Questions About Design And Balance...

[camano ridge]

Cave, I think you are on the right track now. Get some manila file folders many people use them for drawing patterns. I also use them to make file folder versions of my holsters. Instead of stitches I use a stpler on the file folder cutout to seal my seams I then put the gun in the paper holster. You can make a couple of versions with the belt slots in different locations. You will actually get a feel for the balance of the holster and be able to make adjustments. There are peolple that frequent this forum that only do flat back holsters, there is nothing wrong with that. Which ever way you do it the importatnt thing is a tight stitch line. If properly molded (does not have to be extreme detail molding to be properly molded) and a good tight stitch line you should not have a problem with your holster loosening up.

I know you said you were working on burnishing the edges. You may have already figured this out after the first one. Burnish the edges of the holster mouth and toe before assembling then once it is stitched burnish the main seams.

As to the belt one cheaper and easier way to try out a good belt is Old Faithful Holsters. They have a belt kit double stitched (stitching already done) comes with hardware including a roller belt buckle. You dye it and put on the hardware. cost is about 39.00 for the kit. If you go to Tandy a single layer belt strip without nuckle is almost 20.00.

[CAVE]

You can make a couple of versions with the belt slots in different locations. You will actually get a feel for the balance of the holster and be able to make adjustments...

Burnish the edges of the holster mouth and toe before assembling then once it is stitched burnish the main seams...

Old Faithful Holsters... cost is about 39.00 for the kit...

Awesome, thanks so much. I don't know why I didn't think of the mock up cardboard holster idea. I like this!

Burnishing, yep, I forgot that step and had a heck of a time burnishing those spots.

Keep it coming if anyone has some good info for me. I'm still reading and searching, but this is really helping.

[Dwight]

For the new belt loop postition, I'm leaning towards about 1/2-3/4" higher. Does this seem like enough?

The ideal placement for maximum stability is low, . . . just enough opening between the belt top and the grip front to get your fingers to get a really good hold onto the grip of the weapon. And when you cut your belt slots, . . . do not be generous. They need to fit the belt with no real sloppiness, . . . loosen enough to slide on, . . . but tight enough not to move afterwards.

From some reading, retention straps seem to be a personal preference. I like the idea of no strap/snap, but would like to hear more ideas. What happends to this style of holster over the long haul? Will it loosen up quite bit to where it may be needed?

I counsel against retention if it is an IWB, . . . belt and body pressure should make it so it won't cough up and out, . . . along with proper molding.

For a pancake, . . . sometimes (some LEO depts mandate them) they are needed, . . . if I put one on, . . . 99% of them are thumb breaks.

I did all the forming on the front piece, and the back leather is just flat. It that ok? Is some forming of the rear piece important? It seems more comfortable flat than a friends that has some forming of the back piece.

A pancake properly molded will not be uncomfortable when worn as an OWB, . . . all my IWB pancakes and the vast majority of my other IWB holsters have a flat back as a comfort aid.

I probably won't be building a belt any time soon, but I am looking into some before the next holster build.

Not having a proper belt, . . . it's like trying to figure out what these new style tires will look like on my car, . . . without first having rims to fit them. Take a time out and build a basic belt, . . . glue two 7 oz pieces together, . . . punch some holes, . . . put on a buckle, . . . dye and finish it, . . . even if you don't sew it (following katsass directions for proper Weldwood application) you'll have something that will give you a real good idea of where you really need to go with the holster.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited November 12, 2013 by Dwight

[camano ridge]

Cave here are a couple of examples of my mock holsters and the finished product. It helps me especially when I am making my own pattern for a hoster style I have not made before. Almost always the final holster comes out a little diferent then the mock up because I find things to adjust and refine. It only take about a half hour to build a mock up and can save hours on a holster you may end up throwing in the scrap box.

[camano ridge]

Cave here are a couple of examples of my mock holsters and the finished product. It helps me especially when I am making my own pattern for a hoster style I have not made before. Almost always the final holster comes out a little diferent then the mock up because I find things to adjust and refine. making a mock up helps me adjust belt slots, fit, overall appearance before I make those mistakes in leather. I keep a pice of belt strap around that I can slide through the belt slots to give me an idea of fit and cant. It only take about a half hour to build a mock up and can save hours on a holster you may end up throwing in the scrap box.

Edited November 12, 2013 by camano ridge

[bugboy449]

Cave, I'm new at this also and what I do sometimes is draw my belt on the pattern paper and then mess with the gun to find the center of gravity of the gun. I like the balance point of the gun to be somewhere on the belt line. It can be at the top of the belt line but I usually shoot for the middle.

[Red Cent]

I would suggest the belt never goes below the trigger guard's lowest horizontal line.

[Jumpout]

I agree with Red Cent. The rear slot on your holster is too low. Find the balance point of the pistol you are working with. It will be different without the loaded magazine in the gun. Be extremely cautious and ensure there is not a round in the chamber then find your balance. Because you have that extra weight in the grip of the pistol when you put the belt loop as low as you did on that holster, probably 80% of the weight of the gun is above the belt line and it will definitely flop. Like Kat said, the holster can only do so much for concealed carry with the primary goal being a secure rig and fast access to the weapon when needed. You have to dress around your method of carry.

[malabar]

You can certainly make high-ride holsters -- most of mine ride a good 3/4-1-inch higher than the average pancake -- but you must design the holster so that t has the structural strength to ride up there without "bouncing." For example, the back on my high-ride pancake holster is laminated out of two layers of (fairly thick) leather. That gives the holster the stiffness it needs to ride high, like this...

http://www.malabargunleather.com/holsters/high-ride

BTW: It sure looks like you have a lot of forward cant on the pistol. That's kind of counterproductive for the vertical draw technique that is taught at most places today.

tk

[CAVE]

Again thank you for the comments. I did some balance testing with a few guns. 40 cal bullets obviously made a much bigger difference than the 22, but having the clip in and full did change it up for both guns. High cap mags vs standard were surprisingly much different too. I am really enjoying this process and all the practical advice is helping a lot. I hope to start the improved sr22 holster in the next few days. Hopefully I can also improve on the craftsmanship a little.

Is there a relation to belt position (vertically) and ease of drawing the weapon? I don't mean me being able to reach, grip, and draw. I mean how the belt acts on the holster and how the holster acts on the gun. How does the leather surrounding the gun stretch, collapse, or move during drawing the weapon and can this be affected by belt position or cant? Does leather thickness play a big role in this? Is this even something you can explain over the internet without trail and error?