Jump to content
Matt T

Skiving Machine Sharpening

Recommended Posts

I just got my skiving machine, a consew dcs-s4, and I notice that if it's not sharpened frequently, the blade will pull the leather and mutilate my piece.

My questions for those experienced with this type of machine:

1) How often do you find yourself sharpening?

2) How long do you grind the blade for?

3) How hard do you press the grinder into the blade? Sparks fly all over the place when I do it - is this too hard?

I also use the sharpening rod on the inside of the wheel when I sharpen, in order to reduce burrs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Matt;

I don't have skiving machine but I am familiar with planer blades and usually all they require is honing.

The only time they would possibly require grinding is if they got nicked.

If you don't get a response I would suggest you contact the manufacturer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sometimes blades are sharpened incorrectly and the temper at the edge is lost. This will cause the blade to get dull quickly. Usually if the blade is sharpened correctly a few times this problem goes away. -- Tex

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, the grinder is built into the machine for this purpose. I am not sure how I would go about honing it, or that it is necessary for this type of machine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The problem with any kind of sharpening is the burr that's created and the blade must be removed in order to hone the back side as well as the front.

I wouldn't trust any grinding apparatus on a blade that must be sharp.

Grinding is for axes and cold chisels.

I would be looking at a way to remove the blade/blades and get them to someone that knows how to sharpen and not just somebody in the sharpening business.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, the grinder is built into the machine for this purpose. I am not sure how I would go about honing it, or that it is necessary for this type of machine.

Do a search here. I recall seeing a post about sharpening bell skivers. After the initial sharpening, there is a stick used to take the burr off. The post was probably within the past 3 months.

Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I understand that a lot of leather workers already know this, but for those newcomers that don't here goes. In pocket/hunting knife sharpening the edge burr is is usually called a wire. If the sharpening is done fine enough stropping on leather will bend this wire back and forth and break it off leaving the sharp durable edge. A little rubbing compound on the the leather strop will also polish the edge as you strop it. -- Tex

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it's absolutely necessary to hone any tool used for cutting or skiving leather for the best results.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your skiving machine was set at the factory for correct angle etc. You only need to touch the grinding wheel to the bell knife slightly after normal use. I seldom grind for more than 2 or 3 seconds. Take care with the hone to get rid of the burrs. Soft touch for sure.

With Chrome tanned leather you should sharpen slightly after every major skiving job. Veg tanned is a little different. Slow your feed speed down if you can, knife turns at high speed. Skiving on the machines takes practice. Read everything you can find about using them. I posted some info on using them some time back. Probably search for Skiving or Skiving Machine.

ferg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a small Cowboy skiver that has a blade very similar to the paper cutters in commercial print shops. There's a company in the area that sharpens all these blades for the printing industry. When my blade needs sharpening, I plan to send it off to them.

Anyone familiar with these paper cutters, these blades are shaving sharp even when declared "dull".

I can free-hand sharpen a pocket knife, but I believe these type of blades need to be precision sharpened in order to work to their optimum.

Edited by Rayban

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

You might find this manual to be of a lot of help operating, and maintaining your skiver

http://www.ou.edu/ao...r Model 10A.pdf

On pages 5 & 6, it tells how to sharpen:

simutaneously apply the honing stone/rod and the grinding wheel at the same time

and be sure to release them both at the same time

Also, here is a skiving machine trouble shooting chart

should be helpful to all!

SkiverTroubleshooting.jpeg

Edited by Lil Doodler

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You may or may not have read my previous posts on the Skiving machines.

Search: "skiving machines-ferg"

ferg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the same issue - I have one of these skiving machines too, had it for a year or so. After a few practice skives on chrome tanned (which did fine) it started 'pulling and mangleing' the leather. I tried the built in sharpening stone - lots of sparks but still not sharp enough to run the leather thru. I now have a bell knife with a very light coating of rust. We need a bell knife sharpening video - anyone ?

Doug C

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe some folks think you have to grind heck out of the bell knife to sharpen it. You only need a slight grinding as in, touch the stone to the grinder for about 2 or 3 seconds, unless the edge is pitted or in bad shape altogether. I know it is recommended to use the "rod" to get the burrs off the knife at same time you are grinding. I do not do that. If for no other reason it is very unhandy. Carefully use the rod as near straight with the sides of the bell. You only need to touch the rod slightly to the bell knife.

I have never tried to hone or embellish the grind. I simply have never had to. After skiving any Chrome Tanned leather for a project I touch the bell knife with the grinder and rod. With Veg Tanned I may do the same because it is easier to remember to just do a "touch up" after each session.

Distance from and angle of the drive wheel from the knife is one of the most important things when adjusting any of the Skiving Machines.

There is a learning curve to this machine. If you do not wish to put forth the effort to learn how to use them, please do not complain about how you cannot use them. Machines setting idle until they rust is no good.

ferg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for those tips Ferg, it will be helpful I'm sure.

As far as complaining goes - don't look at me. I purchased this machine when I had the extra money to do so (a rare moment).. knowing I would not need it for quite some time. It has been sitting idle in my garage/studio - but not out of frustration. I just haven't gotten to the point of NEEDING it yet (collecting tools and trying to perfecting my craft in general). Learning it has been on my list of things to do. Your advice makes it seem all the more possible - again, thanks.

But with that said: Someone shoot a good bell knife sharpening video - pleeeaasse ! ;^)

Doug C

(wanting a professional Clicker machine, but not needing it yet)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is is as far as the bell knife can go to make it in right angle to grind it. Sort of short . I may need to sand in a new angle for the knife . In case I screw up, is it easy to change a bell knife ?

Hope I would be able to finally sharpen this knife.

IMG 0924

bell  knife

bell knife

Edited by tribo korokan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Been working on skiving e 2-3 oz vegs leather and happy so far.Big change since I move the bell knife closer to the presser feet and sharpening the bell knife. I am on 80% of what I expect on the skiving machine. A lot better than not using it. I am more confidence that it will not mess up the thin leather and eat up my work. Now I can make some folded leather wallet without tiring my arm skiving . Those handheld skiving knife only last for one side of the leather and starts to get dull quick. I need more practice on the machine, that I know. So far , I am happy with the result. I appreciate so much all the advice you give. I am planning to make at least 30+wallet and gonna be too tiring with out the machine.Have a nice day everybody.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are my progress after taking advice from this forum:

IMG 0926

IMG 0925

Sweet!!!! You guys are the greatest. I also adjust the servo machine to run slower so I can control the cutting. Very satisfied.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...