Help! Black Dye Coming Off After Finish

[TomG]

I use the 50/50 resolene and if the surface is flat, I use a scrap of tee shirt folded about 3-4 layers thick. Dab the Resolene and do a light swipe on the newsprint that I keep under my work to take off any excess. Then wipe on the leather lightly.

Like Cyber - multiple coats with at least 2 hours between.

But Fiebings, Black Oil Dye is the way to go. Very little bleed .

[FirstNick]

Thanks for all the great answers! I now use resolene 50/50 and its a great help.

I have heard great things about the feibing's oil dye, but I can't get here in Denmark. But I will try some new waterbased dye my supplier just got.

Again, thanks!

[MonicaJacobson]

I have a similar question to Nick - I was about to make a bag and dye it black, and use aussie leather conditioner to seal it. Is that the worst idea in the whole world? The customer wants it to be "soft", so I'm wary of using resolene, but I don't want any dye bleeding off later.

[DavidL]

from what I read Aussie isn't as much as a sealer as resolene. Resolene seals the dye, as it acts as a top coat creating an invisible barrier. Aussie just moisturizes the leather and gives it a bit of protection.

I have aussie conditioner and would use it on top of atom wax, but I am unsure if it stays ontop of the atom wax or rubs off. The end result is that the leather is very soft. The same could be tried on dyed leather with resolene + aussie (or beeswax with petroleum jelly)

The issue I also have is it takes 10 minutes of constant rubbing to get rid of all that excess dye. Drying the oil dyed leather under a lamp or a heat gun on low could remove the excess dye first then can be rubbed off easier I would think to avoid bleed off.

Edited September 13, 2014 by DavidL

[MonicaJacobson]

Yes... the question is, if resolene seals the leather, would putting aussie on top of that do anything at all? It might just float on top of the resolene and be a pointless addition.

[Jbelknap]

On 11/13/2013 at 2:48 PM, Hennessy said:

i've told this procedure several times and never had any one come back with a grateful thank you !kinda makes me think,they think i'm pullin their leg.] believe me this works every time !.wash [acid] your finished work,then a good coat of lacquer or a acrylic shine then apply yer black oil or alc base dye onto work /// no residue at all.i've done this with all colors in oil dye but black allways cursed me ''no more '' get a piece of scrap leather n see fer yerself it works and it made my life better eh !

Can you go over this with me so I understand it…. 1. You wash the finished item… you say (acid) what do you mean by that? Like acid? Like muratic or sulfuric? 2. You put a good coat of  shine on it either acrylic or lacquer shine. 3.Now you dye your leather. Am I getting that right? I’m confused by the acid 

[Northmount]

16 hours ago, Jbelknap said:

Can you go over this with me so I understand it…. 1. You wash the finished item… you say (acid) what do you mean by that? Like acid? Like muratic or sulfuric? 2. You put a good coat of  shine on it either acrylic or lacquer shine. 3.Now you dye your leather. Am I getting that right? I’m confused by the acid 

You realize this thread is 10 years old?

Moved this thread to Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.

He is likely using oxalic acid.  Mix about 1 teaspoon to a pint of water.  It's very mild, like the strength of lemon juice.  Dealing with leather here, not soldering metals.