, 2013 I originally thought I was supposed to create a groove, use an overstitch wheel, then use an awl to punch holes. When I went to my local Tandy store the sales person recommended a diamond CHISEL (I also thought chisels were for wood). They punch all the way through the leather, supposedly making the overstitch wheel and awl unnessesary. So, my question was asked to get the opinions of others on what they use. I have not purchased a single leather tool yet, I don't have the budget to buy unnecessary tools. I want to make the right purchase the first time I have included links to various chisels Hand sewing has more opinions/controversy than any other area of leatherwork. To start out, the best avenue is likely what you are talking about. Personally, I do not grove because I do not like the look and it was also recently pointed out that you are weakening the leather when you do it. The waxed thread Tandy sells is grossly over waxed. Scrape off as much as you can if you are going to use it. The braided thread is decent to use. Just my opinion. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FlHobbyist Report post Posted August 11, 2013 I originally thought I was supposed to create a groove, use an overstitch wheel, then use an awl to punch holes. When I went to my local Tandy store the sales person recommended a diamond CHISEL (I also thought chisels were for wood). They punch all the way through the leather, supposedly making the overstitch wheel and awl unnessesary. So, my question was asked to get the opinions of others on what they use. I have not purchased a single leather tool yet, I don't have the budget to buy unnecessary tools. I want to make the right purchase the first time �� I have included links to various chisels http://www.csosborne.com/chisels_1.htm http://www.tandyleat...=Diamond chisel I'll prefix with I am still learning, and all of this is very subjective, but here is what I do and like. I like the diamond chisels that Tandy sells. They punch though 3/4 leather easily. I couldn't tell you if the work well on thicker leather or not. Originally, I would chisel pieces of leather that I wanted to stitch together, now though I only chisel 1 piece of leather, and then use an awl to punch the holes in the second piece. Because of the thin leather I work with, it has a bad tendency to stretch a lot when I tool it (even when rubber cemented while tooling). To me it is much easier, than trying to be exact with the second piece of leather. To summarize my method, which works for me now, but may change on a moments notice:1) Cut out leather 2) Groove both pieces 3) Tool, dye, paint, etc 4) Chisel one of the pieces 5) Use awl to punch holes and sew pieces together 6) Burnish edges One note, The awl I use is from Barry King, with a Douglas blade. I wouldn't use a cheap awl from Tandy to attempt this. If there is anything else you want to know, or if anyone wants to give me some advice, I'd be pleased to hear it. I've only been doing leather craft for 3 months now, and there is an avalanche of data that can be overwhelming. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
St8LineGunsmith Report post Posted August 13, 2013 Hand sewing has more opinions/controversy than any other area of leatherwork. To start out, the best avenue is likely what you are talking about. Personally, I do not grove because I do not like the look and it was also recently pointed out that you are weakening the leather when you do it. The waxed thread Tandy sells is grossly over waxed. Scrape off as much as you can if you are going to use it. The braided thread is decent to use. Just my opinion. I totally agree there are several methods to making stitching holes in leather my most used stitching tools are wing dividers an overstitch wheel a groover( when I use a groove) small harness needles and thread and sinews. I also use a drill press with a round awl blade for punching holsters and scabbards with with thick welts but I will also use a dimond awl blade to make the 45 degree diamond hole for uniformity of the stitching more than anything. It really depends on the thickness of leather you are stitching together whether you should choose to or not to make a stitching groove. you certainly would not want to make a groove in a billfold because the groove would likely nearly cut all the way through the leather making stitch grooves is more appropriate for thick leathers like 8 oz and on up for items like holsters knife sheathes and saddlery and tack, ect. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites