What Type Of Leather?

[HCRider]

Hello,

So I just received my basic saddle bag pattern pack from Springfield Leather. It says to use 4-5oz leather for the gussets and 6-7oz for the main leather.

I have designed a nice laptop bag using two gussets and wanted to modify it into a saddle bag with this pattern. I made one side and it turned out too stiff using my Herrmann Oak and it will not lay right on the saddle/horse in my opinion.

So, what type of leather is best for saddle bags? Regular veg tan or a more soft type of leather?

I appreciate your comments. Thanks.

[dirtclod]

I all way's use skirting leather at least 8/9 ounce with 4/5 ounce for the gussets. You can put a loop on the edge towards the bottom of the bag and run the flank billet through that to help hold them down to the side. The other thing might be their to short across the back and that may be why their not laying down.

[HCRider]

Thank you. Wow skirting leather is stiff so I guess the HO leather I have should be fine. I have never really seen anyone using saddlebags made out of tooling leather. They always have soft oil tanned type leathers so I wasn't sure if I was wrong in my leather selection. I won't know if I don't try and put my stuff out there. Thanks again....

[Goldshot Ron]

After reading this post, I feel that there is a little confusion in regards to the type of leathers that can be used. Tooling leather and skirting leather are tanned the same. So as mentioned, you can use 8/9 oz. veg tanned leather for you bag flaps, fronts, and backs. Some people will used 6/7 or 7/8 once chap leather for the gussets. Chap leather is chrome tanned, and most of the time is more flexible than veg tanned leather. Some people even make the entire bag out of chap leather. You can also use latigo leather for gussets, 6/7 oz.

If you are going to decorate the flaps or fronts with tooling, then you'll have to used veg tanned leather (skirting leather or tooling leather). However, your first post sounds like you want soft, flexible saddle bags. If I am correct, then you'll need to consider buying chrome tanned leather. I hope that I'm not confusing your original post, and, if I've muddied up the post, please comment.

Ron

[HCRider]

Thanks Ron, Your comments definitely helped. The pattern pack I received just stated to use 6-7 oz leather with 4-5 oz gussets. It didn't really specify the type. I modified the pattern slightly to make a shoulder bag rather than potentially waste a lot of leather on a saddle bag project. It turned out very stiff which for a shoulder bag is fine but not something I would want for a saddle bag. I was thinking about using milled veg tan for the saddle bags so I can use my design and have a softer leather. There are soooo many possibilities in leather work and I look forward to learning.

[NVLeatherWorx]

If you use your regular inventory of veg-tanned leather you can still get it to lay down by just oiling it up until it has the pliability and flexibility that you are looking for. Being as you are looking to make saddle bags this is a standard necessity anyway as they are going to be exposed to the elements. The other leathers (non veg-tanned) aren't really good about accepting oils as the fiber structure is a bit different as a result of the process. When oiling, oil both sides and let it soak in for at least 24 hours. Check the feel and flex, if it needs more, repeat the process. Saddles get heavily oiled so why shouldn't the saddle bags?

[oltoot]

Having made and used saddlebags for many years I have arrived at the following:

1) For the back of the bag (next to the horse) skirting or other vegtan of ~ 10 oz or more for body and stability,

2) For top vegtan of ~ 8

3) For flap vegtan of 7-8

4) For gussets, usually chap leather, oil tan if appropriate, sometimes light latigo, and when made with a custom saddle to match the padded seat if one is included, of no more than 6 and something I have been doing to all my gussets for ~ 30 yrs is to fold them in half lengthwise, flesh to flesh, and sew a seam very close to the edge of the fold and then install them, this helps encourage them to lay flat when not expanded by contents. Another gusset trick i use frequently is to put a grommet at the top of each side so a string or lace can be used to cinch the gussets in so that rain or sticks wont get caught or invade the bags.

And, of course, depending on size of bags and form of skirts a variety of hold down strategies.

PS. the favorite size in my experience has been 9 X 9 X 4

[Goldshot Ron]

Toot,

Could you post a photo of your gussets? The seam on the gussets sounds like a good idea. I usually sew the front gusset with an inward seam, then the back of the gusset with a flat outward seam. However, when sewing both seams the same, it is hard to get the gusset to lay correctly.

Thanks, Ron

[MojoGeorge]

oltoot,

I would really appreciate a photo of your gussets as well as the tie downs, I am making my daughters Christmas bags and need all the visual aids I can find

thanx

Geo

[oltoot]

I'll try:

1) is actually two pieces as you can see the gussets were light weight latigo. You can't see the grommet and string as they are tucked back under the flap. BTW, this pic is ~ 33 years old and these bags are still in regular use.

2) & 3) are of bags that will open up to 6" if necessary. They are of 5 oz chap leather with two seams for folding flat. Rather than grommet and string at top these have a 1/2" strap around the top that is kept in place by tunnel loops.

[oltoot]

PS: #s 2 & 3 are from my personal saddle that has been in use for ~ 15 years

[Goldshot Ron]

Your bags are unique. I think they show that some thought went into their design, and appear very functional. The gussets have worn quite well with this design. Thanks for sharing your work.

Ron