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How Should I Sharpen An Oblong Punch

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I recently picked up a 1" oblong hole punch by craftool. The first time I tried it things went poorly, I hammered that thing forever and all I ended up with was an imprint of the tool on my leather. I've seen videos of people using the exact same tool and it seemed to cut through leather like butter. I used it on my strop thinking it would make life easier but I ended up with the same results. Should I try using a grinder to sharpen it up or keep on with the strop? I just don't want to ruin it cause it wasn't exactly cheap.

I've used craftool strap end punches, round hole punches, and pricking irons in the past, they all worked fine, the strap end punch I used on a strop and it worked perfectly afterwards.

Any help for a newbie would be much appreciated.

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Here is a you tube video using a stone. The oblong punch starts about 3:01 on the video. Also do a search on these forums for sharpening leather oblong punch there are a couple of threads.

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Much appreciated. I tried searching through the forum cause I figured I wasn't the first to have this problem but got kinda frustrated reading through off topic results.

Thanks a bunch!

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Here are a couple of threads the first one discusses some sharpening. The second one discusses sharpening and has the same video attached but also discusses proper hammer and backing for using the punch..

http://leatherworker... +oblong +punch

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=36751&hl=+how%20+sharpen%20+oblong%20+punch#entry227265

Edited by camano ridge

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That's interesting.... I had purchased the Tandy "economy" punch in 1" a number of years ago.. mainly because I needed it now and they were out of the "Pro" model. It was twice as sharp as the $40 version of my 5/8" punch.

I dropped that economy punch and severely chipped the end so decided to buy the "Pro" model today.

I almost broke my wrist when I hit it into a 10oz strap with a 3.5 lb maul. I gave it 2 quick, hard whacks and the damn thing actually bounced off the leather!

I thought it was just me, but looks like it might be the product line.

That sucks!

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My advice is when ever you buy something from Tandy that needs to be sharp plan on sharpening before using.

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My advice is when ever you buy something from Tandy that needs to be sharp plan on sharpening before using.

Unfortunately I think most of the new punches need sharpening, even the Osborne stuff I've gotten has been pretty poor edge wise even the mini punch, K157 I think, some had flat cutting edges. I have gotten a few awesome ones from Beiler's marked BHT, bright polished and sharp,but I also got a dud marked O'brien. Bruce Johnson would be a good source for a ready to go tool though.

Sending them out dull must cut the costs.....

Edited by J Hayes

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Help.

Same here, yesterday, I got the Osborne 1" oblong will not punch through . Went out got 45oz dead low Polly

Hammer , sharpening stone, oil, watch the video still can't get this $60 punch a slot in 5oz leather.

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Got a good solid backing? I like a 2x4 on the concrete floor. Once you get that punch sharp it'll be nice, shouldn't have to totally rework it but unfortunately you probably will......

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Osborne is last on my list of tool manufacturers, they don't sharpen anything they sell and they don't have any customer support when you have a problem with their product.

Not saying I wouldn't purchase another Osborne tool but only if I can't find another supplier for it first.

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It seems to be high price for me to have to learn how to sharpen before I can even use their tool.

I got it to the point it will punch through after 4 strikes with the 45oz dead blow poly mallet.

Should it be a one blow punch

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It will sharpen, I've sharpened my fair share of Osborne punches.

One of those little emery bits from dremel will speed up the process.

Touch up the inside as well as the outside of the punch.

Once I get them sharp I use a buffing wheel to keep them that way.

You'll be forever trying to get an edge on them with a stone.

For a base I use poly board on top of granite.

Edited by Tree Reaper

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thanks Tree Reaper, Im using a Tandy I/4" rubber cutting matt on top of a 12x12 granite that sits on top of a granite table top

could you tell me more about sharpening with the dremel

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You can use the tip of the emery on an angle to to touch up the inside, emery paper or a smaller diamond bit but you really need to get the burr off that develops on the inside from sharpening the outside.

The dremel emery will put a nice polish on it.

dremel.JPG

post-19342-0-43887800-1394970028_thumb.j

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How much "give" is in the face of a poly hammer striking something with as small a diameter as a bag punch? I wonder if you're losing energy there? Always wondered how well those would transfer energy, the faces seem soft to me. Brass is nice for punches. Also best to punch holes over a leg too, I have a granite kitchen table and won't punch any holes on it, fear of cracking the wifes table.

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I was thinking that too but 45oz. is a pretty good weight.

I've had problems with every one of those punches , they take quite a bit of work to get them close to cutting.

J, if you crack that table don't even stop to pack, just get out and don't stop running for at least two days.

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J, if you crack that table don't even stop to pack, just get out and don't stop running for at least two days.

Hahaha yeah no kidding!!!!!!

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the table is a small granite top work table out in the garage, so Im cool,

The reason I got the Osborne punch was I had first ordered bag punch from Goods Japan. but got impatient after 5 weeks. Goods said they were sorry must be held up in customs. I canceled the order and they refunded me. I had got a strap end punch from Goods Japan last year came 2 weeks and is still sharp today. the Goods Japan punch came friday I was going to send it back, but decided to give it a try last night. very sharp tool, it cuts a SLOT. blows the Osborne punch away.

Ill buy the goods japan punch and get back to making my belt slots. I still interested in learning how to keep a sharp edge on my tools.

I ve got the Osborne to practice on. don't know if I can return it since its been worked on.

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It's an additional expense but once you acquire a good edge a buffing machine is a quick way to touch it up.

I bought an 8" Enco buffer and I use it every time I'm doing leather work.

It takes seconds to get a good edge back on punches and knives.

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Whatever route you use to sharpen be very watchful not to get the piece hot and take the temper out. keep a container of water handy and dip frequently. DO NOT let the metal change color. That said, the next time you are shopping for an edged cutting tool consider the Master line from Weaver. They will come sharp. I punch with an 8 lb maul on a poly board on a 6" piece of granite on a solid steel stand and I have to be careful not to hit my Weavers too hard or they will cut clear through the poly. On the other hand I can whack most Osbornes to my heart's content. And some I sharpen while others I keep a little dull, depending on their predominate use.

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Thanks for the "Good Stuff" keep it comin

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Whatever route you use to sharpen be very watchful not to get the piece hot and take the temper out. keep a container of water handy and dip frequently. DO NOT let the metal change color. That said, the next time you are shopping for an edged cutting tool consider the Master line from Weaver. They will come sharp. I punch with an 8 lb maul on a poly board on a 6" piece of granite on a solid steel stand and I have to be careful not to hit my Weavers too hard or they will cut clear through the poly. On the other hand I can whack most Osbornes to my heart's content. And some I sharpen while others I keep a little dull, depending on their predominate use.

A 8 Pound Maul?

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A 8 Pound Maul?

I use a 4 lb 10 inch handle drilling hammer. And yes, i use a steel hammer on my punches. If you hit straight, they don't mushroom as much and a little grinding will take care of it when it gets out of hand every couple months/years.

I don't, however, do it like you sissys do. I just put the leather on my thigh and flex, harder than granite.....Clean punch every time.

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I've got Oblong Punch Sharpening blues too. Inexpensive Chinese punches... appear to be hardend only on the inside, using a wet grinder every time I get close to a decent edge it chips somewhere.

To protect all my chisel punches I use the end grain of a 4x4 block of pine. Clean it up with your band or table saw when it gets too ate up.

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