rawcustom Report post Posted March 18, 2014 I got mine off ebay, although there were plenty that would have worked. The 2 things I looked for was a chuck that would take up to .125" and a head with flats for a wrench. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greenbarn Report post Posted March 18, 2014 Really nice work! Please post picture of blades as you make them. I would be happy to buy some blades when you are happy with the design. I am wondering where you bought the pin vice? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rktaylor Report post Posted March 18, 2014 I think I found the one you used. I ordered one from musicwire.com. Randy The correct site is www.musicmedic.com. I just checked and the maximum diameter is 0.1 inch. We'll see how it works. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted March 18, 2014 And what would be some of the materials available and their relative prices? I would think that just good, straight grained walnut would be fine. Wish I knew where you could get the chucks without having to buy the speedy stitcher but I don't recall ever seeing them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawcustom Report post Posted March 18, 2014 http://www.ebay.com/itm/SE-Pin-Vise-Double-Mouth-Reversible-Chucks-0-1-8-/181130722227?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2c3b7bb3 That is the pin vise I got, and then cut it in half. Handle wood can be anything. I have a few knife suppliers I use as well as some local sellers. Ebay has a lot of choices as well but you better know what you're looking at and what to expect. There are many woods that won't work unless properly stabilized and many on ebay are labeled 'stabilized' but aren't. Basically if you are buying stabilized scales or blocks for less than $25 you can bet they aren't truly stabilized. For this project, stabilized isn't required on all species. Walnut would be fine, as well as many other hardwoods, Maple, Hickory, Rosewood, Ipe, etc. A run of the mill, non-stabilized piece will be cheap, and boring to look at, but functional. This one I built from scraps in my inventory, but if purchased would've been likely about $20. I would charge $60 to make one from non-stabilized wood, $90 from stabilized wood, and it could be much more if you want carbon fiber or mammoth ivory, or some other exotic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawcustom Report post Posted March 18, 2014 To be clear on my pricing those are estimates for the more average materials. Some species can cost substantially more and would be reflected in the end price. Here's some good examples: http://www.ebay.com/itm/knife-scales-desert-ironwood-burl-lumber-exotic-wood-pistol-grips-/310896822882?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4862e50a62 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honduran-Rosewood-Burl-Pistol-knife-Scales-46-x-1-65-x-5-25-HRB1571-/310832587525?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item485f10e305 And this is a good example of where you would get burned: http://www.ebay.com/itm/WOODEN-STABILIZED-BLACK-PALM-KNIFE-SCALES-GUN-GRIPS-2-x-4-x-1-2-R6-/400671639133?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d49e4065d The first two are going to be usable, the last is balsa wood at best and if you want to use it you will need to contract with a professional stabilizing service and drop another $15-$20 before you can start. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scootinnc Report post Posted March 23, 2014 Sign me up and take my money! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted March 24, 2014 Me too. Send me instructions for payment Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scootinnc Report post Posted April 25, 2014 Well, I have received my custom made awl handle and blade and have to say that I am very impressed by the quality and detail in this new tool from rawcustom. Once I figure out how to post a picture on here, I will do just that. I cannot recommend him enough, and I love my new tool. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hi Im Joe Report post Posted April 25, 2014 Thought I would post some pics if anyone is interested. Finished product. How much to make me one? If you are even interested. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAM Report post Posted May 15, 2014 Very helpful, thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawcustom Report post Posted May 16, 2014 You can buy tool holders from metal engraving and jeweler suppliers for under 10 bucks that will hold an awl blade tool handle.jpg And you can spend $75 on a Douglas handle as well, and from what I've read it's a good investment. But really why spend $10 when you can just wrap an awl blade in $1 worth of duct tape? Did you consider that option, or perhaps finding a branch, drilling a hole and $0.10 worth of elmers glue you have another handle. In short your post is not enlightening or helpful to this thread. I have listed my components and what they will cost and some would rather invest in a quality tool than the cheapest chicom alternative available. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hennessy Report post Posted June 28, 2014 i have seen a bunch of mex saddl mkrs make awls out of phillips screw drivers [i'm sure they heat treated them] even had one given me long blade n was good on binders but was'nt able to stay straight . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glennaycock Report post Posted June 29, 2014 For anyone interested in making their own micro-tools cheaply, including chisels and awls, I buy music wire from local hobby shops, where it is commonly sold for control rods and such for a few $ a stick in various diameters. They are high-carbon steel that is easily cut, worked and hardened with modest tools and a blow torch. You can flatten a rod by heating and hammering it on an anvil or other hard steel object, or use a grinder or sander to rough shape before hardening. Otherwise you might overheat and ruin the temper. To harden, heat the tip using a blow torch until bright orange for a couple minutes. Then quench in oil (I use olive or vegetable) -- this helps with rust. I'm not sure if it's necessary to temper such small items that aren't subjected to high breaking stresses. Sometimes I heat them in a toaster oven for a few hours, also in oil to stabilize and distribute the heat.. Finally, use a wet stone or water wheel to sharpen. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robertmeco Report post Posted June 30, 2014 I have had one of rawcustom's awls for a while, I really like the way it fits the hand it works very nicely Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawcustom Report post Posted June 30, 2014 I'm not sure if it's necessary to temper such small items that aren't subjected to high breaking stresses. Sometimes I heat them in a toaster oven for a few hours, also in oil to stabilize and distribute the heat.. If you are getting a proper quench while heat treating, the blades will be too brittle to use without tempering. If you're blades are not brittle after the quench = failed quench. This could be from soaking temp, quench oil used, quench oil temp, quench technique, steel used and any combo of them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
St8LineGunsmith Report post Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) I make my awl hafts out of old drum sticks(good hard hickory) and I once made a diamond blade out of a large sheet rock screw which penetrates leather better than any awl blade I had until I bought a John James blade which penetrates the leather as goodas the one I made. if you are looking for a good comercial awl blade get one of the smaller John james blades they ate 100 times better than the tandy or osborne blades. Edited June 30, 2014 by St8LineGunsmith Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayner123 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 I make my awl hafts out of old drum sticks(good hard hickory) and I once made a diamond blade out of a large sheet rock screw which penetrates leather better than any awl blade I had until I bought a John James blade which penetrates the leather as goodas the one I made. if you are looking for a good comercial awl blade get one of the smaller John james blades they ate 100 times better than the tandy or osborne blades. How are you attaching the John James blade to the haft? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
St8LineGunsmith Report post Posted July 1, 2014 drill a hole the depth needed then cement the blade in place with JB weld. after the JB weld cures the blade aint coming out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayner123 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 drill a hole the depth needed then cement the blade in place with JB weld. after the JB weld cures the blade aint coming out. Thanks. Do you use a ferrule? And if so, what and how do you use? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
St8LineGunsmith Report post Posted July 2, 2014 no just the cement Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tat2 Report post Posted July 7, 2014 Wow maxing work? Thought I would post some pics if anyone is interested. Finished product. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
St8LineGunsmith Report post Posted July 7, 2014 post em up Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted July 8, 2014 Just realized that i have emailed rawcustom but have not posted so here goes. I ended up getting two. I have huge griz paws and the first was small so he made me another, larger one. I kept the small one for use with a smaller blade. The larger one is super. Everytime I pick it up I am aligned the same. I have seven awls on my bench instead of changing blades. If I had more money, I would replace the other five with the large size, too but as they are only picked up once in awhile and my two most oft used are now rawcustoms, I am content. Rawcustom was great to work with, even during the time that I would have been a total ?. The awaiting and enjoying the birth of a son. Pleased to meet you, Raw Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawcustom Report post Posted July 9, 2014 Thanks for the compliment Chuck, and I'm glad that awl is finding some service in your leatherworking. And it's a good thing I cleared the board before my boy arrived, since there has been a drastic, but enjoyable decline in my available time. I'll try to return the favor by pushing all of my cowboy cousins in your direction next time they're looking at saddles and tack. I say try, because you never know where a cowboy will end up spending his money... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites